Will

Im using a Summit Protorque Mini Starter. I've seen the circular shims that go behind the mounting block to adjust engagement depth. I looked at the instructions you posted Mike, that makes sense. Im just worried that to disengage I have to literally pound it with the handle of the screwdriver. That seems a bit much. I may just buy a new starter. Just trying to avoid it as my budget for this kind of ran out. haha

Im gonna go at it again next weekend. Thanks very much for the insight David, anything helps. Guys like you who have experienced this are why I love this forun so much.

1st plate was a Scat SFI rated 168 tooth. New plate is a TCI SFI approved. Heres the link. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=90&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=890-399473 The starter gear isnt showing any wear at all.

So I have the snowball rolling and things are going well. EXCEPT for my mini starter. Previously I installed it and it did ok, some random fowl noises. Was on for about 200 miles. pulled the drivetrain and found a 6 inch chunk of flywheel chewed up. Starter is for 153 or 168 tooth flywheels. Replaced flywheel to be safe. But no matter what combination of shims I use when I pull the bendix out to check for fit, it sticks to the flywheel to the point that I have to hit it back in with my screw driver. They spring wont retract it. Im using the mounting holes to move the starter as far to the passenger side as possible but it looks like it still need to go just a hair further. Am I just retarded or something? Any thoughts would help. Thanks

So now that I have my space between the trans and the tunnel I decided it was time to install my new pro stick. I wasnt completely sure how to get the mounting holes exact so I decided to wing it. The instructions said use a 9/32 drill bit to drill the holes. But it wont fit through the holes in the bracket, so I went just a bit smaller. I tested the movement of the shifter till I found where I wanted it to go. and then just held it in place while I drilled the holes. The down side of my technique is with the carpet and fatmat I got a drillbit that looked like this. But could be worse I suppose. Once I got the shifter semi mounted it was time for the hole for the cable. Being a front exit cable I mounted it into the shifter and pressed it against the floor to guesstimate where to drill. Then I just drilled a small hole and progressively opened it up. As I tried to run the cable I found that even with the cross member off and the lowered trans tail I didnt have enough room. To fix this I pulled the distributor cap, which go me the inch I needed. They dont tell you in the instruction but because of the retaining tab that mounts to the shifter, you have to feed the cable from above. (or at least I did) so I took all the hardware off the trans mount end and after opening the hole just a bit with a file she went though. Then some tightening later I was all set. All together it took only a couple hours. And Im very happy with the results. Next I will need to trim that old shifter off the column.

So my headers have been looking aweful for about 12 of the 13 years they have been on the car. And ceramic headers just arent in the budget right now. So I took a shot at a budget clean-up with some stuff I got at Lowes. It only cost $9 for the bottle so I figured what the heck.... That white powder on the driver side header is from the fire extinguisher I used to put out a small fire that started during motor break in and my vinyl oil pressure line was resting on the headers. And the dents are from love taps with a BFH to clear the steering shaft. I started by taking some time with some sand paper and a wire bruch to knock the bulk of the rust off. After spraying them down in the driveway with the Jasco I was left with this Another round with the sand paper and a rinse and I was ready to spray them. I used some basic VHT flat black from the advance auto. Two cans of paint later, heres the result. All together I'm only into the project for about 20 bucks. So if they can keep me going for a year or two I'm a happy camper.

Hey guys, sorry for the delay on the install and post. I got whisked away to CA on 3 days notice for a month by the Army. Apparently they felt that even though I leave for flight school in Feb. I was vital to the mission as the battalion 10K Forklift operator, FML, haha. But Im back and the body mount kit is all installed. Heres the new kit Now the first thing I did was lay out my parts to ensure I had everything. And to my dismay it appeared I was missing a few bushings and hardware. After calling them and explaining I should have 16 set ups and not 14. And the guy acting like I was retarded. I realized that they delete the number 3 bushing (one of the 2 behind the front tires) Soooo yeah, minor detail.But once past this I got the old bushings out I suppose I was about due, haha. All in all I recomend this kit to anyone. I originally bought the kit and hardware separatly from dixie monte carlo but only bushings, no washer sleeves, and the hardware was only for half a car. This one was complete. Heres the model number for ya And the best part is it got me the extra 1/2 inch of clearance I needed for the tail of my trans in the new tunnel. I didnt even have to "massage" the tunnel with a hammer. Going after the floor shifter later today. should be fun

I just returned the first set and oedered this http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy+Suspension/355/3-4170G/10002/-1 I like the washing with the metal shank in them and its supposed to be 100% complete. Will let you know when I install on friday.

So what mechanical pumps are you guys running? STock? I was looking at some edelbrock victor series and can see the holes for my accessory bracket

Budget is alredy in the red but the wife gave me the go ahead to get her on the road. I need a new water pump. All one is just a bit beat up and not worth the weak point. I like the idea of electric, but at almost double a performance mechanical is it worth the hassle? Anyone running electric? Preferences?

I ended up sending the mounts and hardware back today and ordered a more complete kit from jegs that have the washers with sleeves and all the hardware included. SO today was a "soak to break up the rust day" while I worked on other things.

So I ordered my body mount kit from Dixie monte carlo, and body mount hardware kit. Am I retarded for not expecting it to be one side only? haha Has anyone else had this happen?

not that i can see. but by the pics there are more mounts than bushings. and they are poly, so I got them from dixie monte. We shall see what shows up at my door

Well price is quickly becoming an issue as usual Sam. What would you would reccomend to flow to the radiator and cooler? Any specicific size fitting or type of hose?

I see kits for body mounts and body bushing kits for a bit more? Whats the real difference and is it worth the price?

I think im going to go with the M&H engine harness for now to get her back rolling and the light harness later since I have 4 weeks to get her back together before moving. haha

How well does the engine and light combo mate up to the existing system?

Did you guys get the full body wiring kit? I cant really swing the 600+ for that right now. Anyone just do the engine harness?

Absolutely, I would love to see your list. I have wanted to convert but always kinda worried I would ordered the wrong sizes and screw it all up

Hey guys, After a several month delay caused training over in Virginia I;m dropping the drivetrain back in. I want to add a trans cooler just for good measure. Did you guys run flexible line to a cooler on the front of the radiator? Or did you use the external cooler and the radiator? Is there a line/fitting kit I can pick up to ease installation issues? Thanks Will

Alright, pans will be done by the end of next week. So Im shopping for carpet and seat covers. Going to ACC for carpet and Cars Inc for covers. Although 700 for front and rear cloth is not what I thought I would pay. haha. Some random questions that have been bouncing around in my head. Opinions welcomed... My flywheel has a 6 inch section thats chewed half the teeth. [img:left][/img] SCAT 454 flex plate and summit pro torque mini starter rated for 153 and 168 tooth plates. Im not using any shims, would that cause the damage? Should I just replace the plate while the motor is out? What are your recommendations for an external trans cooler? Feelings on the inline? If your running one where did you mount it? I was going to upgrade to ARP bell housing bolts to help prevent cracking through the entire bell housing again. Any experience with the stud kits? They are kinda pricey but are they worth it? Trying to free up cash to upgrade to a 1000cfm carb. Was thinking Bigs or Pro Form. Currently have quickfuel and she has never really run right. Opinions on each? Thanks for all the input guys.

Fair enough, I always welcome and respect all of your opinions here. Hence why I come to you guys first. haha. But he came well reccomended so I am going to give him the benefit of the doubt mostly because its too late now either way. haha. Ill let you know if she breaks down.

I took as he used the same brand they use in Allison transmissions. Sorry for the confusion. Or maybe he was just blowing smoke. Either way I guess I wont find out till I start beating on her a bit this summer. haha. He said he will stand behind it for a year as long as I dont do anything stupid to trash it. Im not positive what type of front hub he put in. I gave him my specs, talked about what I wanted and he handled the rest. I found out the reason the rebuild I did last summer didnt shift like I wanted to is because apparently somebody molested the case for a trans break. You guys are making me worried now, haha. He did modify the case to make it manual rather than replacing the valve body completely. Will this hold up? He said to stay away from ratchets to Davey, so I'm def going with a gate style. Just have to pick one

He recomended a B&M pro stick. That's what he runs in his. Was thinkin that or Hurst quarter stick. Thought and opinions?

Update and some new pics. Here is 1/3 of my budget. Beefy full manual trans with allison bearings to handle up to 800HP. And custom 10 inch continental converter with balloon plates stalled at 2700. [img:left][/img] [img:left][/img] Can you tell this is where he builds all his transmissions? haha [img:left][/img] [img:left][/img] Then the steel inner fenders prepped for paint and the jeep steering box conversion in on the box on the left. I'll be towing it to the shop to replace the pans monday. [img:left][/img] When all said and done I got out the door for about 1800. But she is beefed up and done right. I'm probably going back to have them do some paint work too. They took great care of me every step of the way. So if anyone in the colorado area need trans work I HIGHLY recomend H&M Transmission. They are located in castle rock just south of Denver. [img:left][/img] And so the saga continues.....