Mike 57
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Posts posted by Mike 57
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I never liked to adjust lash on a running engine.
If the engine is not making any valve train noises I would leave it alone. They do not need adjustment like solids, unless they are a short travel racing hydraulic lifter and they are noisy.
I usually adjust the intake when the exhaust valve for that cylinder is just starting to close and I adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed. Back off the adjuster and then tighten until you can feel some drag when your are spinning the pushrod between your fingers. when yiu feel that drag tighten 1/2 turn and lock down
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I would do a compression test on it. Pay close attention to the plugs as you remove them prior to the compression test. One of the may give you an indication as to the cylindr that is giving you trouble. I hate to bring this to the game, but you might have a wiped out lobe on the cam. Modern oils are not good for break in on flat tappet cams.
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I just got mine a drum of Renegade 112+ fuel today. It must like it, It drinks a bunch!
Paul, if you see this check out LSM valve spring compressors. My springs are real healthy, 800 lift 7400 chip and it is real easy to change springs on the head.
You will the american racing headers they fit great. They are a little tight to the block if you run a diaper, but they fit really well and do not hang down at strange angles.
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I like the slotted rotors better than drilled and slotted, but they are hard to find. I have aftermarket Wilwood brakes on the front of mine. It is a lot lighter package. I do notice a difference between solid and drilled and slotted on tracks with short shutdowns. I have seen cracks radiating from the drilled area. that is probably from me putting a lot of heat into a cold rotor.
For the street a good pad and coated rotor to prevent rust should be fine
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Decide your goals.
Lots of power in a 383. If you are not going to turn it hard your stock block with main studs should work. You should have the mains line honed with new studs.
You will have to clearance the block at the pan rails. The oil pan will need to replaced with a 400 or aftermarket pan. The assembly will need to be balanced with a 400 balancer and ring gear. You probably will not need to worry about it but with real high lift cams you need to check clearance between the lobes and connecting rods.I figure that you are planning a cruiser so keep the compression in check, aluminum heads will help don't go with giant ports. Retrofit roller cam would be good.
A big block really fills up that engine bay! You need to figure all the accessory drives will have to be sourced, not a lot of that stuff left in junk yards.
But I love big blocks!
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I know I am late to the part but the best fitting header I have found is the American racing header. they fit my AFR325 heads and tuck up to the body nice. The are close to some places on a Gen 6 block but I can still get the engine diaper on. They fit better than hooker or headman.
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Bill is correct.
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If you are looking to restore a 402 car it may be worth it, but other than that it is a small big block. And if it has big heads it will be a dog on bottom end.
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Dave, hate to see this happen to you. I lost one also a couple of years ago. Davy set me up with the Morel pressure lubed solid bushing roller, they seem to be good so far
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I Run American Racing Headers. They are the best fitting header I have found for the Monte. I have used Headman, Hooker and Doug Thorley. They are stainless with thick flanges, I do not use header gaskets just a little Ultra Grey silicone. They sit higher in the chassis, I flattened the bottom tubes of hooker headers, the collectors are tucked up tighter and are aimed right at the humps of the cross member. They are a little expensive but will never rust, I had my steel ones re-coated several times.
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I am amazed that you have an issue with the engine run on with the plugs looking like that.
I tend to think that you have the idle set up high to compensate for the cam.
Does your MSD have the bushings to adjust the CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE CURVE? If it does I would put the black bushing in that gives you 18 degrees of centrifugal and then try 20 degrees of initial. That may bring the Idle speed up and you can close the throttle plates a little bit, that may help run on.
What is the cranking compression numbers?
Was the cam installed straight up, or advanced or retarded?
A 107 lobe separation makes a lumpy idle.
What brand of cam?
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I also agree, run the builders recommendation.
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Like Sam my big concern would be rods and rod bolts.
It would be nice to know what you have.
I have Molnar rods with ARP2000 bolts in my 565 shift at 7200
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I talked with Dave today, he will be going home tomorrow. He sounds better than he has in months, but he still has a long road.
Dave asked me to thank all the guys for their thoughts and wishes.
Once home he plans on catching up on the boards.
He still has a long recovery, let's keep him in our thoughts.
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Yep, the higher the stall the softer it feels.
My 9 inch Coan stalls at 5500 The trans shifts smooth as silk below that.
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Looks like a heavy duty oil pump driveshaft, with a steel sleeve. High volume pumps used them, and I think some truck motors used the heavy duty pumps. The one old truck at work with a 427 called for 15-40 oil.
Some tall deck manifolds need a dizzy with a slip collar to get the cam gear engagement right
The shaft that Andreas posted looks like a 400 sbc shaft
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I have no problem with 700s on the street great transmission.
The gear splits sometimes hurt at the track, Too deep a gear will blow off the tires.
TH400, 2.48, 1.48, 1.00 I run a 4.11 so the ratio to the tires would be 10.19, 6.08, 4.11
TH700-R4, 3.06, 1.62, 1.00, 0.70 with a 4.11 the ratio to the tires would be 12.66, 6.82, 4.11, 2.88
Gear Vendors would be nice
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I agree with Sam about Mark
Be carefull looking at some of these engines. The blueprint engine is a tall deck (10.2 instead of 9.8 deck height) Getting a good set of performance headers to get past the steering will be expensive.
My 2 inch american racing headers with merge collectors were pricey, I should have gone bigger but I did not want to take it to have custom headers made or spend the extra $1200 on them.
My car will run 10.0s at 3900 pounds with my 555. If your car is 3300 a good 540 should get it into the nines.
You will need some roll bars.
You will probably come to hate that 700 at the track.
How did you get that car at 3300 pounds?
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I have a Rossler Th400 with a reverse manual valve body and a trans brake. It shifts fairly soft because of the high stall of the converter.(5500 off the brake). easy to drive on the street.I have a big trans cooler because of the slip in the converter and the blanket around it.
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Definitely the wrong rings.
What brand of ring package?
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Sounds like a fun build. I like my AFR 325s.
What are you doing to the chassis to support your quest for 10s
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Sounds like valve train to me. I am hearing popping all the time. The valves may be adjusted too tight or an exhaust lobe is going.
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Max should be 7 pounds, are you sure of the gauge? 12 lbs should be pushing the needles off the seats and flooding it. Lean conditions usually cause popping through the carb. other things could case the popping.
I would double check for other issues.
What do your plugs look like?
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It has splayed main caps. If it is .030 over it is probably done. 040 is about max on a factory block not a lot of room for clean up.
Two bolt blocks are actually stronger than the factory 4 bolt blocks in the main web area. splayed caps make them better.
The last 400 I did, adding the three splayed center main caps, then line bore, squaring the deck, then boring, was pretty high dollar. I probably could have picked up an aftermarket block for a little more.
Fuel Cell with factory Fuel Gauge
in Modifiers
Posted
Jared,
Do you have a true firewall between the trunk and the seat. There is a requirement for one with the cell in the trunk. I think the battery need to be in a can. You can get a sending unit for most cells with GM values. You will have to take the foam out of the cell for the sending unit.