astrochimp

It's very interesting how threads trigger things..... I had the thought....maybe just take a light and do a full inspection. I have a 6 blade flex fan and alumimun radiator so should be somewhat good airflow. The ALUminum radiator is thinner than stock...so there's a significant GAP on both sides between radiator and shroud. Guess where all the air is being pulled in from? Going to correct this issue and see how it goes afterwards 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

this is probably the fail proof solution

I have no idea why I didn't just post a PIC of the acutal fan for sale. I should ask for him to measure diameter. I tried a couple things to see if my 'flexfan' would work better at stop lights in HOT weather....it's just not moving enough air. Gotta try solid metal blades again I'm guessin. PHOTO of fan 4 sale. THANKS FOR THE INFO POSTED HERE!!!!

Installed the Wells VR715 and it works perfectly. Solid 14Volts. No worries about fluctuation due to heat or other random things. This is one of those no brainer swaps...like when i changed points out with pertronix point replacement kit.

Duralast Voltage Regulator VR715 is in the mail...(for those who are following along) Hoping for the Best. Will post results here

unfortunately, no. Looking forward to getting electronic one that works. When it's HOT out...my voltage drops on my gauge and I'm pretty sure it's due to the original style magnet/spring or whatever is in there regulator.

Yup, going with an ACTUAL Duralast V series regulator. This was the amazon recommended' electronic regulator for classic cars(the part numbers matched up with duralast, AC delco, etc..) . The reviews were good but this thing CLEARLY isn't working right and is a no brand name unit. I checked resistance between regulator ground connection and negative battery and it was .1 ohms

it was showing high in my after market gauges so i got the meter out and put on battery....showed over 17volts going to try and clean up/check ground connections (that's the only thing I've seen so far online for this issue)

Long overdue to replace the stock voltage regulator. Got the electronic regulator that looks identical to the original...direct replacement. Now my voltage shows anywhere from 16volts up to 17.8 volts when driving around..(was 14.5 with the stock regulator). Is this normal & safe for all the components? THANKS FOR ANY INFO 🙈

Getting RID of the flex fan and going back to the Ol metal blade fan. When it's hot out, temp creeps up bigtime at stop lights. I installed a new aluminum radiator but I'm certain i'm Not getting the airflow at a stop. Saw a local 72 olds 350 fan blade on FB marketplace....is that the same bolt pattern & width for my 70, chevy 350? 🍻

https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/resources/paintcodes/ can somebody confirm that my color is indeed "Green Mist"? the touchup paint company wants me to send them the paint code. My 70 monte doesn't seem to have a paint code tag attached to it anymore. THANKS!

The top is my trunk and the bottom is a piece of metal with dried touchup paint on it. They claim it's 1970 monte carlo green mist. This looks like forest green to me. any thoughts?

Actually, since my alternator is pretty new, this ELECTRONIC voltage regulator is what I'll be getting. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/duralast-voltage-regulator-vr715/130005_0_0

is this a Member Here? This looks like a good idea.

I've had this issue with bad stumbling under heavy or light acceleration. I assumed it was a timing/idle screws/metering rods/jets/springs tuning issue. Removed caps that cover metering rods and noticed that the barrels didn't come up...at all. I poke them and they still don't pop up. Went straight to the internet to search out this issue. Apparently the little barrels can get tiny imperfections that cuase them to stick or the chambers can get dirty. I ligthtly wet sand barrels with 1500 grit and clean out chamber with carb cleaner and Q tip. The chamber was DIRTY..and after the sanding the barrels were bright and shiny smooth. No sticking anymore Monte runs like a CHAMP now as you can imagine with that sort of problem.

When starting car...sometimes the voltage stays at 12v until you rev it a bit then it jumps to 14v. Other times it will bounces between 12-14 at idle. Also, sometimes when I come to a stop it will drop down to 12v. If I understand correctly, the voltage regulator determines when the alternator 14v is activated. I don't think the voltage regulator is that old (could still be the problem) but is there another reason that would cause the regulator to jump the voltage around? THANKS!

"headlight switch that dims the dash lights? " That dims the dashboard lights. I'll read some of the posts here on changing dash lights...seems to have better info than youtube.

Is this basically the same method for removing 1970 monte dash pad? Want to replace all dash bulbs and the dimmer is not working well either. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9Grax8TbBc THANKS!

yeah, I'm gunna drive it through all the gears and get it nice and hot. Then I'll check the fluid again.

Finally got everything done that's been on the list since forever. I think car sat for almost 2 years. I changed the oil and filter but not the trans fluid. It's pink and full on the dipstick. Usually, you put it into reverse with brake on and you feel it engag right away and let foot off pedal and it goes. Now, you put it into reverse and don't feel anything and let foot off pedal and it doesn't do much until you give it gas. I've only driven it for about half a mile so far going 25mph. Trans was rebuilt like 20k miles ago and torqu converter is about 8k miles old. I didn't change the trans fluid but this seems very weird. Maybe it just need to be driven and the issue will go away? Thanks for any INFO

FINALLY getting rid of the original radiator to help with cooling on hot days and save 100 POUNDS in weight. The thermostat housing port is 1 5/16" and the new aluminum radiator is 1 1/8" inlet port. There's probably 20 ways to handle this but wondered what would be the best solution? I was thinking get a hose that has the diameter right between the two and make it work with clamps.

So that New HEI disty is in and i set the timing to about 4 degrees before TDC but under load, I still get some slight pinging. Vacuum advance is attached to the constant vacuum port on edelbrock 600 performer. I have been using regular gas so is that just to low octane or is there another issue? 1970, 350ci, 4bbl performer carb and instake THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Some GREat information here..like i expected. Here is the info on the Disty "assault racing KMJ performance Chevy V8 High Performance HEI Distributor 65,000 Volt Super Coil For sale is a new HEI distributor for small block/big block Chevys. Applications include 283, 305, 307, 327, 350, and 400 small blocks, and 396, 427, and 454 big blocks. Red cap. Ready to run. Fully CNC machined and polished housing with adjustable vacuum advance. Each distributor has a 65,000 volt Super Coil and high performance 4 pin module to insure accurate and reliable timing to 7,500 RPM. Has Accel style coil cover which acts as wire retention and helps dissipate heat away from the coil. The 4340 Chrome moly gear will work with cast or billet cams. Premium cap with brass terminals. True spark alignment for instant throttle response." I Do have a vacuum gauge and should probably check and tweak mixture screws. Will double check firing order today. but it does fire right up and idle nicely. and cold..the car accels great. "did you use the original wire for the dist? If you did it might be a resistor wire and that will not work to well with a HEI. " That's what KMJ said too. Well apparently i DO have that resistor wire at the disty so I'll be swapping that out I don't have a digital timing light for checking timing curve. I'll also check coil resistance when cold and hot and write down the difference. THANKS

So...here we are again I put in the NEW Hei ignition disty with New accel wires. the 350 still has the Edelbrock 600 4 barrel and dual plane intake which only have a couple thousand miles on them. It starts and idles great..but when the car warms up to operating temp.. then acceleration has little power and stumbles from 1200rpm all the way up. I've adjusted the timing from 10 degrees..trying all the way down to 6 degrees. I have grounding on the front a back of the engine block now. The Disty power is 12 volts when you turn the key to on. The plugs are probably over 5 years old BUT have little miles on them. I've sprayed the carb with carb cleaner and then pulled off the vacuum advance line and capped it. It wasn't doing this before the ignition system swap. i don't why this has to be such a catastrophic pain in the [censored] it's either SPARK or FUEL...so it'd be nice to narrow this down. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ok, i definitely don't have that. Going to add a wire from the head to the firewall and see if i notice anything