Lou

When you turn the key, any sound at all, like a click? Or a metal to metal sound? Or nothing?

Started bleeding brakes working farthest away to closest. I'm using my Mighty Vac and developing good pressure but it doesn't seem like I'm pulling enough fluid through the lines, any of them. I'm obviously pulling some as I have been keeping the master topped off but at 15-20 psi that fluid should be flowing. The only things I can think of is a blockage in the combination or proportioning valve. ??

Holy crap, I actually fixed (maybe) something in the wiring. While working on the brakes I noticed the wire on switch on the combination valve had been pulled/chewed off. Spliced a new price of wire in temporarily and I have continuity. Still investigating the instrument panel issues but when I come across something and I'm confident, I have to fix it.

They certainly will. Thank you.

Thanks, I'll try.

Tried to upload a video but it won't load. I'm not tech savvy.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot. Funny you mention the dome light..... I cleaned the door jamb switch and... viola! It now works. Will try the same with the headlight switch.

I did not check for ground at dash. I have wiring diagrams but thy might as well be in Portuguese. I guess it's about time to learn a new language.😒

My least favorite part of classic cars (for lack of knowledge) is electrical.: FYI, fuses are all good. Symptom: No instrument panel lights. ( I have dome light, headlights, turn signals) Problem: Took dash pad off and found the following. Which is connected to this: Which is semi-connected to this by black wire with white stripe: And this was connected to whatever connection (same color wires and connection fits) is behind the radio that's not there: Where do I start?

Oops. Neither did I. Is that a bad thing?

Running non-ethenol out of gas can.

Two stops. Front and rear. Both are adjusted all the way down. Only way to gain more room is to remove neoprene stops or possibly extend slots in stop brackets. I'll need to remove one to be positive.

Thank you.

Yes, I saw one but I wasn't about to mess with it until I spoke to someone who knows. Just have to remember to make sure the window doesn't roll up to far when I'm done......cause that would suck if I shut the door and have to clean up shattered glass. I don't know if the stop is bi-directional. Thanks.

It seems my window doesn't roll down far enough to allow access to the screws for the felts. Does the window need removed or are there stops that are just out of adjustment?

Better pic since the sun actually decided to reveal itself:

Done. Refurbished it, bled it, tried to pressurize it, let it sit for a day or two in the vise. No leaking yet. Time (and pressure when I bleed the system) will tell......

How thick have you guys found the factory paint?

Would be great, some day. But I still have some work to do before I take it out in the elements. It sat in my driveway for years with a pos car cover ( read, vinyl top/roof skin damage) because my Chevelle was in the garage and my son lost interest and didn't take good care of it. I just brought it into the garage last fall and have been working on it sporadically through the winter. It's in good hands now.

Because of no experience, I didn't want to go real aggressive so all I did was exfoliate with comet cleanser and water, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 2, then Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, and then a coat of Eagle One Nano Wax. I did a couple test areas first. One area I did on the deck lid (that will need a playing card size patch anyway) I wet sanded with 1200 grit then polished and it came out like a mirror. Not bad for 52 year old single stage paint that's probably thin and brittle, in my lack of experience opinion.

I don't know. It's what I have and I'm not a quitter. Anybody can buy new and bolt it on. My wife thinks I'm nuts also because I rebuilt our over the range microwave that's 25+ years old. Works like new and built better than anything out there today. I enjoy it. Just weird I guess.

FYI: Useful tip. At least when a man has a 'junk drawer' and needs three hands, he can put 'junk' to good use:

Original engine is long gone. Originality is no goal for me with this one. That said, I bought the rebuild kit on Amazon for $23. Would have loved to go down to the local O'Reilly's to purchase but the same kit from Dorman there was $50. I'm sure at a later date I'll be purchasing a master and booster assembly but not at this time. Thanks everybody for helping on this issue.

Denatured alcohol or acetone, right?

Ran my gun cleaning kit through it with scothbrite pad and wd40. I'm seeing pitting on the bore. I think its beyond honing. Almost looks like a bad casting, like sand pits.