502ci
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Posts posted by 502ci
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Great choice.
I have one on my Monte...502ci, TH400, Gear Vendors, and finally a 12 bolt with a Eaton Posi with 4.11 gears.
What gears are you running?
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Yeah, those tubes look odd. I see how they would hit and they hang way too low to be the correct headers for the car.
At least if you choose to replace them it is not like they are new...quite a bit of surface rust on them.
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Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!!!
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I also looked at your pictures thinking they were from the original poster, lol.
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Ok, I just now went out and looked at my headers and they say "Hooker Competition" like your photo and my tubes underneath "appear" to be similar in height to yours and my car looks close in ride height. I never hit my tubes but have scraped my header collector flange when I dropped in way down...maybe 2 1/2". I have since raised it back up and never scraped.
Are you saying you are scraping the "tubes" and not the "flange"?
Can you easily bounce your car up and down when pushing on the front bumper?
Do you have stock motor mounts? Just trying to see if maybe your motor itself sits lower, someone may have even installed solid motor mounts.
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I am gonna have to look at my headers when I get home. I do have a 2" primary tubes and a 3 1/2" collector. The ones I returned had a 2 1/8" primary.
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Been many years since I put my Hooker headers on my Monte but I recall them being full length "Competition" headers not "Super Competition". Doesn't the "Super" version have one of the primary tubes that is two piece on the driver's side?
If I remember correctly I bought that version for my big block but returned them for the "Competition" version because the fit was too tight.
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I always like the old school look with those wheels.
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I replaced mine with Moser.
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Sounds like the rain was not nearly as bad as a couple of years ago when we spent all of Saturday in the hotel breakfast area.
Not even close
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Got me beat...I got mine for a graduation gift in 1983
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I have my fans on a switch (same one that controls my trans cooler fan) so it is not controlled by the ignition, it is controlled by a temperature probe after the switch is on. When I turn the switch off the fans will run for maybe 2 minutes then automatically turn off. I do have separate over ride switch that I can turn them on anytime and keep them going
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One of my fears is catching on fire...I always carry a fire extinguisher in my cars.
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My electric gauge in my car is connected near the thermostat and my fan has a probe that slides in the radiator fins, it is located nearest where the hose leaves the radiator heading to the thermostat.
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This is a 72 Monte, and the hood has no issues
Hopefully this will help.
I agree that one would be fine...the one in the third picture posted was "over" the top of the radiator and then in front of the radiator which would never allow the hood closed. I can't seem to open the picture in that post now.
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An open element on top of the carb would be less hot than that one picture where it is directly in the flow of the radiator air which I assume there would be an electric fan blowing right on it.
I know it does not seem much further away but if you shoot a infrared thermometer where that one filter is and shoot it again towards the carb it would read cooler...this test would be with the car at operating temperature and the fans running.
On a side note (not suggesting you do exactly what I did) I played around with my intake system a while back and used my infrared thermometer trying to figure out the best cool air for my car. My conclusion for my car was to bring air from under the bumper via two ram air scoops and an enclosed air filter element. Eventually I put in a 6" inch tall (so it would stick two inches out) by 14" diameter filter and an open top style assembly. With my 4600 cfm fans my engine compartment is really not that warm. I also added a heat shield material under my assembly to further reflect heat.
Your hood would never close like in your last picture...no room to go over the top of the radiator.
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First one, no way...sucking hot radiator air.
Second one is better.
I will have to look at it from my laptop later for a better opinion.
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I have been looking at these hoods and the cowl looks closed in back. Has anyone opened it up for the added air flow or does everyone just paint it as is?
I can't dig through my car domain pictures right now but if you click one the links in my signature they will take you there. I have not reorganized my pages there in years and I noticed a while back Car Domain has jumbled mine all up so it will take a little looking through the mess to see my hood but I have a few pictures showing what I did to open it up.
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hey Donald, here are the brackets you have to get. Ask any questions, We are here to help.
Seeing those pictures gave me a flashback, I kinda remember putting a shim (1/4') square washer on one side of each seat to make them perfectly level with the car. You may not have to but even with a universal kit sometimes you have to improvise.
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Here's the seat I have...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-80-1000-51r
Like I mentioned it kinda feels tight on the thighs after about a half hour of driving but I can live with it. I will say these are secure seats for your body, they will hold you in place.
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I put ProCar seats in mine to replace my bench seat. Been quite a few years but they mounted right up from what I remember...maybe I ordered the universal brackets, I just don't remember.
I am using my phone so I can't reference the exact seat I bought but it is the sportier type with side bolsters. My driver seat always seemed tighter in the thigh area than my passenger seat. I figured it would loosen up as that seat would get the most use...not so, pretty much as stiff as the day I put it in, lol.
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Did any of you guys put some sort of power block or junction box under the dash so you don't have to run so many wires to the fuse panel? I have the Autometer UltraLite II (LED) gauges and they have 2 ground, 2 power, and a sender wire for each. I am going to run all of the grounds together to a solid ground under there. I am thinking of mounting a power distribution block or something to run all of the power wires to and then just feed that with one wire from the fuse block. Any thoughts?
I installed this Painless kit a while back and anytime I add something it makes it simple...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70107/overview/
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On a side note I have also seen other cars slowly just drive around the showfield and then just return to their area. Lots of room to move around.
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You can come or go as you please with your car parked at the show field, we do it all the time, most of us eventually bring our cars back to the hotel and return the next morning. I am pretty sure the hotel we stay at (Fairfield Inn) is dog friendly. I was even thinking about bringing my dogs at one point.
Gear Vendor O/D install with TH-400
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
Been so long since I installed mine but I used the stock cross member and used a sledge hammer to dimple some areas. Also I may have even spun it around backwards. I would have loved if they made an aftermarket one back then, it would have been much easier.