dejh22
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Posts posted by dejh22
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I got the rocker molding off, kind of nerve racking. One of my questions is what is the rear screw suppose to be screwed into. Mine was screwed into silicone or something like that.
If I remember right, there is a push in plastic pc that the screw, screws into.
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Prayers to you and your family.
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Chris, The aftermarket brackets came with a whole aluminum kit I bought off ebay. The kit came with pulleys, alternator and power steering brackets, alternator, power steering pump and water pump. You can buy just the power steering brackets also. Only thing is the kit did not come with any directions. Had to figure out how the brackets went on....no fun! The black brackets were on a mid 80's 454.
What you could do is do a search on ebay and look for Chevy big block power steering pump brackets.
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I found this pic online. This is what the setup would look like.
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Ok check that lol! The brackets I posted where for a small block. These came off my big block 454.
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I think these are the stock power steering pump brackets. I'm not sure because at the same time I was working on a small block power steering setup on a 70 Monte.
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I have a 396 ( Big Block ) but I have an after market set up. Not sure if this will help or not.
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Dale, thanks for sharing video as I am not sure what kind of adhesive to use?
I used silicone. In the video I believe they used 3M weather strip adhesive.
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Curious if Dale could send me video too? I am going to work on them during winter.
I sent the video link to you. Not sure if I'm allowed to post video links on the forum.
Just wanted to add the video is a Chevelle, but the concept is the same.
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I would focus on the carb. Double check to make sure there isn't a vacuum leak around the base of the carb. When you say adjust the carb how was that performed? Did you use a vacuum gauge, or adjust it by ear?
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Just had new carrier and gears put in a 1972 and 1971 Monte Carlo. Both had stock 12 bolt rears with 273 gears. Both were 30 spline axles. I believe 10 bolt rears are 28 spline.
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That's sounds strange. So when the timing mark is at 0, is the rotor pointing at number 6? I know nothing about timing lights. I always time by vacuum gauge. Most people think I'm nuts but I have done it that way for 30 yrs. I disconnect the power to the distributor pull number one plug. Then I take a paper towel bunch it up and push it into the spark plug hole bump the starter until the paper towel pops out. Check the distributer to see where the rotor is pointing. If it is not pointing at number one I pull up the distributor and turn it till the rotor is pointing at number 1. It may not drop down all the way but that is ok. I put the paper towel back in the speak plug hole and bump it around again until I hear it pop out again. Check the rotor and sure enough it is pointing at number one and distributer is all the way in. Then play with the distributer until I can get it to stay running. I then advance the timing until I get the highest reading and back it off an inch. I also use a vacuum gauge to set the carb. Most the time it is really close. If I get a little spark knock I will back off the timing a little.
I just built a 396 for our 71 Monte SS clone. First start was done as described above. It has a larger cam and max vacuum was 16 inches after the carb was dialed in. I backed the timing to 15 inches. It runs great there. It starts fine, accelerates great no spark knock. I also dialed in my soon to be son inlaw's 70 Monte with a 355 we rebuilt for it. It also has a larger cam.
I also have a 71 Monte (my profile pic) with a 383 I built about 10 yrs ago. It is dialed in the same way. My son's 72 Monte with a 355 with a mild cam, he dial it in using the same method.
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The firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. Are saying that number one wire is at the number 6 position on the cap? If that is the case you can have the number one wire start anywhere on the cap. That is as long as the rotor is pointing at the number one wire wherever it is on the cap as long as number one cylinder is TDC.
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I just tell my friends- it's not leaking, it's sweating horsepower!!!
Well I thought I had it fixed. The next day it started leaking a drip or two again from the same location. I guess maybe I should of changed the rear seal while the pan was off. Just going to live with it now.
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes an HEI for a Chevy. Correct on the 12v wire. Yes there is a connection for the a Tachometer. It is right next to the connection for the ignition wire. You will need to have # 1 cylinder on top dead center and make sure the rotor in pointing at #1 cylinder. Then run your spark plug wires with #1 wire being closest to the terminal that is in line with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. Run your spark plug wires clockwise 18436572. The you will need to time it. Timing light or the way I do it by vacuum gauge.
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Looks to me that it is running a little rich. I have seen worse.
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The pan gasket showed up today. What I did was apply a very thin coating of high tack permatex sealer around the bottom of the block. Just enough so just the outside of the gasket will be making contact with it. I let it firm up a little then put the gasket in. The engine is still in the car so to hold it in place I put all the bolts back in to apply pressure and hold the gasket in place. I'm going to leave it for today. Next I will back out the bolts and use studs hoping the high tack sealer does it's job and holds the gasket in place. I will them apply rtv in the corners and maybe around the timing chain cover in the front of the gasket. It is an after market timing chain cover and the front oil pan gasket doesn't fit real snug around the bottom of the cover. That is what was done the fist time and the front did not leak. Then let it sit for a day. I hope this works because I'm off my meds and I might cuss! LOL!
The high tack sealer did not work. Did not hold the gasket in place. So I used a thin coat of contact cement on the block and the gasket. Worked well for holding it in place. I put a little RTV in the corners and a thin coat of RTV on the front seal front and back side none on the bottom of the front seal. I started the corner bolts and the started from the center of the pan and worked from side to side working outward. Then went back and tighten them in the same method. Let it set for a day. Happy to report started it up tonight and NO LEAKS!
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Definitely use rtv in the corners. I'm having the same problem at the moment. Engine leaked a little at first, tightened the bolts down and made it worse. I didn't use rtv on the oil pan at all and now I'm kicking myself.
I just wish there was a "standard" way of installing a one pc oil pan gasket. I'm not joking, I spent hours researching online. Came up with nothing concrete. Your a fool if you use rtv and your a fool not to. Use a little, use a lot. +
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The pan gasket showed up today. What I did was apply a very thin coating of high tack permatex sealer around the bottom of the block. Just enough so just the outside of the gasket will be making contact with it. I let it firm up a little then put the gasket in. The engine is still in the car so to hold it in place I put all the bolts back in to apply pressure and hold the gasket in place. I'm going to leave it for today. Next I will back out the bolts and use studs hoping the high tack sealer does it's job and holds the gasket in place. I will them apply rtv in the corners and maybe around the timing chain cover in the front of the gasket. It is an after market timing chain cover and the front oil pan gasket doesn't fit real snug around the bottom of the cover. That is what was done the fist time and the front did not leak. Then let it sit for a day. I hope this works because I'm off my meds and I might cuss! LOL!
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When I installed my one pc gasket I put RTV on the corners only and no leaks. One thing I id have trouble with was getting the gasket on correctly. I had forgotten about making sure that the oil filler tube went thru the hole int he one pc. After cussing sand discussing with my self for a couple of hours I found why I could not get the gasket in place. Easy fix after that minor snafu was corrected.
Did you put the rtv on the block corners or the gasket after it was on the block? Or both? Thanks
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I put less then 50 miles on my rebuilt 396 and have an oil pan leak. It is in the rear of the pan. At first it was just a small drip when running. So I tighten the rear bolts just a little. Well I managed to make it worse. I know that might happen but I wanted to try to see if that would work.
I have the pan out and have ordered a one pc Felpro oil pan gasket. I'm not really knowing what is the correct method to install the gasket. I have spent the last few days online looking what others have done. I think it is a toss up. Some swear by rtv and others say dry. Also I see where it is advised to just add a small amount in the corners. I read that the small amount should be on the block and then the gasket and I have read the gasket goes on and the rtv goes on top of the gasket corners. I also viewed a youtube video where a "builder" used a bead of rtv all around the block and a bead all the the gasket and bolted the pan down. He said he had done it this way for years and never a leak.
My head is spinning. What to do? LOL!
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Dale, I can't think of a better way for a father and son to really get to know each other and bond than sharing an interest in working on old cars. Many people here know that my first car was (and I still own her) a 1929 Tudor Sedan Model A Ford. When I found the car and told my father about it he told me that his first car was a 1929 Model A Ford Tudor Sedan. My dad would do what he had to do on cars but working on them was never his favorite thing to do (he and my mom had a lot on their hands raising 4 kids and working the activities we all wanted to do) butt when we brought this car home he and I, with the help of some friends had that car completely disassembled the same weekend we brought it home.
He was a great source of information on what was original and what was not on that car. I cherish the memories of his helping me on that car and it so warmed my heart to see the smile on his face with every milestone I met while I restored that car. Enjoy the time you spend with your son on these cars and I promise he will have fond memories for the rest of his life.
rob
That is awesome. My dad and I worked on a couple Chevelles. Both were 67's.
To be honest my son is living in Taiwan. The plan was for us to restore this car together. But now he is going to be there two more years. I have Parkinson's and don't know what kind of shape I will be in two years from now. So I started the restore with the help of my daughter and her boyfriend. Soon to be son in law. This car will be my son's. My daughter will be the owner of my other 71 Monte Carlo. My son has his 72 Monte stored here. My soon to be son in law has a 70 Monte we are working on right now also.
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Thank You. I watched a lot of youtube videos. It is like having an instructor right there with you.
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Did the interior myself. Not perfect but I'm a first timer. The 396 is in just need to hook everything up.
Moulding Retainers
in General Tech
Posted
I think these are the plastic pc for the screws.