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Shnalla

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Posts posted by Shnalla

  1. Bonjour Romain,

     

    Concur with the above, here is some more food for thought:

     

    1. Since it may be unclear how long that leak has been there, you may wish to check the fluid level before doing too much driving until you fix this.

    2. When you drive the car, the fluid in the diff heats up significantly, raising the pressure inside. This pressure is releaved by the vent fitting, typically a plastic piece pressed into the main axle on top. If this were to get clogged or if for some other reason the pressure were not able to be equalized the pressure may blow the seals so have a look at the condition of this valve and the other seals.

    3. As for the noise, if you are convinced it is coming from inside, taking the diff cover off you can look at the conditions of the gears and take some measurements to better analyse if you have a problem or not.

    4. Gear oil smell is strong and not pleasant, keep in mind if you are working in a closed space.

    5. Here is an album on a rear end refurb, Link to Rear End Overhaul. Although long and perhaps boring, part of it is about the diff rebuild. May be something in there you find useful if some surgery ends up required.

     

    Good luck with the troubleshooting.

     

     

     

     

    Thanks for this useful album !

    Btw, MG, is this a damper removal tool you are using to remove the yoke ?

  2. Also check the universal joints. That could be the clanking noise you hear when putting it into drive.

     

    Yes Bob that was my first thought !

     

    Originally Posted By: footballubet
    99.9% of pinion seal leaks are the pinion seal itself. Think how old the seal is...40+ years maybe. I would not be afraid to install a new seal and clean up the surface on the pinion. I'd hate for you to tear into a complete rebuild for a $10 seal. While you are there you should remover the cover and replace all the fluid at least. Then re-evaluate if you think a rebuild is necessary. You won't be out that much.

     

    Just my opinion on the pinion!

     

    You're right Scott, that is what I plan to do. Check the gears, check if play exists in the pinion flange, then refill the axle with new fluid. Btw I don't know how old is the fluid and I guess the seal is 40+ years...

     

    Thank you all for your input !

  3. Thank you Rod.

     

    I found a video that shows how to change the seal

    . It doesn't look complicated...

    Also in my Repair Manual, i see a tool called "pinion Flange removal". I think I have to buy this special tool.

  4. Thanks for your answer Rod.

     

    As you said, it would be a good idea to know the root of my problem. I do not want to replace the seal every 6 months !

     

    I am waiting for others suggestions before making a decision.

  5. Hi everybody,

     

    Do you have any idea how to fix this rear end leak ?

    I want to keep my car on the road, I do not want to tear down my axle (My car is parked in the street...).

     

    rearend.jpg

     

    Thank you in advance !

  6. Originally Posted By: Shnalla
    Hi Guys,

     

    I know Monte Carlo all have dome light, but I am wondering if Monte ever came with under dash lights ?

     

    Also, I will fix ma dashboard ligths (nothing works...).

    What is the best way to do It? Should I completely remove my dashboard?

     

    Hi, Romain,

     

    I'll take a crack at your questions since I've been working on both of those areas on my Monte just recently.

     

    First, as Bob said, the lights under the dash on each side are called courtesy lights. My '70 SS had them installed at the factory (I believe as RPO U29 "I P Lamp" shown on the Build Sheet below.):

     

    P6010038.jpg

     

    My '70 4-speed car did not have the Courtesy lights (nor was U29 on its Build Sheet) so when Murray (Murphy) recently offered a complete set of under hood, courtesy and trunk lights for sale, I bought them. Unfortunately, when I consulted my 1970 Chevelle/El Camino/Monte Carlo Assembly Manual, it did not list the U29 in the RPO section. As luck would have it, I did find a very helpful drawing in the main Electrical Section 12 on page 391. Although it was actually listed for the Chevelle Convertible only, it works beautifully on the Monte. You can see the page that shows the courtesy lights and the necessary wiring harness in the photo below:

     

    P1164574.jpg

     

    On each end of your dash, a wire runs to the plunger switch in the adjacent door sill. That is the switch that connects that wire to ground (the frame) when either door is opened. It turns on your dome light. There is a terrible temptation to simply splice into that wire as it runs right through the area where the courtesy lamps are going to be mounted but don't do it that way. Putting additional bulbs in series on that circuit will progressively drop the voltage at each light in the circuit. Instead, make up a simple wiring harness just like the one shown in the Assembly manual and pull 12V power from the BAT (fused Battery) tab on your fuse panel. Note: you do NOT need to loosen or remove your dash to install courtesy lights BUT you almost have to remove the dash pad (unless you just happen to like trying to see and work while laying on your back on the front floor boards! grin) I am very pleased with my new courtesy lights and will probably be replacing the bulbs with LEDs soon.

     

    Now, regarding your instrument panel lights not working. You will certainly have to remove the dash pad and probably have to loosen (not completely remove) your dash to find and fix that problem. It might be a ground problem (since you have lost ALL your dash lights) so I would start looking there. As near as I can tell, the instrument panel ground wire terminates BEHIND the dash UNDER the headlight switch. Check first to see if the threaded plug that holds your headlight switch to the dash is tight. If it is loose, you may have lost the ground contact.

     

    The next thing I would suspect is the flexible Printed Circuit Board (PCB) on the back of the instrument pod/cluster. Refer to the photo journal by clicking on the link below. Slides 4 through 12 related directly to loosening the dash (not completely removing it) and pulling out the instrument cluster (if necessary).

     

    Full Gauge Upgrade Project Journal

     

    If your PCB has been shorted out (easy to do - ask me how I know), you can order a replacement from the Parts Place, Inc and other supply houses for around $90 US. If you have an idiot light dash, this is a great time to upgrade to a full gauge instrument panel (includes a tach and three analog gauges) because you will get a new PCB in the kit which you would need anyway. NOTE: If you choose not to upgrade, be sure to order the correct PCB for the dash you have because they are quite different.

     

    I hope this answers some of your questions. Good luck getting it all sorted out!

     

    Thank you Dennis for this GREAT answer !!!

    In fact, most of my instrument panel lights are dead, but not all of them.

    I guess previous owner didn't care about light grin

    In a first time I will simply try new lights (I have ordered LED cool ), and I will let you know if it works (I hope so....).

     

    Thank you again !

  7. Some do some don't it was a light package. I put them in my 70 a few years back and when I got the new harness I put them back in. it's a light socket with two wires coming out of it one is a ground and the other is the power. When the doors are open the dome light comes on and so do the under dash lights if you turn the headlight knob to the left they come on.

     

    Thank you Robert.

    I will check my build sheet to see if my car has the light package...

  8. Hi Guys,

     

    I know Monte Carlo all have dome light, but I am wondering if Monte ever came with under dash lights ?

     

    Also, I will fix ma dashboard ligths (nothing works...).

    What is the best way to do It? Should I completely remove my dashboard?

  9. The 5th Digit in the VIN in 1972 indicates your engine. All kinds of Montes were sold in CA. The H indicates your car was a 350-2 barrel.

    J indicated a 4 barrel

    U-402

    W- 454

     

    Nice find on the buildsheet.

    Thanks for the input Jared.

    I thought California Montes were only 350 4BBL with A.I.R or 402 wink

  10. well that proves not all California montes had 4 barrel carbs
    Pretty crazy thing indeed...!

     

     

    Originally Posted By: 72-CLASSIC_RIDE
    Nice Find! wink

     

    Built in CA. & sold to a CA. dealership with a 2bbl Carb. This confirms not all 1st Gen Montes were sold with 4 bbl. Carbs in CA.

     

    Thanks for sharing your find with us. grin

     

    Doug

    I'm happy to share it with you cool

     

    Originally Posted By: Mo's70MCs
    Wow! what a find indeed.. Selman Chevrolet is still in business today, still in he City of Orange.. Chapman & Tustin.. huge lot.

    I really wish I have vacations in california just to see the original owner of my Monte and the Dealer...

  11. Based from the information I have read, all (V8) CA. Montes were 4 bbl carbed & all with smog control. Having the Build Sheet would help confirm where shipped from assembly plant.

    My 72 Monte was built at Van Nuys, sold to a dealership in CA. was 4 bbl carbed & smog control. I believe CA. was the only State that specified this requirement.

     

    Doug

     

    I am still looking for the build sheet...

    My Monte has A.I.R, the VIN says 2BBL, and it is a 2BLL... sounds strange crazy

  12. Can someone educate me on 1972 california Montes ?

     

    Mine was built in Van Nuys. I read on wikipedia and some other sites that california Montes were only equiped with the 4bbl Quadrajet but my Monte VIN says it's a 2BBL.

     

    What is specific to california cars in 1972 (Smog equipment, Engine...) ?

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