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Shnalla

(Non-dues paying)
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Posts posted by Shnalla

  1. On 3/29/2021 at 1:57 AM, Dtret said:

    So I figured out a way. Unbend the old staples and pull off the felt , install new felt by drilling a tiny staple size hole. Line up the new staple to the drilled hole and drill the second hole insert staple into the holes and squeeze it closed. Worked great just time consuming 

    Do you have pictures of the job done?

  2. 5 hours ago, 70MC402 said:

    How was the fit on the line kit from inline tube? I replaced the rear axle lines on my 70 with some from inline tube last summer and 1 fit like a glove the other took a few trial fits to work out. 

    Hey, 

    I did not install  the kit yet because my is at the paint shop! 

  3. 42 minutes ago, imr said:

    From what i can see, rust is not your issue. If you have a ball joint fork some call it a pickle use it, if you dont rent it. if you insist on doing it with out the tool , ge a big hammer and hit the knuckle with all you got, it will eventually fall out. trust me rust is not your issue.

    Unfortunately I don't have a fork and because of confinement, everything is closed out there.

    I'm just afraid to wrap or bend the knuckle if I hit it too hard. What are your thought?

  4. 8 hours ago, Rob Peters said:

    Yes Steve, when he said he had tried a ball joint removal tool that is what I assumed he was talking about but maybe he was talking about a tool that presses it out.  Romain, what kind of tool were you using.  Here is a link to the tool Steve is referring to and the same thing I use:  https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-ball-joint-separator-fork-drop-forged-steel-disconnects-ball-joint-from-connecting-links-w1206p/11506072-p?product_channel=local&store=6237&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=6237&gclid=CjwKCAjw95D0BRBFEiwAcO1KDN8bpAi0_z79f159NnIAexpwvr-XDISwS9o2ePJkOhKDNDYRkrIy9RoCD3IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    rob

    Actually I used that tool without success 

    IMG_20200402_095719.thumb.jpg.8917449eac7400516a900b6694ef498b.jpg

    7 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

    If you didn't try this yet..... Heat up the spindle near the ball joint. Hit repeatedly with a BFH!!! Usually does the job. Up here in the north east we get alot of parts that wind up together that shouldn't be. Lolol. Good luck! 👍

     

    7 hours ago, cny first gen 71 said:

    Be careful if you heat it up the grease in the joint will burn and splatter. Trust me I have the scars to prove it. 😆

    Here is the stuck ball joint. I'll try to soak it with penetrating oil. Also I can try to heat it up as I have removed the boot and most of the grease. 

    IMG_20200402_101429.thumb.jpg.fe0aeff0f4dec377a1fc04739fb61bfe.jpg

  5. I'm in the process of replacing all bushings and ball joints on the front control arms.
    Lower ball joint is stuck in the spindle. I tried hammering it, and then I bought a ball joint removal tool and it did not move at all.
    I have a 12tons shop press, but I'm afraid to break or bend the spindle if I use the press.

    Any advice on how to remove it?

    Thank you

  6. My Monte is currently not running, or at least I don't drive it anymore because I'm in the process of rebuilding brakes and front-end.

    Anyway, today I tried to start the engine and as usual I poured a bit of gas in the carb because bowl where dried.
    The engine started and the pump never managed to send gas...
    The culprit was my fuel tank! It look like that has a bit collapsed over the time and fuel sending unit is unable to pick fuel.

    My Monte doesn't have fuel canister anymore however the vent line is still "open".
    Does anyone has an idea why it's doing this???
    Should I buy I new tank?

  7. Hi, 

    I bought a set of used flat top pistons (Gen4) for my 5.3 (Gen3) and also a set of Gen 4 connecting rods.
    Pistons came with wrist pin that seems to be the wrong diameter (.945). Also, wrist pin do not fit my Gen 4 connecting rods.
    Does anyone know the diameter of Gen 4 wrist pin? 
    Should I buy new one in  .927 diameter?

    Thanks!

     

  8. Stock exhaust from rockauto is somewhat cheap.
    Also, Summit Jegs sells basic dual exhaust setups that are cheap. 

    If you just want to quiet down your exhaust, replace your glasspacks with quiet chambered mufflers. It's cheap.

    • Like 1
  9. I see 3 different brands offered on Rock Auto, which one did you guys choose? By the way, my sending unit does not have a second return line tube, I will need the single line unit.

     

    Chris, below is a screenshot of my order (I previously said "without" return line but it's "WITH" return line)  : 

    post-578-0-91552100-1505376239_thumb.jpg

  10. Little update.

    Since my last post, things didn't move as expected.
    Engine is still in my garage, and the garage is a real P***  (clay floor...).
    post-578-0-44540500-1504782218_thumb.jpg

    We were looking to buy a house but things where a bit complicated.

    Engine blocks is waiting for paint, new pistons, new camshaft, new lifters and trunion upgrade.
    I'm a bit stuck with wiring harness and I'm considering buying a new standalone harness to get things done.
     

  11. Hi,

     

    I have to buy an electric fuel pump for my 5.3 swap.
    I'm curious, how did you deal with that?

    Did you reuse the stock non baffled tank or inline tank?
    I want to avoid inline sending unit because of the noise.

     

    Is there a some kind of retrofit in-tank fuel pump ?

     

    Thanks for your help!

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