Jump to content

Blackhawk

Members
  • Content Count

    114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Blackhawk last won the day on January 14 2018

Blackhawk had the most liked content!

About Blackhawk

Full Members Dues-paying
  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Central MN
  • Legal Name
    Cody M
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

202 profile views
  1. Oil pan: 99-02 F-body pan. This doesn't fit Chevelles but fits Monte Carlos perfectly, for much less than Holley pans. Mount adapters: You can make your own, or purchase. I would recommend set-back mounts as they let your transmission and driveshaft stay in the same position. Headers: Speed Engineering 25-1025-1. 1 3/4" long tube stainless steel headers, they fit like a glove and go to the transmission crossmember. For wiring it and getting it to run, https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/ and www.lt1swap.com are the best resources. Unless you want a 100% custom harness, your time is better spent purchasing a reworked harness. Sometimes I wish that I had done that rather than modify the stock harness myself.
  2. Check your ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and firewall bulkhead connections. You're sending quite a bit of power through a long length of wiring to engage the solenoid, any resistance or corrosion can create enough of a bottleneck to not pass enough power through. Do you have a multimeter to check how many volts you're getting to the solenoid when it's not working? I'm a bit believer in running a relay for the solenoid as well. Then you're pulling power from the same place as the starter itself, and the ignition is only giving it the signal. It's no different and much cleaner than running a remote solenoid.
  3. In my opinion the muscle car pan sits too low. The F-body pan (#12628771) sits flush with the front crossmember and has plenty of room between the crossmember and sump in contrast to the Chevelle. Here's my Monte with the F-body oil pan and standard swap plates using the stock style motor mounts, the muscle car oil pan would sit two inches lower than this.
  4. Blackhawk

    pinion seal

    Car 12 bolt pinion seals are all the same. The issue is that most places have consolidated car 12 bolt seals into the longer truck 12 bolt seals. You will need to measure the original seal and the new seal and see if you need to shim it to keep it from bottoming out on the bearing. I shimmed mine using some sheet metal scraps, many people use popsicle sticks.
  5. Definitely get the core support back to where it needs to be, your fenders will thank you. Here's a good resource on aligning hoods/trunks, MARTINSR has a large collection of posts with sheetmetal basics. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-lower-rear-your-hood-front-your-trunk-alignment-222021.html
  6. This might be a good start for anybody looking to have a built rear. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/d/osseo-12-bolt-chevelle-axle-housing/6903718963.html
  7. Not a problem, things get missed or lost in translation sometimes. I'm guilty of it as well, more than I care to admit.
  8. That's why I said it won't matter if he's buying new gears, especially when he's posting complete kits that come with new gears. 2.73 or any gear that would fit in a 8.2" 2-series carrier would be painful with a 700R4. If he's planning on keeping the stock gears, whatever they may be, by all means he should the gear ratio before buying a carrier.
  9. I believe all 10 bolts were 28 spline stock. Chances are you have the 8.2" rear if it's stock, but make sure using the photos Steve posted. Are you planning on buying new gears for the posi? If you are then it won't really matter what the current gear ratio is. For an overdrive I would recommend 3.36, 3.55, or 3.73 gears, depending on the intended use for the car.
  10. Are you referring to the kickdown, shown here? Does the clip look like this? If the clips won't go onto the spades, you should be able to pull them from the connector and squeeze them back together, or buy a new harness for $25.
  11. There's no issue with adding tee fittings, but it's not always necessary. There should be a few plugs along the bottom of the engine that you can remove for oil pressure. The temp sensor can go in the same hole as the stock temp sensor but on the opposite head.
  12. I would still recommend looking at a larger charge wire, but if you're not running much more of a load than stock you should be fine. Most people don't touch the wiring and only use the larger alternator to get a better idle output.
  13. I would run 8 gauge or larger from a 140 alternator, stock is 10 gauge. I ran 4 gauge from my 145 amp alternator to a distribution point, then separate 8 gauge runs to the starter and the horn relay. I also clipped the interior wire and ran it to that distribution point because it's shorter than to the horn relay.
  14. Go for a Wells VR715 voltage regulator, it's a solid state version of the original regulator. The cap from the stock regulator can be transplanted to the new one to look original. What are you running for electronics? If you're 100% stock, you can stick with the 100 amp. If you have an upgraded sound system, electric fans, electric fuel pump, etc., go with the 140. If you upgrade the alternator, make sure to upgrade the rest of the charging system so it can actually use that power. Read through this site to get some information on building a better charging system: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/chevymain1.shtml
  15. According to this, the Chevelles only had pictures on them if they were an SS: http://chevellestuff.net/1971/71ss.htm I believe it's the same for the Monte Carlo.
×
×
  • Create New...