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70MC402 last won the day on May 12 2020

70MC402 had the most liked content!

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    Richard Dotte
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  1. I tried doing this about 3 years ago with a 402. I would say im comfortable with atleast your average amount of sketch as far as wedging the the engine on a 2x4 but I ended up pulling the engine because I didnt have enough height to get the pan down and out.
  2. Do they advertise any torque estimates? Having torque is probably what you'll feel more often than not unless youre spending alot of time above 4000 rpm. So building something to push our 4000 lb bricks out of the gate is probably better than trying to make a 7000 rpm screamer. That way itll really pull when you add a deeper gear.
  3. Did you ever try the 295s on the 15x8 5.5 backspacing. Looking at buying a set of 295/55/15 MT ET SS' tires and fitting them on wheels with the previously mentioned wheel configuration. Measuring my wheel opening and axle flange distance from the inner fender it seems like a 5.5 backspacing centers the tire in the opening almost perfectly with an 8 inch wheel, just curious is you did it.
  4. You can rebuild your rear end for alot less than buying heads, a cam, intake and all the gaskets. Changing to like a 3.31 or a 3.55 would seriously wake up the car. 3.31s would be better if you like driving on the highway like you said above. How much power is the RPM kit supposed to make over the Performer kit?
  5. A deeper gear will make the car more responsive at all RPM, went from 3.31s to 3.73s last winter and it woke my car up. Only downside as people posted above is the reduced mileage. If you do change it over it would be a good time to look into a truetrac differential for improved traction. I second the roller cam comment above. The rollers allow much more aggressive ramps which typically means more power. When you spec out a cam make sure whatever springs youre using have enough open pressure to close that valve back up.
  6. What kind of times does the Pandemic Monte What kind if time does the Pandemic Monte run?
  7. Right now the KYB is in the front, i have some ACdelco load assist shocks that i bought when the car had the stock springs under the rear and i needed the height. Theyre probably too stiff now. I guess the big reason I was looking into the no hop bars is because on quite a few of the A Body and Chevelle forums they talk about how moving the instant center to the anti slack line of the tires helps the car really plant the rear end. I guess im not really sure if im worried about the look of the launch as long as it moves out well. I'll start with the tire pressure though. Thanks for the advice!
  8. Sounds like a plan, I gotta get some different wheels on the back for 275s, i had to trim the quarters to get the tires to fit with a person in the back seat because with my rear end build the rear grew a bit. It would be easy if I could just make up my mind on what wheels!! Lol. Are you tslking the ETstreet radials? I had been looking at the ET Street SS'? I was thinking a set of adjustable shocks would be another good step, or coilovers for the height adjustment. Are you saying that adjusting the upper bars and causing the body to lift is a bad thing for weight transfer? Is that why so many companies drop the rear of the lower arm down now? I do have an anti roll bar on the bottom arms, its just bolted to them not to the body though. The front has stock arms with new bushings, afco ball joints, a 1 inch drop spring from UMI (actually raised the car up some from the original worn springs with the thread in spreaders) and KYB shocks.
  9. Hello everyone, since i got my rear end rebuilt this past spring and its got the Truetrac ive been trying to figure out the launch nd get the car to really move out, right now its just been on the street, im not trying to be the fastest thing on land just want to get going a little quicker. The cars got a very mild cam (212/218) and a edelbrock performer with headers so I would guess its probably pretty close to stock power but it still spins them. Right now its got new UMI upper and lower tubular control arms in the rear, new stock height UMI springs and some ACdelco load assist shocks. The tires are 255/70/15 Be Goodrich T/As. Ive been looking into the control arm relocation kits, originally the ones that adjust the upper arms and either bring the rear up or front down to move the instant center rearward. Ive seen quite a few lower control arm brackets to move the lower control arm mounting lower, does anyone have any experience with either of the recolating brackets and experience with how they help plant the rear end. Thanks in advance for all the help!
  10. Since i do more work on current era vehicles, I work at a dealer, my knowledge on the transmission kickdown is limited. As far as the throttle cable Lokar and a few other companies make universal cables that you cut to length. Thats an option. Another if youre good with metal fabrication is to make a bracket that comes off the carb thats further from the carburetor. Once the throttle cable length is sorted and you have good throttle action you should be able to press the "clip" in, and adjust the cable. Seeing that you have no shift i believe lengthening the cable would adjust your kickdown the right way. Hopefully some of the more seasoned members can chime in with experience.
  11. Having somewhat limited experience working on carburetors take my comments with a grain of salt, that being said i would think it would make sense to sort out the throttle cable slack before going after the kickdown issue. Th350 or 700r4? The kickdown cable length setting is dictated my the throttle position on the carb linkage, so adjusting the pedal to be better connected to the linkage should be the first priority. Once the throttle cable length is corrected and you dont have slack check to see when the kickdown is accomplished.
  12. Yeah I agree! One of the reasons i took so many pictures before putting it back into service lol.
  13. Got the rear end all buttoned up and installed along with new brake lines and a Wilwood adjustable porportioning valve. The Truetrac and 3:73s definitely woke up the Monte. No noise from the rear end and definitely a different car from the open differential 3:31s.
  14. Im not sure how relevant or helpful this may be but a friend had an old truck that wouldnt move without the throttle. You could feel the transmission engage but the vehicle wouldnt move without throttle. He had a brake shoe hanging up and causing friction in the driveline. Just a thought.
  15. Sorry im not adding any informative value im just here to say that green looks kick**s on your Monte. I feel like greens are typically overlooked and undervalued. Nice car man.
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