Jump to content

Mike 57

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

    1,362
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by Mike 57

  1. Here are some thoughts off the top of my head.

    First I would tighten the lash.

    Aluminum heads grow when they get hot. I run a solid roller my cold lash is 6 to 7 thousandths tighter than my hot running lash. If you are running standard hydraulic rollers you are not anywhere close to being centered in the hydraulic chamber. 1/2 a turn on a 7/16th fine thread stud is .025 of an inch. Get the engine warm your lash is now around .019 to .018. lifters and oil are warm, big block valve train geometry, I think I would tighten the lash.

     

    I think what Sam was getting at on the ignition thoughts was this.

    If the ignition is not up to par, voltage low to the coil usually retards timing heats the exhaust valve and loads the lifter.

    Advanced timing rattles the valves.

    Retarded timing see above.

    Any way you look at it you are beating up the rollers I would tighten the lash.

     

    I wish I was closer to you I think I could cure it!

     

    I feel your frustration if you want to talk about it give me a call. 724 714 1974

     

     

  2. I guess the cost would be determined by the condition of the 454 you found. If you do some research Eagle has a 489/496 rotating assembly from Jegs at around 1400. If you figure crank work, rod resize, pistons, rings, and bearings it is a pretty good deal.  With modern lubes I would go with a hydraulic roller.  There are lots of scenarios for you build, I am sure lots of people will chime in. 

  3. Bad cap or stuck thermostat. Did you put a small hole in the thermostat to make sure that the air would bleed out of the block? If there was an air bubble around the thermostat it would not open.

     

    Must have been a heck of a noise!

  4. 427s have a 4.25 inch bore, 402s are 4.125. Boring a 402 .125 would make some thin cylinder walls. You could get a 454 block and put your crank in it with new pistons, but at that point why not go 454? The extra .250 inch stroke would help torque. There are some stroker pistons out there, a 454 crank in your 402 would get you 433 with a .030 over bore. Seems like lots of cost when there are still 454s to be found.

  5. I have done a few and never had to clearance a 454 block. I did have to notch a early 427 block.

     

    Forged pistons knock when cold, but they should quiet down when the get warmed up and expand.

     

    A couple of questions on the build:

    What piston to wall clearance are you running?

    What are the gaps on the piston rings?

    Are the support rails for the oil rings installed with the dimples in the piston pin gap?

  6. Finding a 400 that is not worn is a issue .040 is max over bore in my opinion.

    Last 2 400 blocks I did were 509s one was a 406 the other a 434.

    I had the machine shop install 4 bolt billet main caps with angled outer bolts, line hone, and square deck the block. it is a pretty big investment that would go a long way to a sportsman block with a lot of nice features.

    What are your goals does the stock block make sense?

×
×
  • Create New...