Mike 57
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Posts posted by Mike 57
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Gen 6 bowtie,
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Actually that is not too bad of a price for a header that fits. Stainless, thick flanges, merge collector, TIG welded, I may have to check into them more. There might be a set in my future.
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Use the feeler gauge, make sure it is oil free.
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Lets see, where did I put that dwell meter?
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Throttle Valve Cable Adapter, TV Corrector. The most important part of the whole deal is to get the pressures correct on the trans.
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Listen to Dave, I wear the same stuff. Drive shaft loop is real important. The majority of failures come at speed not launch, when the shaft reaches its critical rotational speed.
Roll bar at 11.50!
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Get rid of the street tires! Drag radials will really help, regular slicks would help more.
Soften the front, get some 90/10 shocks they are fairly inexpensive. Loosen the control arm bolts so the bushings pivot instead of reacting on the rubber. Disconnect the front sway bar at the track.
You are going to have to play with the launch, you will not be able to tell anything until you get a sticky tire. With the tire you have I probably would not spray until it starts to recover from the 1-2 shift.
I know I seem to be stressing tire a lot, But that is the next step before any real suspension tuning. I leave off of a trans brake. I am on the two step at 3400 when I leave the converter spikes to 5500 and I shift at 7000. That is on a 28/10.5 MT slick
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Keep in mind that a tall ball joint in the lower arm lowers the front about a inch. You will also have to notch the disc brake shield for clearance.
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I have C clip eliminators from Strange. Never leaked a drop and the rear does get some abuse. These units use a tapered bearing and good seals and are made for all styles of driving. Earlier eliminators used a roller bearing and were basically drag race only and were not designed for much side loading and the seal was built into the bearing. That is probably where the horror stories came from. Using them for what they were not designed for.
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I agree it sounds like a radiator issue. If it is building heat going down the road under cruise conditions that is usually an indication. I had one in a pickup, the faster I went the hotter it got. I took it to a radiator shop, they took the tanks off and confirmed that the lower tubes were plugged. They ran a rod through the tubes to clean them out. They used to call it rodding a radiator. Some shops no longer do it because technology has changed. Most will still recore a radiator so you have the original tanks if keeping the original look is a concern. Some older radiators are too fragile for rodding.
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I would like to go but I am going to Good Guys Columbus
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Nice Dave!
Not as photogenic but deadly consistent 60s
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When you choose a pan there should be a list of suggested pickups for the chosen pan. Look at he link Dave provided, there is a suggested parts tab that lists the pickups. Nice pan by the way, it would be an excellent way to go.
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Like Sam said if the shaft of the lock bolt was broken you should not be able to turn it at all. You should be able to compare the bolt by putting it up by the case and see if it looks like it goes past the pin.
I wonder if the gears galled and ridged the shaft at one time.
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What engine do you have in your Monte?
With a high volume pump a higher capacity oil pan may be a good idea.
Try to find a pan with windage control.
There are some nice aluminum timing covers out there. they stay nicer than the china chrome.
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I think there are better things than RTV for thread sealant.
I use this for intake bolts and head studs going into the water jacket. Thread sealant
I have used this also I like the other one better. Another one
NAPA has the first one
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I would have to see that. I find it hard to believe that there was enough load to break a cam without something really catastrophic happening in the engine. It would be a first for me and I have been around a lot of engines. I would like to see the engine turned over with a valve cover off and see only half of the valves moving. I would agree with timing gears, all the valves would not be moving.
If the cam did actually break it would be nice to know the reason. And I would have the cam bearings replaced. So I guess the rebuild would be in order. Kind of hard to get at the cam bearings with the crank in place.
Before I did anything I would insure that the cam is actually broken.
Is this a trusted mechanic that you have used for years?
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Yep, pull the bolts one at a time and put sealant on them
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Dave, Intake .019 Exhaust .020 I set them cold at .015 and .016 and they were close.
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Wow this is an old post! I like Moog, a lot of Howe are racing parts and rebuildable, I think AFCO is the same.
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No EFI Pro Systems 1280 CFM Carb
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I was warming up the engine to adjust valves hot and decided to make a sound clip. Here is a link
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Thanks Daryl
It is a 4.56 bore 4.25 stroke for 555 cubic inches. AFR 325 heads, CP 13 to 1 pistons, Callies crank, molnar 6.385 rods, Mike Jones roller cam, duration at .050 intake 281 exhaust 283 and lots of lift. Kind of lumpy! Pro Systems 1280 CFM Carb.
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Thanks Daryl
It is a 4.56 bore 4.25 stroke for 555 cubic inches. AFR 325 heads, CP 13 to 1 pistons, Callies crank, molnar 6.385 rods, Mike Jones roller cam, duration at .050 intake 281 exhaust 283 and lots of lift. Kind of lumpy!
heater hoses
in Engine Tech
Posted
If you have the center bypass hose between the water pump and the intake water crossover, you can plug the heater hoses off. You don't even need that one if you drill a few holes in your thermostat so water will pass through and you will not get an air pocket.