waupachino

Ultra Bell is the way I went.

I've lost 2 so far. Look into the Isky Red Zone Ez Roll Lifters, they are bushed instead of needle bearings if you're staying with a Roller. Several other manufactures offer the bushed Roller Lifters also.

Impressed with the ARH Headers. Interesting idea putting the #6 header tube over the frame rail instead of in between.

I would say with your set up 7K is not a big deal. My 496 is set to shift at 6750, and has seen over that before.

I went threw several bell housings on a 350 Turbo before installing a JW Bell. They are much thicker then stock. Another thing to look into is installing a Anti Roll Bar. This will keep the frame from twisting on launch, which is more then likely the culprit to your broken bell housings.

My mistake was in not thinking stock Chevy intake. Sorry, I'm mainly knowledgeable in aftermarket performance parts, which in that case it works great. I've done a oval port Holley Strip dominator intake on rectangular port Dart merlin heads.

To my knowledge it was commonly done the other way around. Oval port intake on a rectangular port head to build velocity and increase the low end since the rectangular port heads were so big. Going the other way around will work, but the main issue that has been seen is the step from the rectangular port intake to the oval port head since the intake port is bigger then the head port it will cause turbulence in the air flow coming in unlike when you do it the other way around.

If I'm not mistaken, this box will widen your turn radius. I had put one in my 70 years ago and took it back out because of this.

I just recently put an HRpartsNstuff rear anti-roll bar on my 1970, couldn't beat the deal I found on it for $390.00 shipped off Ebay from someone who bought and didn't have a use for it any longer new in the box still. It has been the biggest improvement to date in handling and launching that I've made to the car. Should've done it years ago. There are many different manufactures for anti-roll bars so take you pick, but make sure you get one that bolts to the axel and frame.

Forget the Ladder bars, Go with adjustable upper control arms, solid lower control arms, and an Anti Roll Bar like HRpartsnstuff makes. I just removed my factory sway bar and replaced it with the Anti Roll Bar by HRpartsnstuff. All I can say is I wished I had did it years ago. It handles street so much better on the street even with the skinnies I have in the front, launches level, and doesn't twist the body at all.

That looks sick. So want one. You're going to need one tall hood scoop to clear that air inlet.

My first 496 I had about $7500.00 in it. Cost can go either way depending on which parts you choose. When I lost a roller lifter and went through it again, I had another $5k in it, $1k in roller lifters and $1275.00 in shaft mounted rockers alone.

Yes it is a cool site. Just a heads up, have an Oil pan ready when you pull the old Bullet out. I made the mistake of not thinking much Transmission fluid would come out and flooded the Garage floor. Oops.

Are you sure it's the o-ring leaking and not the gear seal itself inside the Bullet? Mine was leaking due to the gear seal, and I just replaced the whole Bullet from here. They also have just the o-ring. Page down about half way. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm

The Rod and Caps are machined as a whole, so if you switched them it completely changes the clearances and will lead to a whole bunch of issues.

To my knowledge there is no clearancing needed to be done to the block when installing the stroker crank and rods. I'm running a 496.

My neighbor put one in his 32 coupe. Never again he says. It never stopped smoking and never ran right. Within a 1000 miles he was taking it out and found that one of the ringlands was broken. This probably happened during assembly of the short block and neither Jegs nor Blue Print Motors wanted to warrantee it. They tried to say it was from detontation. It was a mess for a while. I would recommend find a local machine shop to put one together for you. I would be surprised if there wasn't a good engine builder in your area. Maybe ask some of the local racers who they use.

I have heard many tales of them leaking..unless there are 2 different makes now I personally haven't run them yet, but they are on my to do list if I ever get around to beefing up my 12 Bolt. There are several manufactures that make them. I haven't had a problem with my stock axels, but have heard the horror stories of broken c-clips and axels coming out. One of my worst fears would be to break a c-clip and have an axel/wheel/tire combo take out a quarter panel, this would be the main reason I would install them. That would be a bad day. We all know how hard it is to find a NOS quarter panel and the cost of body work. I think the main reason I haven't had a problem is due to never going to the Track. On the street it's very hard to dead hook. You find all your weak links when your car really hooks up hard, not when you have a little tire spin.

If you're building the rear end on the theory stronger is better, now is the time to think about c-clip eliminators.

Definitely check the float level first. That will tell you a lot. If it's slightly high, adjust it a little lower. Adjusting it a little lower can also help if it truly is percolating, because it will have more area to expand/boil before it flows into the Motor.

Did you check the float level? Sounds like the floats may be set high, or another possibility is that the fuel is getting hot and percolating.

Picked up my 1970 Monte last night from my Body/Paint guy. It had been there since 02/13/14 gettiing some issues fixed, fixing rust under the vinyl roof, new vinyl roof. The driver's fender, hood, roof, passenger door and tops of quarter panels all painted. The car was Black, so it should have been a fairly easy match and I was assured it would. Well guess what? It doesn't match, not even close in direct lighting. SOB! I believe he may have mixed up the paint code from an 88 Corvette that I owned which was Tuxedo Black with the paint code of my Monte Carlo. So now it has to go back and be redone and I will be missing most of the Car season.

If you're not running a power adder like NOS, NGK R5671A-7 would probably be the best, it's part # is NGK 4091. Rock Auto has the cheepest prices on these by far at $1.55 each.

My 1970 has a vinyl headliner, no perforations, similar material to vinyl seats, but smooth with no grain effect to it. I've owned the car since 1984 and believe it to be original.

Check out http://www.fbperformance.com/ They build Transmission that will survive the power of a 496, and more.