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colonel

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About colonel

Dues paying 10+ years
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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton, Alberta Canada
  • Interests
    Muscle cars, sports, travel
  • Legal Name
    Kevin Dyck
  • Occupation
    Refrigeration Technician

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  1. Well I contacted Optima and after a few emails back and forth the official response was not something they have seen before thus are not concerned about it. There are some hits when you search Optima battery leak and one I found had the same problem but was on a red top version. They did offer me a 20% discount on a new one ordered from their website but they don't deliver them to Canada so can't take advantage of that if I even wanted to. I do have the discount code though so if anyone in the states want to order a battery through their website contact me and I can provide the code.
  2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IvOZPDkcYpqZ0FNuDYwCVZCvsv509n7f/view?usp=drivesdk I have had this yellow top battery for about 6 years. Just recently I bought a fancy aluminum top for it before going to the First Generation Monte Carlo Meet in Penticton in June. On the trip I drove trough about 8 hours of rain and found some damage to the top of it when I got there when I got to cleaning the car for the show. Couldn't understand why but there it was and I coudn't do anything about it so satisfied myself with rinsing the area with extra water. Next day I put my trickle charger on it and set the black plastic cap I have covering the negative top post terminal on top of the aluminum cover. When I went to remove the charger and put the cap back on I found another ring of damage from the cap. Scratching of the head again, rinsed the area and didn't set the cap on the cover again so no more damage noticed. I thought these batteries were dry for some reason but their claim to fame it that they are sealed as there is acid/water in them but they just can't be filled or leak. Had further car issues once I was home so didn't drive it again until I got some things checked out then cleaned up the car for a local car show of a fellow FGMCC member July 13. When I did I found even more stuff going on down there so doused the area with baking soda water and rinsed and dried the area throughly and drove off to the car show. Noticed some other white spots below the battery once I got there so wiped that up and made a point of digging into this when I got home. Pulled off the black cap that covers the negative terminal and got some liquid on my finger that stung so I instantly realized there was an acid leak that somehow got under the cap. Backed the car out of the garage and did the baking soda thing again and took a very close look at that terminal and you see what I found in the video. Pulled the car back in the garage and pulled out the battery and set it on some wood. Those top post terminals have either had the plastic caps on them or the clamps for the trickle charger so don't see how anything could have damaged the post. Totally bizarre to me. What you think?
  3. Cameron from Reno has offered to transport the new rad so it has been ordered and should get to his home early next week. Thanks all. I am really looking forward to this meet that I want to leave tomm............given my history I may need the extra time to get there but with the rad on the way I am minimizing my chances of issues. Yeahh! Also making Sandy a bit more comfortable about the trip. Me too I guess. See y'all soon EH!
  4. Well I haven't really explained the whole situation to her until now but she trusts my judgement. I am confident in it's mechanical condition but can't forsee these odd issues so am wlling to take the chance. I am sure the factory 3 core will work fine unless it gets, and stays in the high 20 - 30's. Right now the 14 day outlook says it will get into the mid to high 20's on the 19th but cool off to single digits at night so that should be OK. It was those mid - high 30's with night temps staying around 20 that caused the problems in the past. I would still like to have an aluminum rad in there anyways so is there anyone with room for a new rad that can bring one up when they come?? I would order and ship to your location so all you need is the willingness to bring it with you and the room to do it of course.
  5. OK. Either my luck is changing and my mysterious Monte issues are happening before the meet so I can fix them at home or it isn't changing and there are more to come. Latest issue is leaking aluminum rad. Can't locate the leak as it only seems to leak when its warm. It has been pressured up for 2 days and not a single a drip. There are a couple rub marks on the pass side tank at the bottom but no leaks there. Noticed the tubes get more and more crowned as you go up the rad. Not sure how that happened but I suspect when it gets hot it twists or twearks in such a way it opens somewhere and leaks until it cools down. Got the factory rad in there again and it seems to keep things cool but it is only 18C and Penticton was 35C last time so the possibility of issues is increasing. It's $100 to get an estimate on a repair if they even can repair it and there is no availablity here for the correct replacement. Ordering one from the US to get here in time for the meet would add $150 US to the $240 - $340 US price. Here we go again.
  6. With another winter of mysterious issues with the Monte behind me..........again, and one minor issue since I got it running again this spring I am confident enough to make a bold prediction. I will not get the hard luck award or even be in the running this year. I am certain it will be smooth sailing at this years event for my car. Looking forward to it more everyday.
  7. Is the record still at the 25 cars we had there in 2017?
  8. Very nice shot of the valley Aaron. Such a picturesque place. Looking forward to it more each time I check on this. Darren, I wonder if a 72 Monte got #72. That would be kind of neat for the 3 of us to be side by side in the show. You don't have that car you had at the last show anymore? The all original one except for 1 fan belt and the tires?
  9. Got confirmation email yesterday and I have the same car number as the last show here. #70. Anybody else get the same number?
  10. Just got an email saying registration open for the meet. We are registered for the meet under the FGMCC category.
  11. Sandy and I got our confirmation and are booked in for the 19th to 24th, second in from the pool right next to Aaron. See y'all soon...............well sort of.
  12. That is totally awesome that it was made to showcase our cars and amazing that it survived and is making it around to car shows again.
  13. For documentation sake I have finally solved my Hydraboost Issues and have been able to drive the car a couple times now. I had the driveshaft worked on by a different company and they found excess weight on the driveshaft and it had .018" of runout at the front, .022 in the middle and .008 at the back. So the previous company tried to balance it without adjusting the runout. It now has .01, .008, .006 respectively and only 1.5 onunces of weight on it rather the 4-5 ounces. I am sure that would have made a difference all on it's own but I also changed the pinion angle to 2.25 degrees up. That moved the trans to 2.4 degrees down now and the driveshaft has a small angle down towards the pinion. At 60-70 MPH there is no vibration at all where before there was a steady surge of it coming in and out. Really unexpected thing with this is the rear main seal in my new engine is no longer leaking like a siv. There are no 3" puddles under the car anymore overnight. Seems like that was a far worse problem than I believed and am very glad it has been fixed before causing me any further failures or issues.
  14. That is a good article. I haven't seen it before. I measured the trans at the edge of the tailshaft housing. You can't measure the shaft as it moves and will obviously alter the readings. You can also measure the balancer pulley unless you suspect it is bent a bit but it should give the same angle. Pinion and driveshaft are measured as they do in the article. Spoke with Global West and they suggested to start with pinion at 0 and see what happens with the vibration. Ideally the angle should be equal but opposite or as you said earlier within 1 degree. The driveshaft will be what ever it is. The other thing to consider is how much applying power would cause the pinion angle to move. Perhaps I should move it to 2 degrees up. At sruising speed it may move up to 2.8 and be equal. With regular rubber bushing it would certainly move more than with the setup I have but don't know how much. Perhaps with rubber bushing keeping it at 0 degrees would be OK That is why I was asking for what the angles are in a more or less factory setup. I could have measured mine before the mods but too late now. Can't make an educated guess without knowing those numbers so hopefully someone can supply them.
  15. So you are suggesting I change the pinion angle to 1.8 degrees down to get rid of the vibration? You don't have what to original angles are though?
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