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Blackhawk

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Blackhawk last won the day on January 14 2018

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About Blackhawk

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  • Location
    Central MN
  • Legal Name
    Cody M
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. The four headliners that they show are different fabrics. Here's a good example of the differences. https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/automotive-headliner-vinyl-1-yard-p/hl-vinyl-1.htm I bought the PUI headliner and there are spots that aren't sewn evenly, so no amount of stretching will remove the slight wrinkle left between panels. The PUI headliner that my dad bought 15 years ago didn't have that problem. The OPG insulation kit is a big sheet of jute that you attach using contact cement rather than foil-backed butyl sheets like the Dynamat. There are alternatives to Dynamat that will be a lower price, just make sure that it can hold up to the temperature of a roof on a hot sunny day. Headliner is easiest with a few people and no glass in the car. Buy a few boxes of binder clips to hold the headliner in place.
  2. You will have to measure. You can buy a new yoke from the driveshaft supplier, they need it to balance the driveshaft. Suppliers may all look for something slightly different when measuring but this is the basic process: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/webroot/img/File/how_to_measure_diagrams/b.html When I had mine made I used it as an excuse to go to 1350 u-joints in the front and rear.
  3. I'm using the Trans-Dapt 4572, but any brand will work. I wanted to avoid aluminum mounts and sliding mounts to keep the engine lower. It also put the 4L60E shifter in the same spot as the TH350 so I didn't really mess with the back drive linkage.
  4. 1. Not necessary. 2. Your crossmember is set up for dual exhaust from the factory. Holley and Speed Engineering headers fit perfectly into the stock exhaust cutouts. You may have to buy a new crossmember or modify your stock crossmember for the 4L80E though. 3. Which transmission do you have right now? I don't think the 4L80E is close to either the TH350 or TH400. The stock driveshaft isn't all that large for its length. A new, stronger driveshaft would be around $400.
  5. Any specific reason for the Dirty Dingo mounts? I'm running 1" forward (front of engines line up) plates with an F-body pan and have all sorts of clearance due to the crossmember being farther forward than on a Chevelle.
  6. I used Alchemy for my rear view. Their price wasn't bad but it was going up, I think it cost me $35 to have mine done and it's now $40-45. http://alchemymirrorresilvering.com/
  7. Yup. https://www.opgi.com/monte-carlo/1971/sheet-metal-body-panels/hood/?page=3
  8. I'd have to check to be sure, but I want to say I ended up with a 3.5" steel driveshaft balanced above 10,000 RPM. With how long our driveshafts are the critical speed (where it starts whipping and trying to go through the floor) is pretty low.
  9. Typically the driveshaft is limited by RPM more than anything. With a non-overdrive transmission you usually won't have an issue, but if you have a manual transmission or newer overdrive automatic it's not a bad idea to figure out what your driveshaft RPM will be and size accordingly. Make sure you're using non-greasable U-joints, they're much stronger than crossdrilled U-joints.
  10. https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/part/1970/monte-carlo/automatic-transmission-related-parts/transmission-crossmember-related-items Otherwise I have a good set of OEM brackets and pads from a GTO that I didn't end up using.
  11. 72 has the seat belt warning light. 70-71 should be the same though.
  12. The fit isn't exactly the same as stock, at least on the first batch.
  13. Restoparts is OPGI's own manufacturing line. I don't see it listed from anybody else. I've got a Chevelle hood that I was planning on cutting up, this may be easier...
  14. Blackhawk

    Radio

    Which features are you looking for? Only FM radio, Bluetooth/aux, RCA outputs for external amps? If you still have the original radio you may be better off getting it rebuilt if you only need Bluetooth and/or FM. I think the rebuilds end up costing the same as the aftermarket 'classic' radios.
  15. Your year would use cotton batting in the rear seats I believe. For my rear seats with Legendary covers I'm using 2" firm HR foam for the bottom and 1" medium HR foam for the back. Firm foam (#41282): http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Foam/HR_Foam_Sheets/Foam_Firm_HR_4128/index.html Medium foam (#33191): http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Foam/HR_Foam_Sheets/Foam_Medium_Firm_HR_3319_-_Best_Seller/index.html This is the only good photo that I have, I'm using covers for a 1970 and the frame for a 1971 so there's nothing holding it for part of the rear edge. That's why it bows up a bit on each side. The 2" foam is a real pain, you'll need somebody compressing the foam to get the covers into place. I used zip ties in each spot that I was going to hog ring the covers, then we could push down on the foam and tighten each zip tie a bit at a time. You'll also need some muslin or cotton glued to the foam to keep it in place before the cover goes on.
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