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colonel

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About colonel

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton, Alberta Canada
  • Interests
    Muscle cars, sports, travel
  • Legal Name
    Kevin Dyck
  • Occupation
    Refrigeration Technician

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  1. Finally made it back to the garage today. Lower frame rail in trans cross member mounting area is 50 7/8 all the way along. No visible twists bends or other damage I can see that would make my mounting holes 54 1/4 instead of 53 5/8. The entire drive train was in a different 70 Monte and it all got swapped over when I got the 70 I have now. It had the original trans cross member and I was able to get the rubber and metal clamp system in this cars frame so that is what I was using for the 4l60 and it worked great. The other car I had to drill a hole in the frame and the cross member an
  2. I can see those differences now that you mention it. I was so focused on the height issue I didn't see the angle and mounting tab differences. With the 4l80 you definitely need the increased angle the RCAE-4 gives you. When I first found this cross member issue I debated about just making a custom one but couldn't do that without having the trans fitted properly and having the headers attached, which needed some mods anyway, and towing it back and forth to a shop so started looking for premade ones. Didn't do as much research as you but with my distances between frame rails off, which
  3. Got the g force cross member Monday and test fit it. The mounting holes are exactly 53 5/8 on center. My frame holes are 54 1/4 so I can bolt one side in and see the edge of the cross member support tab through the holes on the other side. Missed it by that much! I ordered the one for the 4l80 and the mounting tabs are higher than the one for the 700r4/4l60 which dramatically lowers it. I still have almost and inch of space between the bracket and cross member with the 1 5/16 mount in there and I still need to move the trans up in the tunnel. If the pictures on their site are correct
  4. Thanks for posting them. Those articles are very helpfull. Shame I am going to loose the x pipe. Might loose it even if I use the original cross member becasue it is so far back. That Chevelle tunnel seems to provide them a bit more clearance to get the 3 degree angle. Mine is at 5 and hitting the speed sensor to do that. Don't have to get it back to 3 as I'm using EFI and can easily adjust my diff angle as I have adjustable uppers on it. They seem to be able to use the factory shifter cable as well. Mine seems reluctant to bend that much and avoid the speed sensor. Maybe lift
  5. Holy smoke! Did this response up this morning but didn't hit submit before getting distracted and forgetting. Was looking forward to a reply but can't get one if ya don't send it silly! I contacted the folks that make the banjo fittings and have determined I do have the 1/4" ones so will order them up....likely get 2, just in case. I searched for Banjo fittings but didn't seem to be getting anywhere but also didn't search ebay specifically. I think Banjo fittings will be the best option so will order a set of those vs cutting and tapping the regular fitting to install an elbow. I wa
  6. Nice job with the cross member mods. I looked at mine and figured it would require tubing mods as I didn't have room to move it 8 inches back from where it was for my 4l60. Hopefully the g force one will work properly. Do you have any info on what mods you did to make your 4l85 fit the tunnel? I'm looking at making an fittings with elbows to connect an trans cooling lines. Might have to make some dimples in the tunnel for them still. Have definite issues with the speed sensor connection. Trans is at 5° so tough to leave it at that angle. Without adding some height where the
  7. I should have searched this out before but I just bought a trans crossmember from G- Force to fit my TCI 6X conversion ( 4l80 ). Should be here 1/20 so will provide info here if it works or not.
  8. colonel

    BB Headers

    ARH said they only guarantee the fit on stock heads only. Tried to see from pictures submitted if my aluminum heads that have 3/8 inch raised exhaust ports would pose a problem. Pics on page 2 that show them in the car are 1 7/8" and I would get 2" but looks like only areas to be concerned with are rear A arm area on p side for first and second tube and tube steering shaft on drivers side. Anyone have fitment info for raised exhaust port and 2" primaries?
  9. Well I contacted Optima and after a few emails back and forth the official response was not something they have seen before thus are not concerned about it. There are some hits when you search Optima battery leak and one I found had the same problem but was on a red top version. They did offer me a 20% discount on a new one ordered from their website but they don't deliver them to Canada so can't take advantage of that if I even wanted to. I do have the discount code though so if anyone in the states want to order a battery through their website contact me and I can provide the code.
  10. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IvOZPDkcYpqZ0FNuDYwCVZCvsv509n7f/view?usp=drivesdk I have had this yellow top battery for about 6 years. Just recently I bought a fancy aluminum top for it before going to the First Generation Monte Carlo Meet in Penticton in June. On the trip I drove trough about 8 hours of rain and found some damage to the top of it when I got there when I got to cleaning the car for the show. Couldn't understand why but there it was and I coudn't do anything about it so satisfied myself with rinsing the area with extra water. Next day I put my trickle charger o
  11. Cameron from Reno has offered to transport the new rad so it has been ordered and should get to his home early next week. Thanks all. I am really looking forward to this meet that I want to leave tomm............given my history I may need the extra time to get there but with the rad on the way I am minimizing my chances of issues. Yeahh! Also making Sandy a bit more comfortable about the trip. Me too I guess. See y'all soon EH!
  12. Well I haven't really explained the whole situation to her until now but she trusts my judgement. I am confident in it's mechanical condition but can't forsee these odd issues so am wlling to take the chance. I am sure the factory 3 core will work fine unless it gets, and stays in the high 20 - 30's. Right now the 14 day outlook says it will get into the mid to high 20's on the 19th but cool off to single digits at night so that should be OK. It was those mid - high 30's with night temps staying around 20 that caused the problems in the past. I would still like to have an aluminum rad
  13. OK. Either my luck is changing and my mysterious Monte issues are happening before the meet so I can fix them at home or it isn't changing and there are more to come. Latest issue is leaking aluminum rad. Can't locate the leak as it only seems to leak when its warm. It has been pressured up for 2 days and not a single a drip. There are a couple rub marks on the pass side tank at the bottom but no leaks there. Noticed the tubes get more and more crowned as you go up the rad. Not sure how that happened but I suspect when it gets hot it twists or twearks in such a way it opens somewhere an
  14. With another winter of mysterious issues with the Monte behind me..........again, and one minor issue since I got it running again this spring I am confident enough to make a bold prediction. I will not get the hard luck award or even be in the running this year. I am certain it will be smooth sailing at this years event for my car. Looking forward to it more everyday.
  15. Is the record still at the 25 cars we had there in 2017?
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