jja

Had the 70 MC in the repair shop for a tuneup because it seemed to idle rough. After performing all the basic tests and adjustments, car still ran rough. Mechanic compression tested the cylinders and 7 of 8 were within 15-20 lbs of each other but No. 5 was 80 lbs. off others. Engine has 162k miles on it. Better to do a valve job or wait a until I can afford to rebuild engine or buy a new engine? Leaning towards a valve job now because of costs but will ultimately (2-3 yrs.) decide to have engine rebuilt. Prefer to keep original engine nos. matching. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the suggestions. It is all original including Quadrajet and points and condenser. Have been thinking about replacing points/condenser with HEI. Anyone have a good suggestion for that conversion that doesn't change outward appearance? Also, what would I be able to change if the compression test of the cylinders shows a difference?

Am thinking about having the 350 sb tuned up. Seems to idle rough. New spark plugs (any particular brand ?). Still has original points. I assume the timing will need adjusting. Anything else you guys recommend?

How do I identify the type of radiator I have in my 1970 car. It is a 350 V-8 4 barrel carb. with factory AC. Is there a part number somewhere stamped on the unit? Any common obvious traits? I am considering either getting it rodded out and pressure tested or getting a new aluminum one that is a direct fit. How would I measure it to determine width and other size?

Problem fixed. It was the flasher underneath the steering column. Thanks for the help.

My parking brake pedal seems kinda loose to the extent that it does not retract enough to turn the red brake light off when not depressed. Is this adjustment to the brake pedal near the fuses or do I have to get under the car (ugh!) and tighten some sort of cable?

Interestingly, the four way emergency flashers do not blink fast. They blink at the usual speed. I replaced the flasher near the fuses with a flasher that the Autozone guy said would work.. He referred to it as a thermal flasher, as opposed to an electronic one. Is one type preferred over the other? And is the one near the steering column similar to the one near the fuses? Just want to make sure I know what to look for.

Didn't know about the other flasher on the steering column. Where exactly and how to replace? BTW, the turn signals on both sides flash fast.

Common problem I suspect. I think they are too fast but don't know for sure. Changed the flasher with the old style thermal flasher but no difference. None of the bulbs are burnt out but I am pulling each one, cleaning the socket and replacing. Any other ideas?

The contacts between the switch and the wire plug just needed a little filing. Thanks for all your help. I especially like the replies that get all technical.

My 70 MC came with the power door lock option. However, the locks do not open/close using the switch on the driver's side. They both open/close using the switch from the passengers side. Because the solenoids both work but only from the passenger's side, I am assuming the drivers side switch is bad. I took the switch off to bench test it with an tester that has the black and red leads and that you can test ohms, volts, etc. The back of the switch has two prongs that I connected the back and red leads to and then pressed the switch to see if the needle moved. It did not. Attaching the leads to the wire from the doors shows current (the needle moved). Can the switch be bad? Any use in taking the switch apart and trying to clean/repair it? Am I on the right track?

Thanks for all the advice. I like to troubleshoot before i run out and buy parts. Cleaned the two ground wires near the radiator support. Low beam still didn't work. Took out bulb and attached it to the plug of the other side. Still didn't come on at low beam. Concluded it must be burned out high beam filament as suggested. New one costs about $5.00. Will buy and put in and hope that is the end of it.

I get the burnt out filament reply, but wondered if the light socket is not grounded properly, why would it still work at the high beam setting? I'm going to check both.

I'm sure someone has encountered this before so any easy answers are appreciated. My right front (passenger) healight does not work on low beam but does turn on when I step on the high beam switch. The left side light works as it should. First thought to diagnose is to switch the lisght bulbs to verify the pass. side bulb is/is not the prob. Then clean the connections, check fuse, etc. Any other ideas?