GraniteGuy88

Its a good day guys. Changed the oil to rotella 10-40. All the clacks knocks and rattles went completely away. It had really runny oil in it. Also found out why the new carb didnt feel right. The throttle cable assembly was too far forward not letting the pedal give the throttle full gas. What a couple knuckle head mistakes. Also MC1of80 should get a kick out of this.... The fan you had repeatedly said I should remove before loosing a finger.. In the middle of reading the instructions about tuning the choke I fired it up and watched the paperwork get sucked into the fan and obliterated. I laughed my [censored] off. Tightened a few of the bellhousing bolts. Got rid of the rolling vibrations over 40. Temperature hangs around 220-230ish. 205-215 cruising. Took about 5.5 quarts to get good on the stick.

Never really messed with timing. Extent of my timing experience is loosening the distributer and slightly turning. That was in a 79 351 and a 69 slant 6. Same principal apply?Never messed with actual timing chains n such. Ive heard horror stories about peoples timing belts\chains. You think the head rattle could be timing related. Use to have diesel sounding knock/rattle coming from passenger rear head. I tuned the rocker bolts. Passenger side sounds way better but driver rear now does it worse. Its not so much on acceleration. More of idle. speed\neutral\decelerating it clacks. Once it heats up you can hear it pretty good sitting still in drive. Pics of when doing it last time.

I adjusted the floats. They were factory 70% filling sight glasses. Now they both sit about 47%. Turned down factory idle buy set screw under electric choke. Then by idle screw near throttle Also adjusted choke. Didnt touch the ratio screws. Its a 180' thermostat. I havent did much with timing.

The electric fan is still working. Put a 30 fuse instead of the 25 that was in it and havent had a problem since. The car definitely sounds better starting and idling. Reasoning and idea behind the 670 was to get a proper working carb. Its weird to me the new bigger cfi carb feels like it has less "balls" to say. I Didnt expect it to melt tires or anything but i did expect atleast the same umph as the silicone mess of a carb that was on it. Maybe just needs tuned? Just went to replace thermostat and there wasnt one in it. I put a new one in it with new gasket. Also straitened out a kink in the like 4" water line connecting the waterpump and intake. I bought the stuff for a oil change. No one could tell me at the parts stores exactly how many quarts or specific type. After google I ended up with 10w-30 6 quarts and 1 quart of Lucas stabilizer. Plan on doing the oil tomorrow if that sounds right also connecting my oil pressure gauge since it says the port is above the oil filter. The oil in it now seemed really thin when i adjusted the rockers. Little dirty also.

Well guys I finally bought a new carb. The old one was a 650cfm. Alot of you guys suggested a 750 or up. Im just a cruiser. I ended up getting a 670cfm Holly. Its gotta be better I am horrible at adjustments and fairly new to Big engines. Once everything was put on it came factory set to 1200rpm idle. Finally got the idle to around 700-800rpm. It runs decent but seems like it lacks a little when driving. Still have a rolling vibration under car anything 45+. Also before the new carb my temp hung around 160-180F. Now its getting up around 200-210. Just bought a new thermostat Im about to put on. Whats average running temp on a 454. Pretty sure its mostly stock except headers,intake and carb. Also special thx to a few of you guys who have really helped throughout the process of getting it running decent. Did rocker arm adjustments while running. Loosen til tic, quiet tick +1/4turn. Now im noticing when it heats up i can hear a couple arms ticking. So ill be trying to quiet those down tomorrow also. Just a update. Thx guys. William

The carb is on the top of the list. Ive been tempted to buy a off brand for alot cheaper but wanna keep it OG. Just waitin for a good check. I understand that could be the reason for a ton of the lil issues driving me nuts. I tuned the rockers yesterday as we discussed. A few were really tight, more than 2 whole turns. Car runs decent. Turned up the idle to 750ish. Speed odometer id way off. Got on a 55-60mph rd and was keepin up with traffic with little issue. Theres a surging sketchy vibration under the car when its 45+. That intensifies the faster you go. Driveshaft has a lil turn slop but doesnt wiggle. In my mind its something rotating thats off balance. Cant wait to get a new carb.

UPDATE: You guys were absolutely right about the vacuum lines. Swapped them and now the transmission shifts great. Finally got the Title and Blue Tag. Yay. Hooked up a Tac and small gauge cluster. Temp hangs around 150. Tac idles at 600 and rides casual around 1100-1800. In third going a guestimated 55ish it hits around 2400+rpm. When I let off the gas I feel drag anywhere 50ish+. Romping on it it gets up around 3600 before I just dont wanna push it and it feels pretty fast. I also notice a slight tap/knock from passenger side head near firewall. Its loudest when letting off the gas and pretty sporadic. Ive seen several youtube videos of people adjusting 454 rocker arms running by sound. Loosen til tap the tighten quiet +1/4 turn. Kinda like a on n off diesel knock from just that section. Idles good but under load while decelerating it rattles a lil. Here some more pics of the car and of the passenger side head.

Side note: its sits pretty low and has NO effect when a 300lb man sits in it. It rides hard. I cant picture that 75yo lady driving this daily like this.

I will take a clip from startup to finish tomorrow and pray it uploads. I goosed it one time just to see. One of them now or nothing moments and from a stop 6oish% pedal and it squatted pretty hard and went through first and second in just a few seconds but third... Felt like 90mph rmp only going 45. I can only imagine one i get the new carb. The vacuum you mentioned, would it have a effect on shifting? Because it feels like the speed maxs out at 55. Or Id be afraid to push it past 45 or so not knowing the rev limit or having a tac. Put it like that.just felt the engine rom didnt justify the speed.

So i have a game plan. Either way I drove it for the first time today. Ran great, very responsive. Brakes are a little hard. Turns easy but turns like a RV. Only thing I worried a lil about or thats weird to me is the shifting. Drove it 2x. First time acted funny about shifting in and out of third. Needs a transmission pan gasket change. Slow leak. Second trip. Topped off fluid and air in the tires. Shifted alot smoother but it sounds like its winding out in third and im guessing im only going around 40-50. I wasnt exactly trying to push it though. It doesnt have a tac and I think the speed odometer is a lil crazy. It just shifts really fast but youre not going really fast. In third going 55mph whats a typical Rpm? It needs a revamp fluid/filter change. I also fixed the fan/fuse and its working way better than expected. Someone suggested taking the fan off the front. Would it still have adequate cooling with just the electric fan? Is there any other advantage beside saving fingers? Also have a wettish rear pumpkin. Need gasket. And that damn PW steering pump changes tone with every shift. Someone said it would get annoying. It did. Anyways. Just a update for u guys. Ty guys for all the help. William.

Well thats all a little disheartening. Lets say... I got it "vin checked" then unfortunately my vin tag got damaged.. I would have the certification. Could i get a replacement vin? Asking for a friend... Cough cough..

Ironic is the first statement of the previous reply lol. Just went to transfer title. Had to get a Officer to come out to verify vin. It was a Pa title. I live in Fl. After the first 7 numbers it doesnt match the title. He tried looking up the vin and nothing comes up. He said he believes the vin looks authentic and the title doesnt appear fraudulent. Titles from previous owner from 1994. Then 1976 before that. He even said the Pa inspection stickers look authentic. He told me he was lost on what to do as well. He didnt even want to question the Po, my neighbor which was home, he thinks its a typo but really had no clue what action to take and reffered me to ask you guys. All magic comes with a price lol. So Im open to suggestions. Thx William

I was expecting to see maybe some shavings of scarring. Maybe even a lil sludge. Nothing. I did notice the harmonic balancer doesnt seem off balance its self but the crank belt pulley has a wobble while running. Power steering pump has a constant faint wine. Electric fan has a inline fuse thats blown. Just wondering what u guys can say about it now that you can atleast see the head. Thx. William. This was a message i apparently nvr sent. When i sent the other 20210127_155559.mp4

20210127_172302.mp4 20210127_172302.mp4 20210127_172302.mp4 20210127_172302.mp4

Seeings as my carb has been compromised does it appear I would still have the necessary linkage to hook up a proper Carb such as said one. Im also looking to replace the air filter and inline fuel filter. I dont mind paying a little more for a significant diff in performance. I also care not about fuel efficiency.

Told the wife Im spending 380. On a new carb. She said well if im going to ride in it I dont want it breaking down.. Id say permission granted from that statement 😄. So Yay, so you guys would unanimously agreed the previously recommend carb would be the best bet? This weekend Im taking off those valve covers and checking out the insides. Just a worry wart about clacking since I previously had a oil pump slowly die on a 5.4 ford.

Also the oil is full and looks brand new. The spout line and dipstick are new too from what it appears.

I respect blunt! Its hard looking online for something you dont know much about. The prices just vary so much. I seen 750\800cfm carbs ranging from 350.00 to like a grand. Anyone could recommend a specific carb for a justified price that would be great. I have general mechanic skills. When I was growin up if it broke you fixed it.. Best ya could.. Worked on GE Mac70 Locomotives for a couple years also. Im assuming I can figure out swap the carb. About the overall sound, should i be able to distinctly hear what i would think of in my mind as rocker arms or lifters clacking the whole time? But like in perfect rhythm with a random seldom out of tune clack. Is there ant way to tell what work has been done to it without tearing into it?

I cant get the videos to load up right😠best I can do right now is some stillshots in carb. Think they sealed off half the carb. It Idles feels like its running HARD, . Like a tractor hard. Like the rocker arms are loud. I gave it a quick Qtr throttle by hand expecting a idle up.. Like a wind up but it was Immediate load high rpm. When I put it in gear it idles down significantly though. Also in the process of cleaning it up. Took a good back of car pic and a interior pic now that i can fit in there. Im 6'1 280lb man. This guy had bolted the bucket seats almost to the dash. I moved the driver seat back to a more comfortable position. The passenger is still way foward. Anyway. Let me know what you guys think. And i cant figure out how to remove the failed videos. Disregard.

the excited fat guy breathin. Front right tire is leaking at the bead... Was in a hurry😊

20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4 20210125_162835[Trim].mp4