BigBlockMonte

Thats the plan, bowtie did tell me it will live alot longer, if the car doesn't hook and spins, which it will do on the street anyway.

To be very honest with everyone. I will probably go to the track only once to get an idea of what the car will do in the 1/4 mile. At the most twice. The track is over an hour away, and with my 2year old daughter, I see us doing all cruising around town, goin to car cruises, highway driving and such. However when she is not with me (rarely). I wont be able to resist some spirited driving on the straightaways, getting the highway, taking a friend for a ride. So all in all, I'm goin to be an honest 90% car cruise, highway driving, cruising around town, 8% spirited driving when I dont have my daughter, 2% making the drive up to the track. I'm goin to give the 850 vac secondary carb a try, the way Chris talks this engine should be very responsive, unlike the last engine which was a little lazy down low. If I feel the carb is not up to par, I'll look into the carb you suggested to me in the previous post. I actually feel like I kinda over did it on the engine, being its goin to be a street cruiser for the most part, but the drag racer in me (from previous years) wanted to know, that it will have something there waiting to be unleashed when I am able to step into it. I was on a budget with the engine, but that has long passed, For now I'll get her together, she how she does, then over the winter make the decision for the upcoming year on my thoughts on the tranny situation. I think with the tranny being the weak part on the set-up and me not wanting to break it, it will keep me behaving & careful with everything. As always though Thank you for the opinions.

Chris is telling me this thing will have excellent low end, very crispy throttle response, sound good, and will be a rocket. I told him I wanted to do atleast 115 to 118 mph. He tells me with this cam, I should do 120+ in the 1/4. Im excited to know what its going to do as well. I feel you on the spiral outta control expenses. I acutally went about 1500.00 over the budget. I'll slowly get it back, but I feel long as the combo comes together and runs the way I want, it will be well spent.

Camshaft came today. I'm excited. Didn't receive the lifters yet. Maybe tomm. Once I get them, I'll get this thing degreed in. Then friday finish assembling the heads at the machine shop, check pushrod length, call Chris back and have him send the correct length, She's coming together. I think I also may have sold my air-gap, so I'll be looking to get the victor jr like chris straub advised me to. I'm about ready to stand on the corner to pay for all this. (I might be able to buy a quart of oil by the days ends)

Thanks guys for the info and opinions. Since money at the moment is pretty much done, and winter will be here soon. Im gonna roll with the bowtie until winter, then decide on which way to go. Looking around the net, I found a guy (art carr) that suppose to building these 200's to handle 1000hp. Not sure how accurate that is. I was actually getting used to the car without the overdrive and 3.73 gear. If worse comes to worse and I run into bad luck with breaking the 200. It may be aliitle cheaper to build up a TH400 or 350, and go back to not doin the Overdrive. Its a speculation right now, For the next few months, I'll cruise it around, and come time to put it away, I'll figure out the best move. This way since it will be winter, I wont be gunhoe wanting to drive the car. Right now, I'm pretty antsy to drive her.

Cam specs will be 643/612, 234/243 @50 108 Lobe Seperation. I'm gonna have to reteach myself how to drive the car now. That and I hear this motor will probably be knocking on 600HP & Torque's door. What kinda sucks now is, the New Stage 2 Bowtie 2004r trans I have says its good to 450-500 HP/ 400-450 Torque. Drag racing with slicks is going to be out for awhile. I could send it back. For an additional $800.00 to make it a stage 3. What really sucks is it's $300.00 to make it stronger. and $500.00 to get it shipped there and back home.

I was looking at two camshaft from howards first one was a 634/640 lift 237/243@ 50 110 LSA 2nd one was a 640/640 243/249 @50 110 LSA Not sure on exact numbers just yet from Chris but in the neighborhood of: 650/620 234/242@50 108 LSA I think I was kinda in the right frame of mind. But I'll know exact numbers when I unwrap it. The big stuff is mostly done. I got an Eagle 496 Rotating assembly, Forged Crank, H Beam Rod, & Probe Forged Pistons, The Pro-Comp Heads have been completely gutted, all that is pro-comp now is the casting. Howards springs, retainers, severe duty stainless valves, comp locks, comp valve seals, new bronze guides, etc. Still need to get pushrods, (Well those are coming from Chris too) just need to get exact length, fuel pump pushrod, distributor (got my eye on the MSD 8365), Gaskets (Head, Intake, Exhuast, Oil Pan, Timing etc)Timing Chain & Gear. I think if Chris carries all this stuff, I'll just get everything from him instead of jumping all around different places. Think thats about it. Chris suggest I run a Victor Jr intake manifold. Currently I have a Air Gap, I may do it, if I can sell my Air Gap.

Camshaft from Chris Straub is ordered. Should be here in a week or so. Getting close to completion for this engine. I'm excited.

I came back on to apologize. You guys are great in giving advise. I had/have alot on my plate, and dealing with the car and wishing things were different frustrated me. I calmed down and thought about everything, and decided to send Chris Straub an email. Since a little good luck has come my way in the form of a engine job on an Eagle Talon, I should have enough money to purchase a camshaft & lifters from Chris. His cam specs seem to make the most sense to me, I'm looking to place my order this Monday. Again I am apologizing, I didn't mean to get upset and want to call it quits. I got my chevelle because of my father (RIP), So I'm sticking with it.

$1200.00 for a camshaft, lifters & pushrods is way out of my range. This howards Camshaft will be $566.00 for cam & lifters, $600.00 if I choose to use the better lifters from them (91161) instead of their 91167 lifters. Summit sells the same cam & lifters for $519.00 And I know pushrods are not goin to be $600.00, So as much as its better to do a custom cam, $1200.00 vs Maybe $700.00 or more. Thats a big enough difference for me to do off the shelf. Feeling like I shoulda stayed with the damn imports. I went faster (alot faster) for less money. So thanks for the help, I probably wont be back

okay, They do make the first cam on a 110 Lobe Seperation. I really would love to do a custom cam, with my budget, I just can't. I'm settling for the off the shelf cam, as thats all I can afford right now. and barely doin that. I'm not ready for the cam just yet, Its goin to be one of the last things I buy, So maybe between now and then something will come up to help my finances. But for now, If It doesnt go the way of a custom cam, Do you feel this off the shrlf cam (The 1st One) cut on a 110 LSA will be alright. I'm sure it won't run its best, but it should run pretty good.

Hey All The Motor in the chevelle has died, It dropped a valve at 4k or so. I've decided to do another complete engine. The engine I'm building now is going to be a 489/496 stroker. I saved what I could from the previous engine, So this will be the new engine specs. 71 Chevelle 489/496 CI (2 Bolt Main) Pro Comp Heads (320cc) 2.25/1.88 Valves (I removed all the pro-comp hardware, and having my machine shop use other parts), Compression should be around 10:1 to 10:3 Air Gap Intake 850 Vac Sec Carb 3/8th Fuel line from tank to carb Hooker Comp Headers 2"tubes into 3.5 collector, then 3" mandrel bend exhuast out the back. Flowmaster 44series mufflers. 3900lbs w/me in it Bowtie Stage 2 2004r trans CK performance 2800-3000 stall 3.73 posi rear w/ 28" tall tire I'm looking at a few camshafts but the whole lift/duration with 320cc heads is giving me a headache. With the size heads and other components, I'm not sure if I need a high lift, lower duration cam, or high lift, longer duration cam, or if I need a lower lift/lower duration. I envy you guys that have this all figured out. Here's two or the cams I'm looking at. 120265-12 .634 .640 237 243 .634 .640 112 Hyd. Hyd. Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 2600-6500 Lopey idle, hot street & bracket racing. 10.0:1+ CR advised. This is the other one: 121615-12 .640 .640 296 308 243 255 112 Hyd. Hyd. Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 3000-6600 Lopey idle, excellent mid to top end power. 10.0:1+ CR, 3200+ stall. These are both Howrards Cams HYD rollers. I'll be goin with the MAX effort Howards Lifters, and springs suggested by them. The car will never see above 6k, Am I in the right ballpark for choosing a camshaft for this 489/496 stroker. It's goin to be a 90% street car, with alot of spirited driving, and maybe if there is anytime, I'd like to go the track once or twice to see what it will do.

Yes it does come close. So I removed it before hand, and I noticed the cap & rotor had seen better days. I replaced it with one I had laying around because at first I thought that was the problem. I ended up buying a new distributor to find out it was doing the same thing. So now she has a new dist, new plugs (because I had thought at first maybe I broke one when removing the passenger header), new vacuum lines, sprayed carb & choke cleaner at all vacuum locations. I did find a baby leak at the base of the carb. I was excited thinking that was the issue, Fixed it. The driveabilty seemed to improve, (but that could be in my head), and it still wont idle in gear without feathering the throttle. I don't anything about lock up converters, so I don't know if is is locked up at idle and releasing during driving I dont know. I do know, I have hooked & unhooked the lock up with no changes. So what else would cause the car to one day its running fine with the TH350. Take it out to put in the OD trans, and now all of a sudden it doesn't idle in gear. You would have to think its something to do with the converter right? Its something trans related. Has to be. So if there are any tricks to fixing it without removing, believe me I am all ears and ready to go. But I honestly think I may have a goofy converter on my hands, especially since it been sitting for several years without driving. For all I know the guy broke in the motor with the converter low or dry. When I installed it, I seen fluid in the converter, but it still took 9quarts to fill everything up, and I don't have a deep trans pan, its your basic 2004r trans pan.

I don't what kinda issues I'm having. All I know is I removed one tranny one day. car was doing great. Next day I put this one in, and now I have issues. Its tempting to take the 2004r back out. Put in the TH350 to conclude once and for all its the trans/converter causing this issue. And not timing, carb issues, etc. There were no problems pre-2004r. So something has to be up with this new trans or converter. This was suppose to be a good experience for me,

I'll never laugh. I'll try anything to keep me from spending money and having to yank this trans back out again. I'll give it a shot tomm, So your saying if the car stays ideling without my foot on the brake, I have developed a leak at the brake booster. Like I said, I'll give it a try tomm. Thanks for the tip.