justin85xx3

I'm thinking about changing the wheels on my 72 Monte Carlo to Rally wheels. I like the look of the Vision 57 wheels. What size wheels and bolt pattern fits my car? Anyone have any other recommendations on where to find Rally wheels?

Appreciate everyone's input so far. I put the monte aside for the past few months as I had to deal with real life, but I got back at it today and went over everything I could think of including your suggestions here. I got it idling really well and I set the fuel mixture on the carb just right but it still stalls immediately when I drop it in gear. I had it idling at around 900 rpm but also tried speeding it up to around 1100 and that did not help the stalling. I drained the fuel tank and replaced with fresh fuel, but that did not affect anything. I did some more searching on the web and everyone mentions vacuum issues, so I checked all the vacuum lines and did a variety of tests and cannot pinpoint the issue. I tried sucking on the vacuum line that goes to the distributor and held the vacuum with my tongue and it holds vacuum just fine. I'm still at a loss. Figured I'd post some pics to see if anyone spots anything that I might be missing. The arrow is where the vacuum line comes out of the carb and splits, one end goes to the distributor and the other to a vapor reservoir (??) beside the radiator. The yellow cap on the other vacuum port is for the line that normally goes to the air breather. I tested with that capped on/off and it didn't seem to make a difference on the stalling.

Yes I disconnected the hose from the distributer and plugged hose with a rubber vacuum cap.

Well I got all the dash gauge lights working thanks to everyone's help but now I have bigger problems with the motor.

Last week I was working on replacing my oil pressure sending unit and I bumped the distributor while I was wrenching it down in place. The distributor rotated on me slightly and I tried to set it back to where it was but after a test drive the car ran real sluggish and backfired. Before the oil pressure sending unit I also replaced the fuel sending unit in the gas tank (fuel gauge had stopped working too) and this was the first test drive since either were replaced. Broke out the timing light and found that the initial timing has to be between 30-35 (using a digital timing light like this one), anything more or less and the car starts to bog down. I know that 30-35 is usually the total timing, but this is my initial timing at around 700-800 RPM at idle... All this, and no matter where I set the timing I can still hear it backfiring occassionally in the exhaust. My father rebuilt the engine a few years ago and he put a mild RV cam in it and electronic ignition, but everything else is stock (350 with 2bl carb). The motor idles rough (it's always idled a little rough and as I'm a novice I just figured it was the cam. It would always die several times when first cranking up from a cold start and putting it in gear, but once it was warm it would do ok) but now when I put it in gear the engine stalls out even with the engine warm. I've also noticed a really strong exhaust odor lately, the kind that permeates into the skin and clothes prompting demands of an immediate shower from other members of the household once I come inside the house. Any ideas where I should even start here?

Grounded with a wire to the alternator bracket and the light came on nice and red. Looks like I have a bad sending unit. Headed to the auto parts store tomorrow.

The factory oil pressure sending unit is next to the distributor and I'd rather leave that in place and install a secondary analog oil pressure gauge using another fitting somewhere. Question is, does another fitting port exist on these engines?

Making some progress. I unplugged the wires going into the headlight switch and re-plugged them in and almost all of the dash lights began working again. Must have been a loose connection. The only thing that is not working is the oil pressure warning light. The back-light works on it, but the red light never comes on, even when the key is in accessory mode (I'm pretty sure it's suppose to come on when in accessory and as engine is cranking up??). I checked that the blue cable is plugged into the top of the oil pressure sending unit under the distributor. I also removed the oil warning light socket and directly connected it to a battery and the light works that way. Some questions: 1) Is there a way to run an analog oil pressure gauge in the car without removing the factory oil pressure sending unit? Was thinking about mounting an analog pressure gauge somewhere under the dash. (I know they make conversion dash mount analog gauges but my budget says that will have to come later) 2) Is there a way to test the oil pressure sending unit or simulate a fault at the oil pressure sending unit to force the dummy oil light on? My thought here is to test the circuitry from the sending unit to the dummy light.

Headlight switch works, lights come on when I pull it out, I can turn it all the way counterclockwise and the dome light will click on, but never any gauge lights.

My 72 Monte Carlo's dash lights for the gauges are not working. Both blinker lights work and the GEN gauge on the top left of the dash lights up, but nothing else works. I've checked all the bulbs and checked the fuses under the dash and everything looks good there. Do you think I have a bad circuit board or ??

I took my 72 Monte Carlo to get inspected yesterday and the shop wouldn't pass it because my air cleaner doesn't connect to the exhaust properly. I'm thinking about installing an aftermarket air cleaner but I'm having some trouble finding one that will fit my 2 barrel carburetor. ^ How this is any different than an after market air cleaner I have no idea. ^ My carburetor is a 2 barrel and the hole where the air cleaner connects to the carburetor 3" wide. ^ There is also a vacuum hose(?) connecting from the carburetor to the air cleaner that I have highlighted here in yellow. I like the triangle Edelbrock air cleaners like this, but everything that I can find online say they only fit 4 barrel carburetors. Also, I don't know what to do about that vacuum hose(?) that connects to the carburetor if I went with this option. Thoughts/Ideas?