Blackhawk
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Posts posted by Blackhawk
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I used Noico, I liked that it has a texture that flattens out when you've rolled it enough. Agreed on the mass backing for the carpet, it's a little harder to handle but it's going to do a better job than the stock style pads. Don't forget to get the wheel wells (including inside the quarter window area) and the package tray and rear seat divider.
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I'm looking at buying some weather stripping as well. I was planning on using Summit Racing, as they can get anything that OPGI can get. I have their OEM style window fuzzy kit for wide molding on order, and I think it's something like $40 cheaper through Summit because there's no shipping charge. I like using The Parts Place for odds and ends but it's aggravating that you need to contact them to get any information about what's included in kits.
I'm leaning toward Metro Molded Products for the rubber, but if anybody has had better luck with Soffseal or another brand it would be good to hear recent reviews.
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With the crossmember sitting farther forward than on a Chevelle, I would recommend truck accessories.
Relocation brackets can be found from Holley, Dirty Dingo, ICT Billet, Alan Grove Components, and quite a few others. Some of it depends on which compressor you want to run and where you want to run it.
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13 hours ago, YoungMonte said:
Those rims and tire combo looks SIC!!!! What backspacing did you go with so they didn't rub?
QuoteThe fronts are 18x9 with 5.5" of backspace. The tire is a Bridgestone Potenza S04 (UTQG 280) 255/40/18. This is an inch wider wheel than I was running before.
The rears are 19x10 with 5.5" of backspace. Tire size is 285/35/19, which is an inch larger in diameter than my previous setup. I increased the diameter for tire selection and aesthetic reasons.
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I wouldn't worry too much about getting deadener behind the beam, something like a 30% coverage rate is normally enough for a panel. I would do a few strips on the door panel and quarter, but if you need more coverage for noise I would look at covering the back of the door and quarter cards instead.
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Make sure the brake lights and turn signal lights are properly grounded, I believe they'll ground to the body itself through the socket. If you don't have a multimeter, get one. Check for DC voltage at the bulb sockets when the circuit is turned on.
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Is the booster itself leaking or is the check valve shot?
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Based on the threads when they first came out the trim pieces are a bit too short as well.
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Is the car in the air, and if so is it being lifted by the frame or the rear end?
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You'll want to confirm what the engine is from for the wiring side of things, as there wasn't a Camaro in 2005 and no Camaro had an LS2.
The oil pan information was posted above, and I'm pretty sure the crossmember will need to be notched if you want to run a low A/C compressor. I'm running truck accessories, which are the farthest away from the engine, and it looks like I'd still need to notch the crossmember to even run a small Sanden SD7. You could run a compressor high on the passenger's side with no issues.
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PLEASE give us more information. Did you read the replies in your LS3 thread? GM put the LS2 into more than half a dozen different vehicles, which one was your engine out of? I don't think any stock LS2 pans will fit right, the Holley pans and the stock F-body LS1 pan should fit great in a Monte Carlo.
Make sure you get the right adapter to mate the LS2 to a TH350, you need to space the flex plate out for the torque converter.
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What are the full plans for this? Stick with the LS3 EFI or go with carbureted? Transmission choice? Here's what I needed to fit a LM7/4L60E combo:
Engine/transmission (junkyard engine, rebuilt/upgraded transmission)
Engine mounts (Monte Carlo is backwards compared to Chevelle, so packaged kits for a Chevelle require modification)
Oil pan
Fuel lines and fittings (modified stock hard lines to AN flares and changed the outlet to the firewall instead of the crossmember)
Radiator (optional, mine was shot)
Fuel tank with in-tank fuel pump
Upgraded drive shaft
Headers (I used Speed Engineering, you may be able to find manifolds that fit)
PCM reflash
Modified EFI wiring harness with add-on fuse/relay box.
Transmission cooler lines
Air intake filter and tubing
There are things missing, but even a prepackaged kit is going to have you doing some work. Read up in this section, and use this site as a resource: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/
Of course if you're going carbureted half of the stuff on my list isn't needed, but you'll need other items for things like ignition.
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The only fitment issue I had with mine was trying to put 1970 covers onto a 1971 rear frame.
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Very few tubular lower control arms have any advantage over stock or replacement stamped arms. Only when you get up to BMR or QA1 do you see any caster improvement. Quite a few of the cheap offshore arms have dropped spring pockets too, so the car may end up too low if you have drop springs or like your current height.
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I got around 3/4" from the top of the inner well opening to the frame and 13" from the inner well to the quarter lip, which is 1".
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2 gallons sprayable should get 3 coats, 3 gallons sprayable would probably leave you a little extra for touchup. Of course you'll need more if you're painting the bottom of the hood/trunk or doing some heavy blocking in pursuit of perfection.
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The switch should have a small hole that a drill bit can be inserted and will keep the tang from moving back and forth. Put the shifter into neutral, then insert the switch and tighten it down. If you still have the original switch it should have an 'N' molded next to the hole on the plastic side.
https://www.ss396.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/sm/GDR-411.pdf
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It would be interesting to have some feedback on the fit. The gaps side to side look like they may be acceptable, but it looks like they have the driver's side bumpers up too high in the front.
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There aren't any suspension changes needed for the swap, but it does give a more modern ride.
The fuel system can be taken care of with a Tanks, Inc. system. It has a built in fuel pump and otherwise looks like a stock tank. You can run braided lines front to back, but I flared stock replacement lines for -AN fittings and used braided only where rubber was used on a stock system.
The best oil pan for the Monte Carlo, in my opinion, is the F-body oil pan. Avoid the muscle car pan from GM, it sits too low.
Mounts are cheap. Holley makes mounts for a Chevelle but they're backwards on the Monte Carlo so I used flat plates that adapt stock three bolt mounts.
For A/C you should be able to take advantage of a Vintage Air or Classic Auto Air system. You would just need a bracket for the LS instead of the SBC/BBC bracket.
Did the shop say what they would use for powertrain control, a stock reworked system or an aftermarket solution?
Did they give any itemizing? Depending on what they're planning to do for suspension I could see that being $10K.
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Are you looking to use fuel injection or a carburetor? Factory PCM control or a standalone unit (Holley, FiTech, etc.)? What are your emission requirements in PA for a swap like this? Are you going to have a shop do it all or will you be able to do some/all?
Something like the GM Connect and Cruise is expensive, but it takes a lot of guesswork out of the job.
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We need to know the wheel widths and backspacing/offset before knowing what tire size might work.
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The factory harness for the car or for the swapped engine? For the factory car harness you'll use just about everything if you want your gauges to work; the only wire that I removed was for the GEN light as I used the LS charging system. I turned the GEN light into my MIL light.
For the engine, LT1Swap is a great resource. https://www.lt1swap.com/
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Extra wire at starter solenoid...
in Engine Tech
Posted
That looks like the starter to coil wire to give 12V when starting. If you have HEI the main coil wire should have been replaced, as the stock wire is resister wire and won't give full power.