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Everything posted by gareth001

  1. I did look long and hard into using a used box from a newer Monte Carlo or a Jeep. The two reasons I didn't was - uncertainty if it was a rebuild the reliability and second the Borgeson like Lee, upgrades the valve weight - so not only is it quicker lock to lock, but gives it more of a manual feel as more effort is required. Lee gives a good explanation here. Of course, I've not driven yours so I can't compare and depending on what car your box is from you may have similar feel to the Borgeson also.
  2. Having never driven a 60's/70's american car before purchasing my Monte, I didn't know what to really expect from the steering, I knew it was going to be vague and I knew it wasn't going to be like driving a Lotus or (insert best handling car you have driven here). So my first upgrade to the Monte has been an upgraded steering box. After much research I went with the new-ish Borgeson 800 (part no. 800130 - $445.50 from JEGS) - I honestly couldn't see what I was getting by going with the Lee Power Steering for $200 more . If you don't know this is a direct replacement to the OEM, and comes with the fittings for either O-ring or flare-style. Along with this I also needed: High and low pressure hoses Duralast Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly 70255 - from Autozone for about $22 Duralast Power Steering Return Hose - from Autozone for about $15 Rag Joint - JEGS has their own which you will need to un-bolt the steering column connection if you have the OEM steering column - part number 555-607050 for about $45 Power Steering Fluid - I used Lucas Oil Products Power Steering Fluid 32oz - from Autozone for $7. The tools I needed which are not in the "stocking filler tool kit" were: Tie Rod And Pitman Arm Puller - I got mine from Harbor Freight for $16. I think you can borrow these for free from parts stores also. 1" 5/16 socket (to remove the pitman arm OEM nut from the steering box) 32mm socket (to put on the nut that comes with the Borgeson box 1ft of fence post (I used this to stop the steering from turning from side to side when removing or replacing the pitman arm) and/or willing friend/wife neighbor etc. I found this video by A1 auto showing the job on a GTO - but it's the same process. It was a great help as it also listed out all the torque specs (saved fumbling through the Haynes manual). Although the rag joint was not mentioned in either the video or the Haynes manual and depending on the different sources I found, it ranged from between 22-30 ft/lb. I went to very tight by hand with blue lock tight. The results? Very happy - the suspension is still very soft and boat like (which I'll improve later) but the steering wheel now actually feels connected directly to the wheels and not via a rubber band. I'm sure a rack and pinion setup would have improved it again some more - but for 3-4 times the cost, I don't think you would get 3-4 times better steering response and feel. For a road car that's not going to be raced and for an OEM look, for me this was the way to go for around $540 in parts.
  3. Thanks - got it off and the new hose back on. Final test is when it's all plumbed back up and it doesn't leak... BTW - it's a 1" nut
  4. Trying to remove the high pressure power steering line from the pump and there's a larger nut that's turning instead of undoing the high pressure line. It's larger than 7/8", as that's the largest wrench I have - any idea what it is, the hose is standard fitment. As this nut is loose, is it a case of just tightening it back up, or is it something that shouldn't come loose and requires a new steering pump? BTW it was leaking from this connection, I didn't pinpoint it until I had taken the power steering box off, as I'm upgrading it.
  5. It would make sense - wanted to confirm before I take an angle grinder to the frame
  6. Trying to figure out why the clutch rod from the pedal catches on the firewall at the top - I figure this bracket is mounted incorrectly. It's been welded onto a raised bracket - I thought this should be bolted directly to the frame on a '72?
  7. Been here 5 years, my accent hasn't changed - only the use of different words.
  8. More pictures - these were from the add - I've not had chance to take my own yet
  9. I don't believe it's an original 4 speed '72 - from my decoding of the protect-o-plate (JA221) it comes back as a TH350 and was converted at some point to a 4 speed.
  10. Hi, Just got around to joining this forum. I got myself a '72 Monte just before Christmas - a 350 with a 4 speed muncie. Plan on making it a bit of a retro mod - upgrading the steering over the next couple of weeks. I'm in Austin TX, but originally from the UK.
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