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Blackhawk last won the day on January 14 2018

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    Cody M
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  1. The purple wire goes to the solenoid post, usually labeled S. Do you know where the smaller wire goes on the other side? Maybe it's the resistor wire that goes to the coil? I don't have my assembly manual on hand but I thought that the 1971 only had the battery, starter solenoid, and a yellow wire for the coil. Here's a 1970 Chevelle diagram, which should be the same as 1971 (they changed the wiring for 1972 somewhat). http://chevellestuff.net/1970/misc/wiring.htm Here's the 1971 information. I would also recommend purchasing a factory assembly manual, they're not
  2. With the crossmember sitting farther forward than on a Chevelle, I would recommend truck accessories. Relocation brackets can be found from Holley, Dirty Dingo, ICT Billet, Alan Grove Components, and quite a few others. Some of it depends on which compressor you want to run and where you want to run it.
  3. I wouldn't worry too much about getting deadener behind the beam, something like a 30% coverage rate is normally enough for a panel. I would do a few strips on the door panel and quarter, but if you need more coverage for noise I would look at covering the back of the door and quarter cards instead.
  4. Make sure the brake lights and turn signal lights are properly grounded, I believe they'll ground to the body itself through the socket. If you don't have a multimeter, get one. Check for DC voltage at the bulb sockets when the circuit is turned on.
  5. Is the booster itself leaking or is the check valve shot?
  6. Based on the threads when they first came out the trim pieces are a bit too short as well.
  7. Is the car in the air, and if so is it being lifted by the frame or the rear end?
  8. You'll want to confirm what the engine is from for the wiring side of things, as there wasn't a Camaro in 2005 and no Camaro had an LS2. The oil pan information was posted above, and I'm pretty sure the crossmember will need to be notched if you want to run a low A/C compressor. I'm running truck accessories, which are the farthest away from the engine, and it looks like I'd still need to notch the crossmember to even run a small Sanden SD7. You could run a compressor high on the passenger's side with no issues.
  9. PLEASE give us more information. Did you read the replies in your LS3 thread? GM put the LS2 into more than half a dozen different vehicles, which one was your engine out of? I don't think any stock LS2 pans will fit right, the Holley pans and the stock F-body LS1 pan should fit great in a Monte Carlo. Make sure you get the right adapter to mate the LS2 to a TH350, you need to space the flex plate out for the torque converter. https://www.ictbillet.com/swap-guide/ls-swap-guide.html
  10. What are the full plans for this? Stick with the LS3 EFI or go with carbureted? Transmission choice? Here's what I needed to fit a LM7/4L60E combo: Engine/transmission (junkyard engine, rebuilt/upgraded transmission) Engine mounts (Monte Carlo is backwards compared to Chevelle, so packaged kits for a Chevelle require modification) Oil pan Fuel lines and fittings (modified stock hard lines to AN flares and changed the outlet to the firewall instead of the crossmember) Radiator (optional, mine was shot) Fuel tank with in-tank fuel pump Upgraded drive shaft
  11. https://www.ictbillet.com/sbc-alternator-power-steering-pump-accessory-drive-brackets-kit-for-electric-water-pump.html
  12. The only fitment issue I had with mine was trying to put 1970 covers onto a 1971 rear frame.
  13. This lot caught my eye: https://bid.hansenauctiongroup.com/bid/58169?item=4565024&section=auction As far as I know the driver's side lower AC vent is not reproduced.
  14. Very few tubular lower control arms have any advantage over stock or replacement stamped arms. Only when you get up to BMR or QA1 do you see any caster improvement. Quite a few of the cheap offshore arms have dropped spring pockets too, so the car may end up too low if you have drop springs or like your current height.
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