FullMonte

Thanks to all who have provided help. Ian, you were right. After removing the calipers I noticed that the rubber on the brake lines are cracked in quite a few places and you can see the wire underneath. Any suggestions of where to get brake lines for these old cars? I was about to go visit the OPG website, but I recall hearing others say that they are not happy with that particular company.

Sorry....last message should read. "Thanks to you FGMCC members. Checked with NAPA and rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings?"

Thanks to you rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings? Thanks for the best wishes. In the middle of 6 months of chemo. Think of the worst case of the flu you ever had. No fun at all, but the car is really helping out!

Bringing this up again. Talked to a local tire dealer and he suggested Checker as the place to buy brake pads and rotors. $15 for the pads; $60 each for the rotors (with hubs). He said if I have the money he would recommend all Wagner parts, but they are about twice the cost. What have you used/suggest? I want to do this right and want to get it back on the road. Should I replace calipers as well?

Hello! Back again after a prolonged absence. Diagnosed with the "Big C" recently and oncologist suggested something other than chemo to focus on, so I am dusting off my 71 - good therapy! It has been sitting for nearly 2 years, and when I took it in for an inspection on Thursday, it was clear that the front brake pads and rotors need to be replaced (all original stuff - 70K original miles). While I have never done brakes before, figured it is a good time to learn and have heard that it is not that complex. True? Any directions you can point me, suggestions on parts or step-by-step instructions would be greatly appreciated. Members have helped me in the past, and I am sure all of your experience will help me know. Thanks! George

Now I'm really confused. Looked on the axle tube (driver's side - near the differential). Swear the numbers read 67890. No letters that I can see unless the "6" is a "G" but I don't think so. Any insights?

Big J (or anyone else) I inherited the car from my aunt who bought it new off the lot. She was a single, 3rd grade teacher who only drove it back and forth to school (55K miles in 32 years...I swear this is true). I can pretty much guarantee that she did not do anything to the car other than regularly scheduled maintenance, so the code on the axle tube may be the ticket. Any idea where is the code located exactly and how I decipher the letters/numbers? Thanks, George

Not sure where to put this question, so I will ask it here. In order to put in new gears, I need to know what I have in there now. Can I get that information from the VIN? All I know for sure is that it is a 71 with open differential and a 10 bolt cover. When I look at Summit they have all manner of options that include diameter, spline, teeth, etc., that just confuse me. Does anyone know what the specs are on the rear end and what I need to purchase in addition to the ring and pinion? Is everything I normally need included in the set? Thanks

Sad, sad news... I have been out of the country for a couple of weeks. Just jumped online and read the news about George Lines. What a blow. As I recall, he was the first person to respond to my first question when I joined the club a couple of years ago. Made me feel right at home. Luckily, my car is sporting a set of arm rest pads courtesy of George, so I will think of him everytime I sit in the car. As much as he gave to the club members, I am sure all of you contributed to the quality of his life too. He loved his Monte and loved talking to you about yours. George Knight

Bringing this up again. Still trying to change the back end from the open to a limited slip or posi and better street gears. Is this a good deal? http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/store_detail.asp?id=59 Thanks!

Any ideas on what I can expect to pay for the parts necessary to change to a posi and change gears at the same time? I am assuming everything will fit in the same housing.

Thanks for the info, Mike. I am thinking the 3.73 is what I will go with. More confusion... When I look in the Summit catalog, I see about four different references to GM 10-bolt 3.73 gears: 7.5/7.625", 27 spline pinion 8.20", B or P axle, 27 spline 8.20", 25 spline 8.50", 25 spline Is there a way to easily tell what I need? They also make a note regarding a 3.08 and lower carrier versus a 3.23 and higher carrier. What's that all about? Thanks! George

Funny thing about education... the more I learn, often, the more confused I get. Case in point: I've finished about all I will do with engine upgrade (new manifold, headers, 600 CFM carb and mild cam) and now ready to upgrade the rear end, but not sure which way to go. I have the 350 with regular transmission (300?). Not sure what the gears were/are, but I know it is not a posi. My goal is to make the car less of a highway cruiser and more of a "neighborhood bruiser." I seldom drive it over 20 miles at a time. Trouble is I don't know the first thing about the ratios that I should get. I hear everthing from 2:73 to 4:11. What were these cars equipped with in the first place, and what do you recommend for an upgrade to make it jump while still being capable of driving on the highway without winding it up too much. Also, is it possible to add a posi (this is a 10-bolt) or should I try to find happiness with one wheel? Thanks! George

Andreas, e Did you do the work yourself? My guess is you did. How much would I expect to pay to have someone else install everything? Also, were the new axles necessary? Georg

Next project (after suspension upgrade) is changing the rear end in my 71. All I know is that it is a 10-bolt and it came with the standard 350/2bbl set up. Beyond that, I;m clueless. I am assuming it is a non-posi, and I want to install a posi setup with gears that give me better juice off the line. I am sure about 100 of you have done this sort of thing. Any recommendations on what products to use, what ratios on the gears, and how much I can expect to spend? You folks are terrific...like automtive consultants to those of us who are challenged. Thanks! George

Daryl, Thanks for the help on this. I have a couple of questions. Are saying that I should remove the yoke (with the U-joint in it) from the whole drive shaft? I didn't know that was possible. Still a little unclear about what I should be hitting with my hammer: the U-joint or the drive shaft. Maybe I am not understanding the terms. The yoke has two holes, one near the top on either arm. The U-joint has four arms (north, south, east, west) and pivots on the east/west arms stuck in those two holes. By the way, the caps I lost came off of the other two arms (north and south) that run the same direction as the drive shaft. Since the yoke is cast, it seems the only way the old U-joint will come out is to slide it all the way to one side of the yoke(east or west), to expose then remove the cap, then move it the opposite direction to remove the other cap. With those caps removed, I should be able to get it out, shouldn't I? I don't understand how resting the yoke arms on top of a vice will help move the U-joint side to side. Just to be clear, this is the U-joint at the rear end of the drive shaft. I'm really not is simple-minded as the above words might indicate. Thanks again! George

Thanks to a lot of help from all of you on the board, I finally crossed my fingers and cranked up the Monte today after a 4-month learning experience of pulling it apart and putting it back together again. You couldn't wipe the grin off of my face. Yeah, I know; it was only a new manifold, carb and distributor, but it was my first, real "wrench-turning" experience. The best thing was watching my step son almost set his hair on fire squirting in some starter fluid. Makes up for all the times he laughed when I knocked the skin off of my knuckles. Everything seems to be working fine. One small leak around the water neck, but that should be easy to fix. I do have one other problem. Because it was necessary to tow the Monte a few months ago, I dropped the drive shaft and set it aside. When trying to install it today (so I could take it for a test drive), one of the caps on the U-joint came off and before I knew it those little bearings were spread all over. Then the other cap came off and I was sunk. Rather than try to re-lube and rebuild, I went to NAPA and plopped down the 12 bucks for a new U-joint. But I can't seem to get the old U-joint out of the yoke. The retainer rings were really rusty, but they eventually came out. But the U-joint will not budge. I must be doing something wrong. Do I pound it from one side of the yoke and/or the other? Has anyone else had this problem? I am so anxious to race around the block, I am ready to take it to a mechanic on Monday, but if it is something I can do, well....who needs to sleep. Thanks again to everyone who offered their help and obvious expertise. I am now your number one fan. Is this a great country, or what! George

Thanks gentelmen, If it is indeed a bent bumper bracket (say that three times fast) are the available through Monte parts suppliers, or do I have to go to eBay?

Hello again, As I look at the front of the car, it is obvious that it was hit at some point. I've also come to the conclusion that whoever did the body work should be banned from practicing his or her art. I notice that the passenger side of the bumper is over an inch to far back so that it is hitting the left fender. You know how there is an indentation on the lower front corner of each panel side for the bumper? Well the right side looks good...the left side is just out of whack. I want to hate the bumper, but realized it is not the bumper's fault; it's how/where it is attached to the frame. Is there a way I can adjust that bumper on the left side, or do I need to take it to a body shop (a good one)? I hate to pull the bumper off if it is a frame problem that I won't be able to do much about. Thanks George

Pyro, Did you add the posi at the same time you changed the gears, or did you already have the 12 bolt. I am interested in the cost of changing my stock 10 bolt to a posi with better gears. George

Since I will be replacing the manifold and installing a 4 bbl carb, I will replace the old stock points. Conventional wisdom is..."go with an HEI." Pertronix tech help said go with Ignitor II and a new coil. It will fit in the old distributor. Is this an effective, reasonable option, or should I spring for the extra $$ and go for a new distributor? George

Nothing beats a picture to help understand what you all are saying. I don't have the bucket seats, so the console is not really an option. The speakers in the kick panel grills are still intriguing. Any problem with moisture getting to them. The damper that opens and closes on mine is pretty rusty in spots. Water is getting in there somewhere, and I don't want to expose the speakers. Thanks again for describing your various set-ups. It really helps expand the mind.

Monte.....did you install the speakers between the vent and the door or install them inside the vent like "Fatso"? Fatso....(Sorry; sounds kinda rude). What sized speakers will fit and how did you secure them? And delmonte.....I am interested in the "rail system" you described. Thanks for sending the pictures. I looked at Crutchfield for a CD deck. The selection is a bit overwhelming. I am looking for a modestly priced unit (around $150) that fits the classic look and can be upraded. What do you Monte owners use?

Gave up on the kick panel speakers...no way to effectively paint them to match the Sandlewood interior. The just wouldn't adhere to the ABS plastic. Besides you loose the vents when you install the kick panel speakers. So, back to square 1. Want to keep the original AM radio and avoid cutting anything up. Has anyone installed a stereo in the glove compartment. Can you/How do you operate controls (what kind of i.e., remote). Does anyone make a bracket that allows the stereo deck to hide under the dash and swing out when needed? How about speakers under the seats? George