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dejh22

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Posts posted by dejh22

    454 Create Engine

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    After doing some online investigation. I find they made hydraulic roller lifters with no link bars. Maybe that is what is in this engine?  I also found this write up

     

    Gen 6:  GM recognized that it did not make any friends when it designed the Gen 5, and so they chose to revise the coolant passages again when designing the Gen 6, allowing the older heads to be used without coolant seepage problems. The boss for the clutch bracket returned, but was generally not drilled and tapped.  The non-adjustable valvetrain remained, as did the one-piece rear main seal.  Some but not all Gen 6 454 (and not 502) blocks regained a mechanical fuel pump provision.  Production engines installed in pickup trucks got a high-efficiency cylinder head, still canted-valve, but with a modern heart-shaped combustion chamber of about 100cc.  The intake port has a "ski jump" cast into it to promote swirling of the intake air flow.  All production vehicles with a Gen 6 used a 454 version, but over-the-counter 502s are available.  The Gen 6 is sometimes referred to as the "Gen Fix" because it fixed a number of issues that disappointed enthusiasts when the Gen 5 was released.  As an added bonus, most if not all Gen 6 engines use hydraulic roller lifters.


     

    454 Create Engine

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Thanks Tim. When I took the valve cover off I could see that it did not have retainers or spiders. The rockers are stamped steel with a bolt and not a nut. Unless I don't know what I'm looking at (which is very possible) it appears to me that it has  "regular" lifters. 

     

    I just went out and looked again. If it had retains would ther not be a bolt or screw to hold them in place? I do not see anything like that.

     

     

    I think what I would like to do is rebuild the top end as like the 454 H.O., but with aluminum heads.

     

    Dale

    454 Create Engine

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Just picked up a 71 Monte from a member on here. It has a 454 create engine. The casting number is 12550313. Looked it up and this is what it says,

    12550313...454.......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V crate motor, Gen. VI 4.25" bare block, fuel pump boss

     

    It does have the fuel pump boss and 6 bolt timing chain cover. So that makes it a Gen 6.

     

    It has casting number 10114156 iron heads. It also has an iron intake. I think also it has non adjustable rockers on it. Someone told me it should be a roller cam. I don't think it is because when I pulled the Valve cover I could see down in the lifter valley and it looked to me like regular lifters.  

     

    My question is it a roller cam? Has any one built a Gen 6 454 and what parts did you use? I want to lighten it up by using aluminum heads and intake. I figure if I go that far why not go all out with a roller cam. Only problem is I have very little knowledge with BBC's engines, let alone all the newer parts as in roller cams and such. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

     

    Dale!

    Bleeding a new master

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    I pulled it back off and bled it in a vice. Pretty sure the master is good but there is massive air in the lines. I think I will start a gravity bleed tonight. Should I do one line at a time or should I do both rears at the same time?

    I tried to gravity bleed mine. I opened all the bleeders. It sat all day and nothing! It might of been because I did not bleed the master? From what I have read you open all bleeders and wait and wait a long time. 

    Bleeding a new master

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    I just put new brake lines and porpotioning valve on my 71. The master cylinder and the whole system was bone dry. I filled the master and had a helper pump the brakes 5 times and hold it. I opened the bleeder starting on the right rear. I would close the bleeder and tell my helper to let up on the pedal. Then pump 5 more times and repeat. I did this until I got a straight stream of brake fluid. Then I moved on to the left rear, then the right front and then the left front. I would make sure the master stayed full of fluid. The brake pedal is firm, brakes work good. I did not bench bleed the master. Had I bench bled the master I would of save some fluid.

     

    Dale

    • Like 1

    Brake Lines

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    Well, the new lines are on. I'm glad I went with the pre bent lines. Had some trouble with the rear line where it connects in the back above the axle. I could not get it to line up. After saying (yelling) some choice words I did get it to screw together. I still have to bleed the system. I'm hoping that goes smooth. But I have this "funny" feeling. :unsure: 

    Engine Build

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    I forgot to say, I'm putting one together for my son. I had the block crank and rods. I bought the camel hump heads, cam, oil pump, Intake, carb, water pump, aluminum pulleys and brackets, after market stock type oil pan and timing chain cover, timing chain gears, overhaul gasket set, lifters, new stock rocker arms, push rods and other odds and ends. I do not have the total of the machine work yet. After all is said and done he will have a nice looking 355 with all new parts for about $2500. That could go north, depends on the machine work.

     

    Dale

    • Like 1

    Engine Build

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Depends on how much money you want to spend. Also if you will be running this at the drag strip? If you are looking for some get up and go power and a good street machine I have a combo I and friends have used for years. We take a 350 block like you have and bore it .030 over. Which now makes it a 355. All blocks have been two bolt mains. The intake you have is good as is the carb. I would use  64 cc heads ( camel hump heads cast # 461 or 462's) with flat top pistons.  This combo will give you close to 10-1 compression. You will be able to use pump gas. I always use premium. The cam I use is a comp cam 268h. Plus I use a high vol. oil pump.

     

    To help the cause, some good rear end gears are helpful. I'm running a 355 gear. Like I said this is a good budget build. With lots of low end torque. I'm not sure what HP this combo produces, never had one on a dyno. My guess is some where north of 350 hp.

     

    Now if you are looking for something to really  turn some HP, there are others on here that can help you more then I can!

     

    Dale

    • Like 1

    Brake Lines

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    If you order the complete brake line kit from Inline (part# CMB7102 7 pc kit)) you specify if you want stainless (@ $175) or or OE steel (@ $145) the master cylinder lines are included.  The master cylinder lines are connected with a bracket to the power brake booster mount.  It is not easy to see or get your hands on.  I couldn't figure what was holding them on myself until I pulled the booster and master off the car.  It is alot easier if the inner fender is removed.Thanks

    Thanks. I will be ordering the steel lines. The lines from the master cylinder are in good shape. I'm just going to let them stay. I already replaced the proportioning valve. I was reading an older post on here about the proportioning valve sensor wire plug was different. They stated that they took a razor and cut back the boot. So I did that and took a pair of pliers and squeezed the connector together and it worked. Pushed and snapped right in. Seems to be a good connection, Time will tell. 

    Brake Lines

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    Well, going to return the kit I just bought. I just don't think I want to attempt  to bend all the lines. I'm now going to order a pre bent line kit from inline. The good news the old brake lines are off. I did not remove the master cylinder lines. Not sure but I think they are bolted some how behind the brake booster? They seem to be solid so should be fine. 

    Oil leaks, where to start?

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    You said it was a new rebuild. Do you know if it is an after market oil pan? I ask because where the timing chain cover and the oil pan come together there is a "horse shoe" rubber seal. There is a thin one and a thicker one. Most all after market oil pans use the thicker seal. Then again some stock pans use the thinker one also. If the wrong seal was used it will leak. Here is how to check...

     

    Place a straight edge across the pan rails measure down to the bottom of the lip of the oil pan. If the measurement  is 2 3/8", use the thick seal, if the measurement is 2 1/4", use the thin seal
    They made a seal change, thinking the thicker seal would seal better.

     

    Dale

    • Like 1

    Brake Lines

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    I was looking under my 71 Monte today. I noiiced some moisture on the driver side frame at the very front. It is right below the proportioning valve. The valve is not wet. it is the line that runs to the back. It is hard to tell exactly where because the line is wrapped I a steal coil cover.

     I found some line on ebay, "Copper Nickel Brake Line" It is 3/16 O.D. My question is does anyone know if that is the correct size? I plan on doing the one line to the back for now, but would like to gather all the correct fittings and correct size line or is there another size also? I only do a little at a time because I have Parkinson's and can't knock out projects like I use to. So If anyone could help me put a list together, I would really appreciate it.

     

    Thanks

    Dale

    engine upgrade help

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Years ago when I rebuilt the 350 in my 71 Monte had it bored .30 over (355). I went with a 270 comp cam. Edlebrook  performer intake. I also went with hooker headers and a Holley 750 equal bore carb. Forged aluminum flat top pistons. I had a pair of camel hump heads (461 casting number) which is about a 64cc head and 194 valves. So I was at about  10:1 compression.  I had a 350 transmission with a shift kit. The torque converter was a little larger than standard. I went with 355 gears. I tuned it  (carb and timing) with a vacuum gauge. It ran just fine on pump gas. No problems with vacuum.

     

    Just as a side note...About 8 years ago I built a 383 for it. I like the original rebuild (355) better.  Just my 2 cents worth :D  

     

    Dale

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