Mike 57
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Posts posted by Mike 57
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Depends on what the condition of the rods. Sometimes the cost of removing the rods and installing them on pistons clean, check and resize a stock rod. A upgrade rod is cost effective. Just remember these types of changes will require rebalance.
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Yep intake bolts always come loose, aluminum intakes aggravate the loosening I check mine all the time
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Is that the engine that lost coolant and got hot enough to quit? If that is the case I would have the block crack checked AND pressure tested. Those do not look like original pistons, factory usually have four valve reliefs.
Forged pistons are the strongest and make noise when cold, Hypers are cast with high silicone content they are stronger than plain cast pistons but the strength comes with a brittleness so power adders are a no, no.
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Hard to help with heat range with out knowing your combo. I guess I would start out with a FR5, it is a 5/8th hex 3/4 inch reach plug. There is a lot better header clearance with that plug.
I run Autolite AR3933 but have run NGK R5671A-9 might be cold for your setup.
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Rides fine with the lift bars on the street and they help hook at the track.
Are your wheels hub centric or lug centric? Different balancing techniques.
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Torque arms are Camaro items, not needed nor can you install it. I run these jegs lift bars and never had an issue with wheel hop on a burn out and I do lots of them. I hope you know that burn outs are hard on transmission sprags. I break the tires loose in second and go right to 3rd.
I am assuming that your bushings are good in the rear. soft rubber bushings even if new will contribute to hop
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I would have the rad checked. Mine runs 155 without a stat idling in the lanes and it is 555 cid.
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Take the stat out again run it without it ans see if it makes foam.
It seems like the stat is not opening.
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Advance the timing a bit and see what happens. Retarded timing builds heat in the head. You I am concerned about the foam. How much pressure does it build? Does it push water out with the cap on?
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Not really You may have some issues with the impeller on the water pump.
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Drill the hole don't look back!
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10.02 at around 131 mph
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I always put a 3/16 hole in the flange of a thermostat if I am running one.
When I am filling a engine with coolant I like to leave the thermostat housing off until I see coolant in the manifold crossover.
Where is your timing at. If it is retarded it will build heat!
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Moved my shift points up to 6700 on my shift light and moved my Rev limit to 7300.
Reinstalled my favorite shift light and was rewarded with these slips.
I talked to my Connecting Rod manufacturer (actually the president of the company) and he feels there is plenty of room to go higher on the REV limit. We will have to see what happens if I move the shift points up a little more.
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We are on the same page Dave, your explanation is better!
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That seems a little steep, I have a lot less in the starter turning over my 13 to 1 555.
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Put my favorite shift light back in and raised the shift points to 6700. Going to see what happens today!
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Todd. I Prefer Thompson. I don't think Quaker is open yet.
Dave, I actually should not have said squat. As the car comes up it transfers the weight to he rear, and compresses the rear springs and shocks.
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More Pictures
Burnout
launch
launch 2
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Steve,
Rear springs are soft, I had the softest rears for a monte on it and then went a little softer with a spacer. I wish I could tell you what the rate is, they are red and I got them from Crazy Davey. I am amazed how much it squats down on the rear. I check the shock travel after every pass, I get about 4 1/2 inches of downward travel on launch.
Spark Plug advise for aluminum heads
in Engine Tech
Posted
FR5 is a street type plug that has the same heat range as your UR5 just a modern smaller 5/8 hex that is easier on installation. You can cross that number to Bosch if you want. I use a lower cost plug until I decide the best heat range.