Tmac
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Posts posted by Tmac
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Ist time in a year and a half it moves under its own power again!!!! Thanks to everyone here for the advice and tech support couldnt have done it without the help!!!
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On 3/8/2024 at 10:09 PM, Jared Richey said:
The Fusick ones Fit PERFECT and way cheaper than the Metro. Yikes.
I did order the Fusick ones, cheaper and the shipping was 1/2 as much also.
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12 minutes ago, Blackhawk said:
If those are for a Chevelle the clips don't line up like the stock seal.
correct. i believe they only have 2 clips and i think the Monte has 3?
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20 hours ago, Blackhawk said:
The outer is being made: https://metrommp.com/rear_vertical_quarter_window_sealouter_7072_monte_carlo_cutlass_supreme_alp_5002q/
The inner is not currently being reproduced, but I'm working on getting Metro to make them.
Jst FYI Joes' link did lead me to a suitable replacement for the inners. Softseal SS-5023. First Place auto parts had them in stock. i think they are for a Skylark. Thanks for the help.
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3 hours ago, jft69z said:
The outers I picked up from Fusick when I did my car in 2020. They're for the Cutlass as well, but it appears they're a lot cheaper than what Metro is selling them for. Looks like I got them from their ebay store too. I don't know if the ones Metro makes are better/softer than what Fusick sells though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152659902704
The inners I got from SoffSeal. They're not an exact match for the Monte, but the only thing I could find that even worked. These only have 2 retaining clips vs. the 3 that were on my car. I did try to remove clips from my originals to install on the new seal, but it was a complete P.I.T.A. They will clip on the car as purchased though. The rubber section matched up real well to the originals, and they look/function fine on the car.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SFT-5023
or from the rest of the suppliers:
Note: SS-396 does say they fit 70-72 Chevelle & Monte (despite what I mentioned above about the clips), and they also fit Buick Skylark & GS. .
Thanks!
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17 minutes ago, Montemedic said:
Have you tried Konik’s Klassiks or The Parts Place? (810) 334-4162 or (630) 365-1800.
I am going to try koniks today. Joe gave me a link to the inners, now I'm just trying to get my best deal. i need a few other things so shooting for best shipping cost.
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1 hour ago, Blackhawk said:
The outer is being made: https://metrommp.com/rear_vertical_quarter_window_sealouter_7072_monte_carlo_cutlass_supreme_alp_5002q/
The inner is not currently being reproduced, but I'm working on getting Metro to make them.
what is everybody using for the inner seal?
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is there one that goes on the inside as well?
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On 3/6/2024 at 9:50 AM, Searsman said:
Update, good news , colonoscopy, NO polyps or colitis.. have a family history of that..
Great news! hate getting it done, but i'm still here because of it!!!
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I am trying to find these quarter window seals and and i don't really know what i am looking for (proper name i guess is the problem.)
if you can not tell from the pics, (horrible photographer) it is the rear outer quarter window seal. i am looking for them but not feeling confident with the little/poor pics provided on the sites im looking. tired of ordering and shipping twice to get the right part. Sooooo any help /part number/vendor would be appreciated..
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2 minutes ago, jft69z said:
I think there was only one spot to mount the switch on my POA manifold. The other available ports were for the temperature sense capillary tube, and the oil drain back tube. Basically, every available port had a specific purpose.
One pic of the top side, and a couple pics from the bottom:
Awesome pics! That's how I've got mine mocked up right now. My instructions said I could switch the charge port and cycling switch if I needed to make room. I'm gonna leave it just like yours. Thanks again!!!
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10 hours ago, jft69z said:
I didn't like how the one hose crossed over the engine either, though the stock hoses follow the same sort of path. My setup had a set of instructions, but for the most part they just tell you to route the hoses, mark the length & clock position of fitting to hose, and then get them crimped.
I ordered a longer length of hose and another fitting and made it run forward, under the core support, come out near the battery and then hook up as intended. It didn't make the hose length that much longer as to be a concern about charge capacity, or efficiency (I asked them).
The pics in this post will give you a rough idea what it looks like:
https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19368-new-guy-here/page/7/#comment-213101
You can see I rotated the compressor 90 degrees too, while still maintaining the proper orientation of the oil drain position as mentioned in the instructions, to keep the unit lubricated correctly.
As far as hose, yes, with R134A, it is suggested to get 'Barrier' hose. The 134 molecule is smaller than R-12, so the newer hoses have an inner barrier to contain the smaller molecule better. If you have any local radiator shops, or places that do A/C work, they'll probably crimp the hose for you vs. sending it back to the vendor to crimp as they offer. Technically, the crimpers should use the correct die for barrier hose too.
I think I got the hose from 'Auto Cooling Solutions' at the time, 9 feet of Parker Futura #10 barrier hose, and the new 90 degree, #10 fitting came from Original Air. (I chose this particular hose to match what came with my A/C system at the time, not sure if they use the same exact type now). I ordered the hose direct from them, but they even have an ebay store:
https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/products/10-ac-barrier-hose
Here is what I picked off my Original Air invoice for that new fitting:
Item: 14-2035 #10 Female O-Ring #10 BL90' $3.80
You have my number, call if you want to talk. 🙂
Thanks, I like how yours looks, really clean. Do your instructions say anything about the clutch cycling switch? It says it can go on either port on the POA eliminate but it doesn't say if you should remove the schrader valve from the port.
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I guess to add to this: is there a different style hose to use?
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I got my new A/C components this week and am test fitting everything. It is from Original air Group/Classic Auto Air looks like good stuff and i have heard good stuff about them at different shows and with talking to Joe. NO instructions and gotta wait for Monday for some other tech support, but i am not happy how my hoses, off the compressor, are routed and was wondering if anyone had any pics of how they did theirs? It just doesn't look good to me. also concerened about being able to tighten the compressor belt and , of course, keeping with the hose length i have. Thanks!
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2 hours ago, jft69z said:
Look here:
https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19368-new-guy-here/page/5/#comment-212258
As I also said on your FB post, when I asked about kick panel speakers a few years ago, someone here responded that they're great...if your ankles have ears. I didn't go that route.
lol! my head barely has ears soooooo.......
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44 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:
There is a speaker that will fit that left side, it was on another thread somewhere a while back. Hopefully someone else will chime in with the spects. It's a little smaller magnet I believe.
yeah that's what i need. kind thinking about just doin kick panels and being done. i dont know.
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I put my dash pad in my 70 today and i do not like the way it fits over the dash speakers. They are aftermarket 3x5 ish and set way to high and the drivers side i had to leave the dash out a little because the magnet pinches against the gauge cluster. ( i remember it was like this when i tore it apart and i half wondered why) so you can see the dash pad thru the windshield doesn't fit right. Thinking about eliminating these and putting in new kick panels with speakers in them. Any suggestions, problems, tips? it is a factory AC car.
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On 2/23/2024 at 7:53 AM, Leghome said:
I am one of those who used a bicycle inner tube and it has been on the car for 10 years. This is what is holding the chrome strip to the window and them the rubber strip is not held into the chrome by anything but a small tab on the rubber strip. That way they can be removed at a later date without any problem. Window urethane is a real pain in the arse to get removed.
On 2/22/2024 at 6:36 PM, willie said:Terrence he shot it out of a gun, did not roll it out. He shot it into the chrome collar and then inserted the glass, pushed the glass into the chrome for a min or so and then used a one sided razor to get all the excess off!
Hope this helps
On 2/22/2024 at 10:18 AM, Marks71 said:It sounds to me like if you’re looking for something that both seals and bonds the channel to the quarter glass, then Willie’s suggestion of black silicone window sealant is the way to go. Bond it, let it cure then trim any excess with a razor blade.
On 2/23/2024 at 2:19 AM, jft69z said:Doubtful it's silicone. More likely it'll be a window grade urethane.
So here is my solution: I did find an older auto glass place and they recommended the glass setting tape or the liquid glass setting stuff like willie suggested. I did try the inner tube idea but mine was way to thick. I did the whole measurement routine to find the tape thickness i needed and came up with 1/32. so i ordered these from Summit: Worked very well, good snug fit but didn't have to fight to hard. The 1/16 tape im going to use under the drip edge?? that holds the large window seal to seal it up to the roof.
Tip: my windows were already installed and i feel it would have been alot easier to put it on while the window was on the bench, then put the big rubber window seal on after the window was installed in the car.
Thanks for all the help and ideas!
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Congrats!! that's pretty cool honor!!!
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7 hours ago, willie said:
Terrence he shot it out of a gun, did not roll it out. He shot it into the chrome collar and then inserted the glass, pushed the glass into the chrome for a min or so and then used a one sided razor to get all the excess off!
Hope this helps
It does! i will search out a glass shop and see if i can purchase something like that from them.
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1 hour ago, willie said:
Hey Terrence, I think someone here had used a bicycle tube, and they were happy with it after they trimmed it. I myself just had the glass guy use black silicone, same stuff they use for the front and rear windshields.
Willie, is that the butyl tape your talking about or actual black silicone?
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any suggestions on a seal material that goes in the chrome channel between the chrome and the window itself? I have found rolls of glass setting tape but it seems that there are way to many different thicknesses to choose from! if anyone has used this stuff or has a better idea let me know. I was looking for the pre-molded channel that goes in there but i could only find it in a $90 set that includes the chrome trim and i don't need the chrome.
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On 1/27/2024 at 8:56 AM, 72-CLASSIC_RIDE said:
Hi Terrence,
There are 2 types of window felts for our Montes 1970-72. The window felts with the chrome bead is for a non-Belt Molding while the window felts without chrome bead are for the optional belt molding. I believe either will work but that chrome strip may interfere with the belt molding & reason for the difference.
Doug
I was wondering why the difference. i ordered the correct set and am much happier with these.
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1 hour ago, willie said:
Hey Terrence, i purchased a set from Lundys years ago and they did have the chrome on the outside. You should also check The Parts Place as the carry them also. They are both listed in the resourse section above.
Ok I'll take a look. Thanks!
Rocker moulding
in General Tech
Posted
Just a tip ya'll probably know but..... I ruined a set of rocker panel moldings using these spider looking clips on the right. Contacted Leo @Koniks Klassics to get a new set and he sent me these white plastic ones. Installed in minutes and they work great! Thanks Leo!!!