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Some sizes are available from Amazon, but more expensive. I used to get it from Ames Pontiac Performance, but when I looked thru past orders, the price has bumped up a lot. That's when I noticed one box I got from them came from 'Brillman', so a quick search of that site resulted in me ordering direct from them recently. Here's all of their available sizes in one place: https://brillman.com/product-category/products/products-n-suppliesspecialty-parts/products-n-suppliesspecialty-parts-wire-loom-conduit/products-n-suppliesspecialty-parts-wire-loom-conduit-asphaltic-wire-loom/

In that case, if the headliner is out, makes perfect sense. I just use the asphalt stuff around the starter area, and maybe the positive battery cable if it passes close to something for more abrasion resistance. I'll also put it on the single temperature sending unit wire on the head if needed, so it looks factory. Looks more like old school factory. I have also used the newer type corrugated loom the factory used in the later 70's + years, but it just doesn't look right on the older cars.

Yes, ARH stainless. I had Hooker Super Comps (I had to modify a Chevelle set years ago to fit the Monte), and a regular set of Hooker Comps too. They hang down so low, nearly scrapes the street, lol. The ARH headers tuck up nice and tight, to the point the oil pan & trans hang lower than the tubes. I hate seeing the exhaust hang down, especially when viewed from the side, or the tailpipes as well.

I've used the AAW kits and like them. Tips,.. read the directions thoroughly, and also get the correct crimping tools. I like to solder the wires to the terminals too, but that's not really necessary, as long as you have a good, solid crimp. Get the non-adhesive wire loom tape if you're going for a factory type of appearance. Regular black tape doesn't work as well, especially when moving the bundle around corners, etc. The non-adhesive tape lets the bundle move around and seems to work good. Also, saves you the sticky mess down the road when working on it for whatever reason. As far as the dome light wires, I re-use the existing wires for that. As long as the originals are in good shape, I don't like fooling with the headliner unless absolutely necessary. If not concerned about the factory look, or for added protection in friction areas, I really like the split loom type in the link below (Holley uses the same type loom on their EFI harnesses, FWIW). I keep most of the sizes in stock here at the shop. Also have the asphalt coated stuff in stock, like the factory used around the starter area, etc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW4M7Z8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 The asphaltic coated looms: https://brillman.com/product/38-inch-asphaltic-coated-wire-loom/

As always, Thank You Rob for always keeping on top of things and also keeping us updated. Hard to believe it's nearly a new year already, and then Carlisle will be here before we know it. Can't wait 🙂.

They make a proportioning valve for the disc/disc application, that would work to retain the failure warning light if you lost a line (front or rear). Same physical shape as the regular disc/drum. No hold off valves needed, as the master cylinder is mounted higher than everything. Doubtful you'll find direct replacement lines that will locate the prop valve from the stock location, to just below the booster area like some of the GM cars had.. I have ARH headers that are close to the valve, so I just made a heat shield to protect the valve, no issues so far. (I have BAER front/rear discs on the car)

It popped up for me, shows the fenders. Billy Hart as the seller.

There isn't one that I could find. This should excite you though...

Of course you do.

I tend to prefer the roller bearings, but its a matter of choice. How many miles are on that bushing? Now's the time to change it, especially if there's a fair amount of miles on it. That being said, i just measured a couple of bronze bushings i had in stock and they came out to .593 as well. A used one that was also in the drawer measured a little wider. It's not like the Muncies were exactly a precision instrument compared to a modern Tremec, with much tighter tolerences. If you were putting one of those in, I'd much rather see you go with a roller. They do require you to send them bellhousing runout measurements though, if you want to maintain a warranty. Makes sense.

I just pushed the input shaft to one side and stuck the gauge in the gap. You planning to use a bronze or roller pilot bearing?

I have 3 in the basement, I'll take some pics and measurements in a bit. I used a spark plug wire gap gauge to measure the clearance. One was 0.080", another was 0.054, the third was 0.080"+, but that was also the one that is missing a lot of teeth (shown on the floor, they fell out when I rolled it over).

He did retire (if he was the original owner), and Mike Gibbons took over from there. When I had mine done, it was right at that transition point, and Mike did mine. No issues, problems, whatsoever and he did a good job.

It's always something....

Figures, lol. I just put in an order last week for the current job in the shop. 😁