Joe Szabo

Hey, been awhile since I updated on the 71 SS project. Its on the road but still working through some electrical issues. I had the power windows and power seat working before the new carpet and headliner were installed. After the carpet and headliner install was completed the power windows/seat were not working. I quickly discovered the wire to the IGN connection on the fuse box was disconnected. I reconnected the wire and the power sea, it's now working but not the windows. Relay was not engaging but had 12V. I then discovered that if the key is in the ACC position the windows and seat work. The key was always very difficult to put into the ACC position, and now it's not going into the ACC position at all. One other symptom, when the IGN wire is disconnected from the fuse box, the key in the run position and I activate the power seat switch the power window relay engages but windows are not working and the seat is not working. I checked the seat and it is grounded. I'm thinking the ignition switch could be suspect. Post new pics next week. Your thoughts?

Yes they came with the car and has bucket seats. Long story but the car was totally disassembled 5 years ago by a some jerk who was to do a restoration. After money guns and lawyers were involved the care was moved to another shop that did not want to complete the resto because they did not disassemble it. So the they completed most of the work but the interior came back in boxes. We did determine the small belt buckles are the front lap belts and we have a complete set. Thanks to all who replied!!!

I have no male ends to fit the small buckles. Its going to be a garage queen so he wants to stick with stock. I have seen buckle parts for sale in some magazines. I would like to disassemble the buckles I have to clean and lube. How are the buckles disassembled?

That could be the case but there is no way to connect them to the shoulder belt. Also the console has the 4 buckle pockets.

No the do not fit the 3 rear male ends.

This configuration is for bucket seats. From left to right the first 2 are the shoulder. The next 3 would be the rear. The four buckles would be for the buckets. What are the last 2 for? I would believe we are missing the rear 3 buckles. Any help would be appreciated. Joe

We are now ready to install the interior and I have some questions about the seat belts.

That is correct.

The blower motor is only working on low and the third setting. From what I have read this could be the resistor or the switch. I did check the black to orange wire from the horn relay to the blower relay and it is not connected to the blower relay. When i removed the connector to the blower relay I discovered someone had replaced the connector and wired an external wire on terminal 3 that will reach the horn relay. This wire would carry the current but was connected to a much smaller wire at the blower relay connector and no inline fuse. Also all of the wires on the new connector are black. After I peeled back the tape for the new connector there was the purple, blue and orange wires. However the orange wire was the one going to the blocking dieseling relays as it is much smaller. The orange wire from the horn relay was not present. I peeled off some more of the wire loom and still no large orange wire. I could peel off a section evey foot or so to track it down or just put a external wire with a inline fuse. I do have the blower relay and a new connector on order. I did connect the existing external wire to the horn relay and still no blower high speed. Anyone know what the rating is for the inline fuse? I thought I read somewhere it is a 20 or 30 amp. Thanks in advance!!

A few more questions about the 71 MC attachment below. When comparing the 70 non AC MC to the 71 AC MC the 70 has the red wire on the left attached below the air box and close to the fender. The 71 already has a wire connected at this location. Is this the same situation, not used on a AC car? The other wire on the right in the pic was poorly extended about 3 feet and terminated with a lug that is not connected. I don't remember if I checked if it was grounded. Lastly, is this the AC/heater relay for a AC car. Again, thanks for all of support.

Thanks for the reply. This car has AC and the resister is located in the air box on the firewall. Maybe its the plug if the car has no AC?

Installed the Mylar PCB and changed all dash bulbs and sockets except for the temp gauge that has the fiber optic connection. When we removed the dash there were 3 wires attached to the same ground as the light switch located on the dash frame . From what I determined those wires were grounded already and 1 should be attached to the cluster and 1 to the E brake. Leaving 1 that I'm not sure where to connect. As of now the only dash light that is lit is the temp gauge ang it will dim as it should. Headlights, turn signals and high beams and lighter work correctly. Ordered the factory ground straps just to ensure frame, body and engine are properly grounded. Any help would be appreciated. A few questions. The connector below was not connected when the dash was removed. It is located left of the glove box. Any ideas?

Update, slowly working through the electrical issues. Dash is more than halfway out. The mylar PCB on the instrument panel is severely delaminated, new one should be here tomorrow. We have another dash and we be moving the cluster because the original dash was modified for an aftermarket radio/cassette player. Have a repo radio we will install. Keep you posted. Thanks for all of the support!

The head and brake lights are working and I did not find a ground wire on the bracket. Let me describe the symptoms with some new info. The engine will turn over with the key in the start position. With the key in the on or assy position. 1. None of the gauges are responding. Power windows are not working. Wipers are not working. 2. The horn and buzzer relay next to the radiator energizes as it should with the door open. 3. The metal frame under the dash has ground wires attached from the instrument panel. The metal frame is grounded to the body. Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thanks

So we did inspect the block code yesterday. Below is what we found after cleaning. When you magnify the photo it would appear some very faint numbers or letters are possibly there. Hopefully next month we will be ready for the new exhaust system to be installed. I will then check the transmission code when it is on the lift. Still chasing down some electrical issues. I have a thread open on the electrical forum and will post there. Again thanks for all of the info!!!

Thanks for the info!! Just got back form Cleveland OH. I was attending our state Loyal order of the Moose convention over the weekend. They did get the engine to turn over by adjusting the clutch neutral switch. Now we are waiting on the throttle cable as it was cut during the restoration. Should have the engine code in a few days. As far as the transmission code from the documentation that Joe T sent me the code is stamped on the right side of the casing. Can this be seen easily? Keep you posted. Thanks again Joe S

Hmm, really don't need the $25. I'm not trying to prove if its factory. As stated above there is no build sheet. The interior is gutted and being recovered. I will check on the gas tank location and also see if the upholsterer finds any paperwork. More backstory on me. I was a CAD/CAM consultant and worked at most of the GM plants in Dayton in the 80's. In saw many prototypes and COPD vehicles that were one offs. I I'm just saying, just because you have not seen one it does not mean it does not exist. The GM COPD program still exists today. It allows special orders for certain folks in GM to places special orders. And believe me there were a lot of folks in Dayton that would qualify back in the day. I'm not saying this is a COPO car but who is to say its not? Again I just wan to get this beast running again after a lot of grief my friend suffered for the last 5 years. Question I have provided Hemmings documentation that contradicts what was posted on this thread. Is there any documentation to dispute this?

LOL I didn't join to determine if the car is factory correct. And no the car is not mine. I have done some of my own research with Hemmings and this is what I found. From Hemmings online. They actually recommend this club as a good source of information. Is this information not correct? PRODUCTION Chevrolet built 145,976 Monte Carlos for 1970, including 3,823 SS 454s and 589 402/four-speeds. For 1971, total Monte Carlo production fell to 128,600 cars, including just 1,919 SS 454s and 349 examples with four-speeds. For 1972, the numbers rebounded to 180,819 Monte Carlos produced. The SS 454 was no longer offered in 1972, nor was a four-speed manual transmission, but 1,268 cars were built with 454s. Only 1,167 Monte Carlos with the column-shifted three-speed were built across all three years, making them rare, though not particularly popular. From Hemmings magazine. see the attachment. These two cars were owned by a person that worked at a GM dealership in Dayton Oh. At one time in the 60's and 70's Dayton had 7 GM plants, only Detroit had more. Perhaps this car was a COPO? I also agree that with no build sheet and the fact GM did not start to put engine codes included in the VIN until 1972 there is no way to verify that this is all factory. Also the engine is a LS6 as it was rebuilt with LS6 parts. Lets move on.

I forgot to mention that this SS454 has the LS6 engine with 425 HP. From what I know this is a rare car to have it mated to the 4 speed trans.

That was going to be our next step. We have a factory new dash to replace as the existing one has holes drilled in it. That would explain why all of the gauges are not responding when the key is in the on position. All of the grounds check good from the frame, body and engine. I forgot to mention that this SS454 has the LS6 engine with 425 HP. From what I know this is a rare car to have it mated to the 4 speed trans. Thanks Paul

Thanks Steve! Going to check it out this afternoon.

Can someone tell me where the factory ground connections should be? Engine to frame, frame to body.

The car was running and all gauges worked correctly 5 years ago.

I will start at the beginning. 5 years ago the restoration was started on the 71. After 3 years and with the aid of an an attorney the car was recovered in a disassembled state and was given to another shop to complete. The issues we have encountered so far are as follows. 1. Starter will not engage. We have jumped across the solenoid and it will turn over. Measuring the voltage at the solenoid at the terminal closest to the engine is 8 V DC when the key is in the start position. When turning the key to the start position the the horn buzzer relay clicks. The neutral start on the clutch was not physically or electrically connected. Tested the sw and mounted correctly to the clutch. None of the gauges on the dash are responding when the key is in the on position. Dash lights are also not working. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Joe .

Forgot to ask. Is the the starter relay in the engine bay?