Murphy

Been think about converting to a 4speed (I know, its more complicated than you think) but I've been looking at acquiring parts so one day I can slam some gears....... Anyway, have found several muncies & saginaw units, which is the better? Leaning towards M20 or M21 Muncie personally.

Holy cow, those last 2 post where a real eye opener! Thanks guys for the input. Looks like I need to come up with plan B or C!

WHere can I get replacement body mounts? I only really want 2 as all the others look pretty. Anybody have any good used ones?

Both are great ideas, so I'll be digging into this problem soon. The winter time here in Arizona is when I get all my work done as the garage is too hot during the summer. I keep reading various posts about people packing there Monte's away for the winter........that's why I moved to Phoenix years ago. Sick of the 5 months of Iowa winters!

THX for the info,the rear sets of mounts look good as I've done alot of trunk repair work. Dealing with rusted bolts/nuts has really been a battle. The drivers floor has many pinholes & is somewhat soft so I'm planning to replace a section of that floor anyway, a few more metal cuts/welds won't hurt if necessary.............Don't forget the choice words either.

I've discovered that I have 2 body to frame mounts that are trashed....under the doors, can these be replaced without removing the body? Are there access holes under the carpet?

I've never seen the smaller rally caps, what did they originally come on? Who sells them?

Especially when that 4-barrel kicks in!

Excellant explaination......We used to do it in the 70's cause there were no alternative options at the time..

Continuing my quest to coat the underside with POR15...finished the axle,differential cover,painted springs,changed the diff oil. Started saturday - finished to this point so I can watch the race............

Roger that, guess that are installed correctly..........

I've pulled my springs/shocks this morning as I am continuing my quest to POR15 the under carriage, I was told by previous owner that the springs were upgraded. The coils of the springs gradually get closer together at one end, which end goes up? The end with the tighter gap between each coil? Looks like they could get mounted either way??

Sounds Bad...real bad!! Tell Scott if he needs the chrome pieces that he's missing (hockey sticks)above the bumper, I've got a spare set.

This is GREAT info from everyone, thanks!

What is the stock bore? playing with that calculator I need bore,stroke,cylinder # ? Since mine is bored .030, I'll just add that to the stock bore #, correct?

How will I know which crank/stroke is in my 350? I know it was bored .030 by previous owner & the crank was not replaced.

so the guys with a 383 have a different crank to get a longer stroke? Is this still using a 350 block that is bored some dimension?

I see on various posts where people list their engines size in cubic inches........Some show a 355 or a 383 or 385. Are the dimensions (CI) after a 350 block has been bored to say .030 or .050?

That's the info I'm looking for..........what a great site!

Absolutely, I will call to confirm the sway bar.. http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40082/10002/-1 But, do you think round would be better than the traditional square arm? I would think so..........

I'm planning on adding a rear sway bar & need to box my lower control arms....I see at JEG's, they now have round lower control arms which are cheaper than buying the boxed version. Or I get the kit inwhich I need to have someone weld in the bracket to my existing rusty arms to box them. Seems to me that the round version would be a much more stable option. Looking for some experienced input.........

OK. I have 15 x 7's on this 71 and noticed that on the humps near the lugnut it is stamped 'GM' and 'C' I'm certain these are the FW code....Just like to learn more info. I possibly might go with 16x8's on the rear but that's waaay down on the list.

Where is the code stamped on the rim for pre-72 rally's? Does the tire need to be removed?

In the future, I'm planning on pulling the TH350 & installing a manual (possibly a Keisler 5-speed)so that's why I asked the question.........bottom line is that I will need to close a vaccuum port on carb?

THX, I understand that...but whats different between the auto/manual style carb?