waupachino
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Posts posted by waupachino
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For a $1.00 more you can get 50 not 20
SOB! Nice find, but the others are already coming.
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For the front Bar I'm running one off a WS6 Trans Am. It fits perfect and are an 1 1/4 inch bar, not to mention can be found used fairly cheap.
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Disregard. I found these http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/p-1533...2-715-684s.aspx Not a bad price, but they wanted $13.34 for ground shipping. Summit had the same, but $4.95 for shipping.
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Does anybody have a link to the correct 1970 rear Window Trim reveal Clips? I currently have my Vinyl Roof off having some rust issues addressed and it was decided to pull the rear Window to clean up that area also. I've been informed the clips have seen better days and to source some replacements. Problem is I see many different varieties available.
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I know you stated you don't want Aluminum, but this is one of the best out there. http://www.dewitts.com/collections/cheve...or-manual-28-25 If you are on the Team Chevelle Forum, they will give you a discount. It's basically the same as a 4 row Harrison Copper Radiator, but made out of Aluminum. I'm switching my Copper Harrison 4 Row to this shortly if you're interested in used. It's currently cooling a 496.
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I have Long tube Hooker Headers on my Big Block. I didn't move my brake proportioning valve. But I did have to un bolt my steering shaft from the steering box and remove the shims to the upper control arm to move the control arm out of the way to get the header to fit. then bolt it all back up.
I too have Hooker Competition Headers on my Monte and did not have to move the proportioning valve and have had no problems with my Brakes. I got around the driver side installation issue as described above by unbolting the Motor mount on the driver's side and raising the Motor up approximately 1-2inches. The Super Competition series will not work and is not listed as fitting the Monte Carlo. Just because it's an A body doesn't mean it will fit our application. The Motor in a Monte Carlo sits differently in the frame.
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If the Rotor isn't spinning and the Distributor Gear is fine, then it's probably the Timing Chain.
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Mike, no problem. I quoted 427monte because he is having trouble getting the plug wire boot on #6. I've found that the 90 degree boots work best on 6&8 because of the tight space. I run the Firecore 50 Wires http://www.firecore50.com/ if you haven't heard of them, check them out. They will make your set to your specifications and are a great product. A lot of Racers are running them.
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Cudax, I can get at the spark plug and I have a socket I can use for the plug but I can not get a spark plug wire boot in the tight area between the end of the plug and the header tube.
What plug wires are you running? I have Pro1 Heads with Hooker Headers. I use a 90 degree end On Plug 6&8.
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I just installed the Edelbrock Victor series on my 496. So far I'm liking it. It's the most consistent the Temps have been since I've been running a BBC.
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If I'm not mistaken, the tint Law only applies to applied film tint, not actual tinted Glass.
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The best thing for launch is to get a taller and softer spring. I run the Moroso springs, they are scary to put in!
Agreed! If I ever remove mine, They are getting cut first. The portential energy behind them is incredible.
Curious as to what Rear Anti-Roll Bar you are running. Do you run it on the street still attached?
I'm currently running Drag Shocks front and rear. 90/10 front, 50/50 rear.
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Need to start thinking about a cowl hood! My 4150 on a Vic Jr just fits.
This is true. I know that Sniper Jr. is a nice piece, but it's not going to fit under a stock hood, this is why I stuck with the Victor Jr. and a Induction Solutions Fogger set up. Wanted to keep the stock flat hood.
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David I had several crack in just about the same place. One of them was almost completely all the way around. Seems like the more power and traction the car got the worse the problem was. I didn't have any fitment issues with the exception of the top 2 Bolts now need to be removed from the top because I can't get at them from the bottom anymore. That issue is partially due to the fact of solid motor mounts not allowing the motor to hang down as much.
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Time for a J&W Bellhousing. After multiple Bellhousing cracks very similar to that, I bought one.
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OEM GM Corvette BB pan is a bolt in. I have one under the LS6 (Gen IV) in my 1972.
I'm running the exact same Pan in my 1970 and I couldn't agree more. Nice factory piece with added capacity.
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With an $8k budget I would have my Engine Builder put me together a real nice BBC, probably a 496-540 CI Motor with everything set up to my Car and what I'm looking to accomplish.
I wouldn't say crate motors are junk, but they are all built the same and do not take into consideration what application they are going into.
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I just had to do a complete refresh on my 496 due to a failed Comp Endura-X mechanical solid lifter. Not good at all, these lifters probably had less then 500 miles on them. Needless to say I didn't put Comp Cams back in it, and got rid of the Comp Cam itself. Went with the new Isky Red Zone EZ Roll EZX lifter. It's a bushed lifter so no needle bearings to fail. Crower has a bushed lifter out also. Supposedly this is the hot ticket to run if running a solid roller.
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Sounds to me that they did exactly what was needed to repair the Engine with a failed Distributer Gear. Only thing that might have been over looked was replacing the Piston Rings, but I'm pretty sure they were probably with in spec. I just went through a very similar process with a failed roller lifter and covered all the things the dealership did and the rings, not because I had to, but figured I should anyway since the Engine was apart.
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I used a Masonry Chisel, Hammer, and Block of Steel the last time I cut my Braided Hose. Worked perfect, no frayed edges, no mess, just a couple of whacks and ready to put together.
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Tick
in Engine Tech
If this is a Hydraulic Cam and you had to re-lash it due to the Rockers becoming loose, you either have a flat Lobe (which is becoming a regular occurrence due to today's Oil), or a collapsed lifter. My bet is on the lobe.
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Only time I had a plug fouling like that it was a bad Cylinder Bore. The Bore was worn and Oil was getting by the Rings. Pulled the Engine, Bored .030 over and was back in Business.
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For what it's worth, I heard the Monte's front end was longer because it was supposed to be a front wheel drive car, Like the Tornado's and Eldorado's. The extra length was need to accommodate the front drive axle.
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I am stuck on 165R15 Bug tires on the Malibus 3.5 inch Convo Pro. Just don't try to turn in a hurry. I am just cheap in some ways. The early Beetle tires run about $38 each. Mickey Tompson front runners are well over $100.
Andy
I hope you aren't doing any High Speed passes with those tires. I used to run the same until I lost the Tread of the left front in Third Gear at close to 125 MPH. It was a Butt puckering experience to say the least, not to mention ruining the left Fender, moldings, and rocker when it came off.
Shortly after this occurred I had numerous people inform me that the Beetle Tires really aren't made for Speed or handle the weight of a Monte Carlo. Now I have Mickey Thompsons.
Looking to replace radiator.
in Engine Tech
Posted
Here is one of the best out there. http://www.dewitts.com/collections/cheve...or-manual-28-25 If you are on the Team Chevelle Forum, they will give you a discount. It's basically the same as a 4 row Harrison Copper Radiator, but made out of Aluminum.