ChiefJones

So with the 190 Thermostat I should not see much more than say 195 whether I am driving or it is sitting idling in the driveway...correct?

Thanks for the help from everyone!! The final problem was just that the Lock Cylinder had failed. I had a heck of a time getting it out because non of the places where you release the cylinder from the colum were open. they all still had the "Flash" in them. I was worried about just starting to try punching out aluminum but finally found some photos online that helped me determine the right spot. Once I got the old one out the new one went in with ease and that was that....Thanks Again!!!

Pretty happy with the ACCEL ready made set I just put on. They laid out nice when put on with good supports that run along the valve covers to the back and then in to the Distributor.

So...I got my engine in...did the initial break in and will be taking it out as soon as its not all Mud and Slush for the first 2 miles out of my shop. With the rebuilt motor, bored 30 over with a cam what should I see for water temps while running down the road and at a stop?

I am ready to run my new 350. I started it and set the timing and dwell etc and now want to make sure to break it in the best way possible...What works the best? So far I have been told to run the engine for 30 min at 2000 to 2500 RPM and that will do it.

I will try that, but from playing with the new lock cylinder I have it appears that the key has just quit activating the part inside the cylinder that Unlocks it. The last 1/4 inch of putting the key in seems to depress something with the tip of the key that unlocks it and mine just quit. I need to figure out how to get the lock cylinder out now without being able to get the key to the run position.

I am just finishing up on getting my 70 started up after a huge amount of work and last night I turned the key to the "Lock" position and now today it wont unlock, took apart everything but nothing effects it. I have a new spare lock cylinder and keys but the old one doesn't seem to be removable unless you get it to the run position... IDEAS??

This is a bit off topic but could you tell me exactly what your rear moog cargo springs are. I need a spring that will bring the back end up a few extra inches.

To be honest, I had the rims from my First 70 way back when, got new tires on them, put them on and then realized I had forgotten about this issue from 17 years back. Back then I used air shocks to keep the back up but I am looking for other options now. The springs are older stock springs and I do have a set of almost new ones and while they are obviously stiffer they are actually shorter. I plan on giving them a try and seeing how she sits but I think I may still need a taller spring.

So...I have 2 70's I am doing, the second that I am not working on right now has an engine that is all set, the first had a 327 2 bolt main that had some work done to it. I was just going to throw it back in after removing it and cleaning it up but one thing lead to another and I had it rebuilt, after I dropped it off It dawned on me that I had a 4 bolt 350 block laying around so why not use it...so...what I ended up with is a 4 Bolt 350 block bored 30 over with a cam and double roller timing set but with the 327 Crank which I was told is a higher rev crank..right now it has a stock Chevy 4 barrel spread bore manifold. If all that makes sense what do you guys think I should think about putting on for an aftermarket manifold and carb make and size??

I just got my shop finished and got started on one of my 2 70's and I have an issue with the clearance for the rims and tires I put on it. I put 14" 60's on the back and due to the width and the stock rear suspension parts if I put it on the road like this I am going to cut into my sidewalls in the first mile when I hit any bump or jump on the gas. I need to get the rear of the car up at least a few inches and maybe stiffen it up. I know I could just put air shocks on it and pump them up but I really dont want that buck board hard ride. So....can anyone tell me if just putting an over sized spring would do it and if so who has them....or.....what have any of you other folks done??

I have two 70 Montes and I am getting started on one of them just making it a driver. The second I am doing a frame off and converting it to a 4 speed. On the first one it currently has a 2 speed automatic, the shift indicator on the dash has P,R,N,D,L the other one has a 3 speed auto with P,R,N,D,2L,1L the first thing that has me confused is what type of transmision the 2 speed is. They both have TH350 shaped pans but the 2 speed has a much longer tail shaft. My next issue is that the 2 speed isnt working in Drive or L but does work in reverse. I would like to fix or replace it to keep this one stock as posible but dont know how a 2 speed will work with a strong 327 or built 350. I have both and not sure which one I am going to drop in. So then I am wondering how tough would it be to put the TH350 I have in the second car in the first? Any and all thoughts on this stuff would be appreciated!!