Mike 57
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Posts posted by Mike 57
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The manufacturers may figure that if you are going with that long of rod, you have performance plans in the works.
What are your goals?
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Cometic makes a variety of gaskets from .027 to .120 for a BBC if you are .005 out the hole use a .045 gasket.
I never get the head gaskets until I do a trial assembly and make final clearance checks.
The piston that you are talking about is for a 4.25 stroke and a .250 long rod.
The common compression distance for a 4 inch stroke is between 1.240 (Ross) and 1.245 (CP/Carillo)
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Mine weighs 3992 full interior all steel.
I did change the front brakes to Wilwood that probably took off 75 pounds. Also left out a few bumper braces.
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Pulled the engine, took off the heads and put the short block in the corner.
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Higher oil consumption is normal on a rebuild until the rings fully seat. What ring package are you running? Are they 5/64, 1/16 molly faced, cast or gapless? I hope you are running standard tension oil rings. Do you know if the block was honed with torque plates, what stones were used for the hone, and was it plateau honed?
I have done a couple of engines with the KB pistons and had no issues.
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618 inch big block sounds like fun! I hope you can hook it up! I run a 28/10.5 and it is pretty tight.
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I ran some numbers, you could probably claim around 360 hp at 5000 and 400 ft lb of torque at 3900.
I could not find much info on the cam.
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No way to make a guess on that without cam specs.
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Here is a link, not cheap but it really helps. these are for 5/8 plugs. linky
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Steve, they are spark plug sockets that turn over the end of the plug. If you notice they have a notch in them and can get in a really tight place. If you can start the plug you csn use these to tighten them with a 5/8 wrench.
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I don' think patriot headers and patriot heads are the same company, but good luck with it!
I had a similar issue with my AFR big block heads had to get these sockets and trim some 90 degree boots
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different pump. stroke is not the same
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I always had good luck with Gates Belts. I would still toss one every once in a while. I changed to serpentine belts and had better luck. I did not toss any belts his year and the the motor has been to 7k.
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I can understand you wanting to keep the cost down with your choice of rotating assembly. Just keep in mind NO POWER Adders! I would go with the 75 cc heads with .040 to .045 quench you should be about 9.6 compression. Don't get head gaskets until you have the rotating assembly in the block and you can measure how far down in the hole the pistons are, then adjust piston to head clearance (quench) with head gasket thickness.
If you do go with the K.B. pitons make sure the clearances are done exactly as called for by K.B. The pistons will work fine for your level of performance.
Good luck, and you and your son have fun with it.
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I would have to have the engine stopping ln the same place proven to me.
If we really want to get technical, both automatics and standard transmissions have ring gears. On a standard the ring gear is pressed or heated and pressed onto the Fly wheel
On a auto trans the ring gear is welded to the Flexplate.
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Well the flywheel is toast.
What ministarter are you using? I had issues with one and found it had Nylon reduction gears!
Some ministarters come with shim kits to adjust the depth of engagement not only the tooth engagement.
Here is an instruction that may help, and it states that the gear may not pull back on its own. hope it helps. starter instructions
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What you are feeling is not rebound, it is lack of gas pressure. Nitrogen gas is used to keep the fluid from foaming. It is still not good.
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Good price but too long for my application.
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If you have a th350 the driveshaft should fit, the cross member will need to be moved.
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You probably will have a tough time getting an aftermarket mini starter at local parts stores. I run one of these jegs starter
My Pickup with the 8.1 big block uses a factory style mini starter, but it has an offset pattern that most large flywheel starters have from the factory NAPA lists a few here is one, NAPA starter Is there any reason that you can't use the offset pattern? Most factory style straight patterns are for the 153 tooth fly wheel.
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.300 is not the norm for chevy performance valves .250 tip length is fine. I don't know why you would want to add length above the lock it seems that it would just add weight, unless you were trying to correct a geometry issue.
Did you get spring locators or steel shims to go between the valves and the heads? The springs will eat into the aluminum.
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I have a transmission jack so engine out the top trans out the bottom, the hood stays on.
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Engines
in Engine Tech
Posted
I am surprised that the converter will not bolt up to the new plate. Can the pads be drilled? The crank pilot should index the converter.