RealRed70
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Posts posted by RealRed70
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I have some very nice 71/72 Monte Carlo steering wheel scripts with the wood grain for sale. Private message me for more information. Thank you, Dan.
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Factory tach was an option for 70-72. The brown tach wire goes to the negative post on the coil. Not the distributor. If no tach was ordered the no tach wiring will be present. The full gauge dash used a different harness from what was used with idiot light dash.
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8 inch Rally wheels were not an option. They were Corvette issue only.
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I am kind of curious why you changed the original interior color to a non original color on an original SS 454 car? I get the fact that your engine is not the correct one, but wouldn't you want to build the car as close as possible to how it came new? Are you also going with custom wheels?
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The guy who made the plastic cups is Andy Filkins/ Dash Doctor 413-822-1046. This will be an HVAC business #, but it is the correct # to get a hold of Andy. I am not sure if he is still making them, but it is worth a try. Let us know if he was able to help you.
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It looks like your gauge cluster lens could use a good polishing to really make it pop.
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Welcome to the Club. Very nice looking Monte you have there.
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Well, what about starting a thread as the original poster had asked?
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As stated already, your blower motor is fine. The problem is in the switch. As stated before either the resistor or the switch itself is bad.
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If your defog motor runs fine, then the motor is alright. Your switch controls the high and low speed. Your switch may be bad.
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The gray wire for the lamps is in a fused location in the fuse block.
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That gray wire does not turn into the pink wire, The pink wire is just getting it's power from the same location as the gray wire.
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That gray wire would be power for a rear view mirror with a map light. I would have to bet that you have a rear view mirror with a map light. Do you? Any more wiring questions? That Pink looking wire is from another power accessory that your car has. What other power options do you have?
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Your welcome.
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That single orange looks exactly like the orange used for the clock, if one was ordered from GM. Do you already have a wire to your clock if your car has one?
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That single orange wire is not for a console. I can see the correct black connector for a console in that picture. It is the connector with the orange, gray and white wire in it. The console connector is just below the single orange wire and to the right.
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Post a picture of the orange wire you are talking about. I should be able to identify it. Please show the connector on the end of it. To my knowledge the orange wire should be plugged into the fuse box in the BAT position. This is the way that I have seen them from the factory.
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If the motor runs, it is not shot. The switch controls the high and low speed. The pigtails were if you had another power option that needed power. You would then tie into power there.
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All the orange wires that have connectors on them in your dash harness are constant hot wires. Meaning that they draw right from the battery. This would include your clock wire, cigarette lighter wire and glove box light wire. These are all orange in color. You have a battery spot in your fuse block that is marked BAT. Plug that blue connector with the orange wire into the BAT location. It should fit there. Now if your door jamb switch wires are tied in with those white wires on your courtesy lights and you plug that blue connector in the BAT location your courtesy lights should go on when you open one or both of your cars doors. Be sure the bulbs are in working condition.
Now if you plug that black connector for the defogger in the Ignition location, which is marked IGN, and you have the rest of the defogger wiring correctly run, your defogger will most likely work. Do not forget the ground on the defogger motor. Be sure the fuse is good.
Just for sheets and giggles please try my suggestions. I am trying to help you. Your courtesy light wires have been messed with and most likely were not plugged in where they were supposed to be from GM.
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That does not look exactly like it did from the factory, but it will work. The orange wires from the courtesy lights on the driver and passenger side should go into the blue female connector as you said. From the factory there would have been a short orange wire with a male connector on it like the red wire for the defogger has. Plug that blue female connector into the fuse box in the Bat. position. Slide it over the made spade in the fuse box. The red power wire for the defogger goes in the ignition position, which is two spots down from where you just plugged in the courtesy light power wire. The extra plug on each of those wires is in case you have more power options to plug in. There are only so many spaces on the fuse block.
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The top black connector in your picture is where the end of your radio harness plugs into. You are missing the radio harness. You can purchase them on ebay. You can find used ones and also some that are reproduced. Look at your other thread, I stated what all your connectors in your picture go to.
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The black one above it goes to your heater control. The top black one goes to your radio wire harness, which plugs into your radio..
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Is the connector white/ clear in color on the one in your hand? If so it get plugged in to the top of the heater box on a car that does not have A/C.
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Post a picture of the radio wiring that you have and I can tell you if it is for your radio. There is more than one type of radio connector for a 1970 radio.
1972 Bucket Seat Back Buttons
in Interior Tech
Posted
The buttons from the factory were pushed through the foam. Then a backing plate was slid over the tangs, then they were bent over. Just as shown in the picture in the first post.