72Ragtop

I think last month I posted a part number for a Perfect-fit ,stick-on convex mirror. Don't have the number with me right now. It really does help keep an eye on that R.R. Qtr!

I used it on my rag top...you can also pull out the "fresh air/ recirculation door" system in the rite side kick panel(plug the vacuum hose that goes to it) and you can put in Kick panel floor vents from any non-A.C. A-body. I would suggest you use "better gasketing" than what came with mine. Don't over tork any of the mounting boult & nuts.

I got luck...found a "bolt-on-the-frame", Class III on craig's list for $50.00. Be sure and surch in el Camino listings or clubs, too!!!! Any local-area hitch shop should fab one up for under $300.00. I have friends with Fords and Mopars and it makes a great place to hook a tow-rope to.

I've used an 81 Camaro Z-28 (Specifically a Z-28!} in my last 4 cars (72 Monte RagTop, 69 Kingswood wagon, 70 Chevelle wagon & 70 Vista Cruiser wagon). Bolts right in w/ no hose fitting changes or issues...good ratio and a "not-as-light-feel". It ain't no Porshe rack & pinion, but it's an inexpensive and e-z first step. If it's not to your liking, it's an "E-Z sell" on craigs list. Don't forget to add big sway bars w/ non-rubber bushings...another very cheap and E-Z addition that makes a really great difference! good luck!

I installed the "AC-Delete" system. Made in Hudson, Colo. Some points to make: 1)It works great! 2)Test-fit, test-fit & Test-fit some more. 3) It's fibreglas, so don't overtighten any thing. 4)I bought my own gasket material + sealant. 5)Consider replacing your original fan motor at this time. 6)Consider changing fan attachment screws at this time to allow easier removal {I like those Tall,1/4" Hex-head screws found on the back side of the Monte dashboards) 7)No change required on the Dash heater/A.C. panel control system {!!!} but you still need the engine vacuum. 8)I put in a pair of kick panel vents from a non-A.C. car {plug that vacuum hose that goes over to the Rite side kick panel} 8a) Plug any disconnected vacuum hoses. 9)You do have to cut a hole for the fan speed resistor in the new box {See number 3, above} 10) At this point, consider putting a relay on the "2nd highest" fan speed wire...Because of the "electrical arking" caused by "older fans" at this speed selection. Over the years I seen alot of these G.M. switches burned out -internally- at this speed setting. Youmay note the electrical connector on the back of the control panel has a "slightly-melted look' to it.

I have a solution to the "rotational slop"!!!!!! I'll try and get it sketched up and (hopefully) figure out how to attach it. It involves two (2) #2-56NC screws, with the heads cut off, screwed into the "outer ring" of the latch assembly and two corresponding holes (drill sizes #50 thru #43) drilled in the glove box door. All invisible from the outside!

THANK YOU monte70car !! Following those instructions on that link, I had it apart in 30 seconds. Couple of observations; 1)I used .042" diameter weld rod with a slitely tapered, but flat "point". 2)There's 5 tumblers and the one closest to the knob is not activated with the key. 3)Tightening up that "rotational-slop" is going to take some thinking, probably a 6-pak's worth. DCW

I give up... I've looked in both 70 & 72 Chassis service & Body manuals, the Chev Factory Assembly manual and the collision manual. I've poked every slot and opening, w/o the key and with the key in the locked & unlocked position. How does the lock and knob come out of the glove box door???? Also, can the, approximately, 10 degrees of "cylinder/lock" rotation be eliminated? Thanx for any help. DCW

While the glove box location may be the "correct" location, I found having it there a pain in the @$%. Over the years in various cars, I've added or relocated them to "just up under the dash", on the drivers side, so it can't be seen and I can reach in with the window down and open the trunk. The are two versions of this switch, a "large" diameter and "smaller" diameter, which I think was used in the late 80s & 90s. Also, you can actually have two functioning switchs, one in each location.