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No, looks factory until powered up, then the digital info windows light up. Absolutely one of the best mods you can do, though its a bit expensive. Top quality stuff.

I have Poly body bushings, no issues at all.

I left you a text message Terry.

For an A6 compressor & R134a you'll want PAG 150 oil. Total system capacity should be 11 ounces. The starting point for refrigerant is around 45 ounces of R134. You'll need a scale to accurately get a charge. Start at 42 ounces and see how it works, add a little more if needed. Sounds like the system is completely new, or are there some original parts there? I forget what the stage 2 was missing, but the Stage 3 had everything. Point being, you need to balance the refrigerant oil between the new components too, can't add it all to one part. Do you have a GM service manual, as there is a lot of great information in there too. Original Air Group was always a division of Classic Auto Air (at least it was when I got my system from them in 2019) and have called them as recently as last year. What number are you calling? Lastly, PM your phone number if you want, it'll be easier to help you out. Joe T

This was all C.K., Willie. He takes care of everything as far as the planning, hotel accommodations, dinner reservations, etc., and does a great job at it. He was also responsible for getting Dave Kindig to pop over to our area for the pictures as well. Also, as you mentioned, his son Dennis is ALWAYS a great help (here & Carlisle), no matter what the task may be. It certainly goes a lot smoother because of his efforts, so THANK YOU too, Dennis. As always, the rest of the group pitches in to help as well. We've got the setup & breakdown of the show field tents, banners, and flags down to a few minutes it seems. In all, a very successful weekend, so thanks again C.K. for making this another good one for us.

Here's a video that Willie took. File is too large to load here apparently, so it's on a cloud drive. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15b48PLpUIV9w4--dMmjdGjvgeJfixCbl/view?usp=sharing

We're so glad you made it too, Ryan! You certainly jumped through hoops to get there, and kept smiling all the way. Before you know it, next year's Carlisle & Syracuse will be upon us (and over in a flash, as always happens), so plan on attending both if possible. As we were loosely discussing last night, if anyone is interested in maybe having a late season (October-December?) get together, without the Montes even, that's something we can explore. As we always say, "it's about the people, not the cars". Mark T. has already stated, if it's anywhere in the northern hemisphere, he's out because it's too cold, 😁. It's a thought though. Any thoughts, suggestions?

https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/products/rs71gm00010465g They have a setup that adds seat foam to the sides of the top and bottom seat. Makes a real big difference in comfort, but barely noticeable, unless you're looking for it (or already have them yourself). Here's their catalog (my car's interior is actually on the cover): https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/cdn/shop/files/2024_Monte_Carlo_Catalog_bedc21fd-9237-4212-9971-2d37f2f718c0.pdf?v=6622415619018236069

I have a 'Bendix' brand one, but it's probably 35 years old. I'll poke around and see what's out there now, but Dennis has already listed some good suggestions. The key point to remember is that the brake fluid is pressurized at the master cylinder location. You need to be careful when hooking it up, and especially removing it to not blow brake fluid all over the place. Still, it's the only thing that worked on those cars,(and many in the past). I have an old 'Vacula' system that hooks to the bleeder screws at each wheel, to vacuum draw the fluid from the master cylinder, and the majority of the time it works great at bleeding/flushing the system. When that doesn't work, I break out the pressure bleeder. I also have a set of high pressure gauges that attach at the front/rear bleeder location with adapters. That is how I can tell, with verifiable data, that the pressure bleeder makes a difference in system pressure, at the brake locations. FWIW, you're not likely to get better brake pressures with your 'manual' brake system, as opposed to a vacuum booster & a 'Leeds' type vacuum pump, even playing around with different master cyl. piston bore sizes. I called Baer & Wilwood at the time also, regarding master cylinder bore sizes, etc. Bottom line, the typical answer you'll get from them guys is you need at least 18inHg of vacuum for the booster to work, and you have 12. When I converted to 4 wheel disc on both cars, I went thru all this. Bottom line, added the Leeds pump to both cars, retained the factory vacuum booster, and great pressures at the wheel locations, that were NOT attainable no matter how hard I pressed the pedal in the car. Oh, my Monte originally had a hydroboost setup on it, but I hated how it looked, so it was replaced.

Get a pressure bleader. Only thing that's worked for me on my Monte & 69 Camaro. Noticeable difference from just that procedure.

Dave Kindig & Kevin (Kev-dog) stopped by our tent to visit. Real nice guys, had a few good laughs, until he got attacked by a possum...

HVAC controls

We're already eating dinner....

Be careful opening the doors when the car is on a lift too. Sometimes the door front edge may rub the fender, chip the paint....