Mike 57
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Posts posted by Mike 57
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I would guess that the lower domes were installed so the engine would run on the lower quality fuel. If you actually find the taller domes you may run into drive ability issues. 10.5 to 1 with cast iron heads is not a fuel friendly compression ratio.
Camshaft number = #3874872
Camshaft Intake duration @ .050" == 196°
Camshaft Exhaust duration @ .050" = 196°
Camshaft lift - Intake == 0.398"
Camshaft lift - Exhaust = 0.398"
@ 114° LSA
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It can be, little messy but it can be.
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Yep sounds normal, like Sam said get a metal filter!
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It would be nice to see a picture of the hole and your valve train.
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Put 4 marks on you balancer 90 degrees apart that should help, follow the firing order.
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I really doubt that you could have cracked a piston turning it over by hand.
I would continue to adjust the valves and then run a compression test, a leak down would be better if you can.
What procedure are you using to adjust valves?
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Were you turning the motor over by hand when this happened?
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run a steel line from the intake to the modulator. I bet the hose is collapsing.
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Here are the dimensions for the length of the 350, The 700 is 30 3/4. If you 350 has a 9" tail shaft you are golden.
Hope it helps
6" tailshaft 27 11/16
9" tailshaft 30 11/16
12" tailshaft 33 27/32
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I run a Plate-Type, 11 in. x 11 in. x 1 1/2 in cooler. I ran to the cooler then the radiator to maintain a stable heat in the trans fluid. When Rossler built my trans I talked to Carl Rossler about it and he thought it was a good Idea if you have a cooler in the radiator. Oil works best warm.
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Good read Dave!
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I think i would call a true converter builder and have one built for your combo. I prefer Coan but that is just me. the rest sounds like fun.
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Do you know what the casting number of the current heads are? It would be good to know to determine the approximate CCs of the chamber. Were the chambers CCed during the build? Do you have the piston part number? This info would help to determine final compression.
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Consider selling the motor and putting in a mild small block.
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Retrofit roller lifters usually use a .400 shorter push rod. I don't know how the gen6 units compare. Good luck on the 18 to 20 MPH
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Hope it is fixable Paul. It was nice pitting by you.
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Mike fell asleep at the tree, and Paul had a roller lifter fail. I hope he does not have much damage.
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Like Sam said, early heads use a gasketed plug and they are 3/4 inch reach
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Base monte was three on the tree, not many of them. I don't think they had a floor shift.
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A good turbo 350 will live well behind a big block unless you really beat on it. The big block swap is easy.
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Take them to a tire shop before you ruin the tires, or worse hurt yourself.
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The modulator will only affect the shift point a few miles per hour. It will make the shift a little bit harsher. The governor controls the speed the the trans shifts at.
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I have a few doubts about the gen 6 set up working. As Mike questioned, the provisions to bolt down the plate and the way the way the lifter bores are machined flat at the top on the late roller motors. The cam is retained by a plate, you could probably use a button. You could probably make it all work but it would probably cost more than just the price of the cam. I think a set of retrofit rollers would be the way to go.
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I never use a new tap to clean threads on a block. I use a thread chasing tool or a old worn tap. You just want to clean the threads not cut into them.
Engine upgrade
in Modifiers
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Picture?