MonteFox89

PROBLEM SOLVED! after going over countless hours of reading materials I figured out what was causing my car to die at acceleration! Turns out that it was the carb! seems it was getting to much fuel at acceleration which was causing a Rich bog down (causes the car to die) where as if it was lean it would have just sputtered and skipped (or seemingly skipped). So I furthered my reading and learned what was really causing the issues with it being to rich! turns out my accelerator pump spring was let out to much and it was force feeding my carb a bit early so I tightened it up and then drove it to town and had not a single problem. Well, I did have one problem, the gas tank is on the back and I couldn't find a gas pump on the end so I had to wait and then re-align my car twice with the pump to actually get the hose to reach because I don't have a passenger mirror! lol I'll get the hang of it!

The power valve has a very little 6 on it and my rebuild kit came with a 6, 7, 7, and adjustable. I go with my elders advice around here normally lol and they suggested that since it was overloading in the past that I should be putting the smallest one I have in it.

positive that I got it on number 1 wire lol I actually set it by the plug it's self so that way I knew it was on the right one lol ahhh I think this is the worst thing I'll ever be working with on an engine lol

still new to working on the distributor and the timing so bear with me lol. Basically I have no tach to really check particular things that absolutely require a Tach. As for everything else I.E. Vacuum Advance Canister, it's working fine same for the advance weight. But as I said earlier I don't exactly have a tach so I'm blind firing but it's been working slightly so far lol

ok so... I'm having issues! I had my timing up to 30+ before I actually had time to get a timing light in there and set it on advanced 13. but now that I have it set on advanced 13 I'm wondering if it's not getting enough gas, and if that's the case I would need to up my power valve in my carb. I'll list the symptoms here; when going between 0-15 mph it doesn't wanna accelerate, when I come to a stop it likes to die if I sit longer than 4 seconds, and if I punch it from a stopped position it sputters and tries to go then dies. Any help is appreciated! P.S. 355, .30 over pistons, mild cam, +13 timing, 650 Holley Carb (made in 76), smallest power valve for the 650 carb (I do have about 2-3 extra valves sitting around).

hmm, in hind sight, none of this may relate to you because the carb is from '76... and I still have the original engine in the '72... soo if you're running something newer, I'm sure it's different X.x

hey, I actually had a similar issue about a week ago. I kicked off my edelbrock quadrajet and threw on a 650 holley. I know you're going higher than a 650 but this may also help. Basic rules of carb switching, Check all Vaccum lines, floats, and also check your power valves to make sure you're not flooding out your carb. I had a power valve that was to large and I had to drop it down just so I could stay running. also, Most of everyone here may know this and is well experienced with cars but, Those vaccum lines at the back of the carb running to the master cylinder.... yeah those are important too... ahaha... I didn't reconnect mine at first and tried to seal it off.... Don't try it... not worth it! besides all of this. if it's not a new carb, simply try rebuilding it *shrug* couldn't hurt anything more than your wallet, and the engine/carb if you rebuild it wrong O.o I trust you though, I mean hey, you were smart enough to ask these guys