TrunkMatt
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Posts posted by TrunkMatt
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Yeah... I am thinking I need a Wideband guage to really get this dialed in right.
Been looking at Innovate's LC-1:
http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorspor...3403&sr=8-2
I think I'll bite the bullet and grab one. Merry Christmas to me...
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List number - as in SKU / Item number? 0-86670bk
Now I have it staggered at 76 Primary, 79 Secondary now (on a 383).
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OOoooh!! You have an 010 casting number!! Good find... that is a Higher Nickel content block... those are the Unicorns of GM Smallblocks (people seek them out for their magical properties, which aren't really proven).
Metallurgy myth confirmation:
Look behind the Timing cover for more numbers. You may see a 010 or a 020 - or both behind the timing cover and that indeed means (GM verified) it has higher ratio TIN and NICKEL than conventional castings. If it is just 010, that is nickel content 1% higher (partial unicorn - still damn good), if it is 010 AND 020 it is 1% Tin and 2% Nickel (the mega-unicorn!!)
In any case, if the block is in good condition and is 010 with a 4 bolt main - Turn that baby into a stroker!! The extra hardness (myth or truth?) means you can safely get some more rev's!
If it is indeed both an 010 and 020 (under timing cover) --- part it and sell it on ebay and make a bunch of cash off the Unicorn hunters.
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...I was talking with My friend who thinks I should get the top end kit with Aluminum heads and cam and everything. He wants me to do the Edlbrock top end combo that is 2500.00 but it is not a Roller Cam....
Step 1) Never talk to your friends about engine builds, or you'll be poor. I learned this first hand a while ago... friends love to spend your money. I think many of us agree :-). Granted, talking to a bunch of car club guys on the internet is not much better...
Step 2) Talk to an engine builder as a consultation & get the real insight... they usually pride themselves on setting things up correctly and don't let you spend needlessly.
My personal take (and discuss with your mechanic):
Tests show changing heads to aluminum (and doing nothing else) only gives you a 5 horsepower gain - because they run a little cooler. On a big-block... probably a few more - but not much... I wouldn't consider a BB high-revving enough to make that much difference.
Honestly, If you are doing aluminum heads you should do things to take advantage of them or you are wasting your $$$. Things like: domed pistons & higher compression. Otherwise you are just throwing heads on for show, and not go...
If you are not going to do a piston job to really take advantages of what the aluminum heads gives you (a chance at higher compression and better heat evac), than just stick with the cam... because the differences will be not be too noticeable outside of looks.
My opinion on Money better spent for a few extra horses:
If you really want some cheap additional horsepower (5-10) with your build that is a bit more affordable... just put on a better oil pan that has a crank-scraper and windage tray... it'll keep the oil from Roping.
Moroso makes a good series of Pans for a good cost (I think I paid $275 w/ scraper and windage tray)
Here is a pic of one for small blocks - I think you are BB so there should be a comprable one...
Here is how it looks on a motor (mine)... and you can indeed see peeking out it once it is installed (looks nice in the car)
Since I built small-block 383 Stroker, you'll notice I did go with aluminum heads... with a hell of a piston-job to mate. Again, I did not go roller cam in this, however... flat tappet. I found my $$$ better invested in the crank / pistons / stroke based on what I want to do with this motor. Nice street cruiser that really puts on the power when needed... but can also get 19-22mpg highway
Oh - and to put your price on that Edelbrock top-end kit in Perspective... I had this whole motor built by a professional builder with high quality parts and labor & dyno tests for a total of $3245. It runs close to 500 horses & pulls like a train (I built it for High-Torque so I can run my 2.73 gears).
You could nearly build an awesome smallblock for the price you are thinking of spending on just Edelbrock stuff. Just think about your spend for a second on those heads. Edelbrock is more of a pricey name...
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If you have the $$$ I'd say go roller. The only reason some of us don't is initial cost... it is a hell of an up-front fee. However, as a result of not going roller, we will all be rebuilding our motors sooner than a guy with a good roller setup (which some of us are ok with... it allows for more future fun!)
I just had my 383 built with Flat Tappets... mainly because I plan to pull it out long before my cam dies... probably in about 2 years when I am done rebuilding the original numbers matched 350 for my monte (which will indeed have full rollers). Whatever car that 383 ends up in (yet to be found), will call for a different cam etc. again... and I may move to roller then.
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Cam - can't help ya... but CARB, I can back up all of the above. For a 350 you shouldn't need 750 CFM. You'll be fine with 650 and below...
I run a Holley Ultra Sreet Avenger 670 CFM on my 383, and it is a hell of a breather...
If you do go Holley, I really like the new Vacuum secondaries they have (as long as you tune them right). They sound really cool when they open up.
You also probably already know this - but don't forget to buy the Jet Kit, and the Accelerator Pump Cam & Nozzle kits, as Holleys NEVER are set right out of the box (despite their claims)...
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Since yours looks like a standard 350 (reading your signature) -- get the standard Edelbrock Performer dual plane / split plane intake... or a Weiand Stealth. Your car will thank you as the higher vacuum will idle smoother etc.
I honestly prefer Weiand, because they have better placed mounting holes for throttle return spring brackets, etc. etc. Maybe it is just me, but I seem to not be able to have the mounting holes line up right on my Edelbrock intake... as they are just really a modded Ford intake... even after all these years. Where you'll really notice it is in the Transmission kickdown & throttle bracket assembly mounting position. Edelbrocks choice in hole placement is just a bit odd.
If you had a 383, or a heavy cam'd racing 350 that really needed the extra air, I'd suggest maybe a looking to an airgap or a single... but it really takes a lot of engine to need more than the standard Weiand or Edelbrock Performer Split-plane / dualplane's.
If you really need to later, you can always just add a 1 inch riser plate for $10 and get a better effect than airgap gives for a lot less $$$...
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Holley 670 Ultra Street Avenger (single pumper) w/ Vacuum Secondaries.
I am now at 76 Jets for my primaries & the spark plug color looks good. I was getting some carb backfire at 72 / leaning out.
So, now that my primaries are good, what do you all should my secondaries be in relation??
I cant find much info on this... everything online speaks to primaries only & I don't have any holes cut in the collectors (yet) for installing an O2 Sensor (maybe next year)... so I can't take a reading electronically.
I currently am running 78's on the secondaries, and it seems to be fine - plenty of pull when they open up.
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If you ease into the accelerator vs mashing the pedal from a stop what is the behavior?? Is there a bog when you mash the pedal?
I had a similar issue, and had to up my Holley's pump shot nozzle to a .35 Accelerator Nozzle (from .31) , and run the Green Pump Cam instead of the pink...
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Leave it to Matt.. square peg.. round hole..
You know me so well already!!!Hey -- btw I may be up in your neck of the woods regularly. Potentially starting a new thing with that tech company everyone knows up there.
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Wait a minute.. How are those square ports?
Correct - They are OVAL... after talking to some exhaust shops... if they are not round and not D -- they are OVAL (even if they are square). They actually fit OUTSIDE of the ports which is what I need.... all the other D shaped or Rounds would have cut the corders / and thus leaked / restricted flow.
These, being slightly bigger (taller) allow a smooth unobstructed flow.
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Mufflers??? What mufflers *grin* ???
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Well - the Hedman 68863's ended up being a perfect fit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-68863/
Now I just need to source 1 inch locking fasteners from Stage 8... the 3/4 are just a bit on the short side as the flanges on these hedmans are super-thick (really nice).
I am impressed with the Hedman quality...
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Ya know... I really don't know where they are sourced from. I want to say they were custom milled in the machine-shop here in Portland (Portland Engine Works).
I'll find out tomorrow. They look like the SSRE / Patriot square heads though -- but the surface is much flatter where the flanges mount.
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Need some help... we are having trouble sourcing block-hugger headers that fit the Square Exhaust ports on the Alum Heads of my 383 build:
We've tried about 6 different sets of standard / oval & D shaped... nothing fits quite right... Can't really find SQUARE in the shops here. I am afraid of ordering online as they are hard to return if they don't fit right.
If anyone has any advice to a Block Hugger, ceramic coated header that matches square port aluminum heads on a small bock --- I'd love to hear it.
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You make a good point... I guess we are assuming the idle is set correctly based on his knowledge that he posted. But, yeah - it Could just be an idle speed adjustment.
What RPM is it idling at in Neutral / Park?? Do you have Tachometer??
Depending on your cam you should be between 800-1000 rpm in park neutral, and 600-750 in gear with brakes on.
I like mine at 975 in neutral and 700 in gear... but I have a cam that needs a bt more idle.
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Quick fix: You can also try running your vacuum advance to your distributer off the manifold vacuum and see if that helps keeps the timing advanced enough... if it does & things work better you know you have a weak vacuum off the other port & your timing is a bit off.
I used to have this problem on my Qjet where the vacuum was low. It was my Quadrajet ports & vacuum leak. It needed a rebuild... it happens when the internal plug holes are not sealed correctly and you get some internal leaks when idling when warm at stoplights etc.
While I opened up my Qjet for repair I put an Edelbrock 650 performer on and it went away... and idles a lot smoother... so I left it off.
I love the power of the Qjets though. You probably need a carb cleaning / needles adjusted for idle / and a complete rebuild of it. Should be between $100 - $200 at a good rebuilder of Q Jets.
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Yeah - even this small furry creature knows about the dangers of Fram Filters.... check out the response when I asked "Should I use a Fram Filter?"
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Windage tray mounts like this:
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Okay - on my 383 build I am going to use this pan:
My question is --- should I use a cranksraper or a windage tray as well? How much do these actually help if it is a 95% street car???
I hear you can get a few more HP... but really, does it make a difference for street / strip?
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Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm when warm.... I get maybe 5psi at 750rpm idle when hot.
Since your start / cold pressure seems fine etc... and your running pressure seems close - I am going to bet on your guage not reading low pressures correctly, or that it is off by 5psi and the spring doesn't work right, or it needs calibration.
Maybe before you get too into the thing, buy an Oil Pressure test kit from Harbor freight that allows you to test on-block: http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html
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If it isn't ovrheating with the thermostat off, it sounds to me like either a thermostat issue, or a flow issue where the water-pump isn't circulating fast enough... maybe there is some debris in it?
I know you said you replaced the thermostat, but many people have had multiple issues, even with new ones... seems to be a poorly made part these days.
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Washed off some tree-gunk that gathered... took it for a spin out to the pumpkin patch & beach... enjoyed one of the last good cruising days left before the rains come.
Now it sits covered until the engine swap and storage at the end of october.
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Precisely why I am having my Mechanic and the guys at PER (http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/) handle this for me. I gave them the information I originally wrote on my intended uses and scenarios --- and they provided me the spec sheet I posted. It is a custom cut cam... however, to double-check what I am getting -- I am just curious on everyone else's thoughts on the provided spec.
Holley: Secondary Jet sizing
in Engine Tech
Posted
The LC-1 arrived today... now I just need to get my bung welded (that sounds dirty).