Greasy D

I though Duplicolor was an enamel? Can enamel go over urethane?

OK I know this is covered a bunch of times on the internet but I don't seem to see it on this site. I don't believe much I read on the rest of the net but this site hasn't steered me wrong yet. Here is the deal: Painted the whole Monte back in March or April, base/clear urethane. Hung all the panels and closed the gaps as tight as I could without contact. Well a few months down the road had her parked sideways on a grassy hill and opened the passenger door to hear a dreaded metallic groan. Sure enough on the leading edge of the door was a chip down to the primer a little bigger then a tic tack candy. Didn't think the body would have flexed that much. Here is my dilemma, I have plenty of base and primer to touch up but I used all of the clear on the final coat (looks bitchin). I called the paint shop and he said I'd need to buy a quart of the clear and activator (about $50). I only need about a 1/2 ounce. He also mentioned that "some guys" use an old trick of using a bit of clear nail polish. As he described the process I would lightly sand inside the chip, dab in a bit of primer and let dry for a day. Once dry I would dab in a bit of green base and let dry for several days in this cool weather. Then I dab in the nail polish and bring to a convex meniscus above the rest of the surface. Let dry for a few day then sand flush with a hard block and 2000 grit. Finish with a buffer. Should I trust this guy on the nail polish? I have about 1000 hours into this body alone. I'd hate for the nail polish to make the situation worse. But it would be nice to save the $50 on the quart of clear that I don't need 98% of. These guys are a fairly reputable shop but that's the thing, they sell paint, they are not painters. This is the brand of clear if it helps: http://highteckproducts.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=60769 (not recommended unless you really like color sanding) Thanks!

God I love this forum. Thanks guys I just fixed this age old issue. Wish I checked here first before dumping all that grease into the tracks.

I'm really hoping that the hinges don't need to be replaced. I'm super over budget on this project. Budget?! Hahahaha!

Hey guys! I'm test fitting all the panels to get them into alignment before shooting the car. The doors are on the money, fender gaps to the doors and cowl are right on. I'm having a bit of a weird issue with the hood though. I have it sitting flush in the front and back, the gaps side to side are perfect. Closed it looks right on. But when I open the hood the entire thing shifts to the passenger side and scrapes the fender. I need to find the fix for this and so far I have not been able to find search results for this adjustment. Thanks!

Thanks guys! I have 3 oil filled radiators set up to turn on at 6 tomorrow morning. Once I get in at 9 or so I'll run the propane jet heater to get the metal the rest of the way up to temp. It looks like it will be 40 by mid day outside so 60 should not be hard to achieve inside. I'll kill the propane to spray then turn it back on after the fumes clear. Should be good to go.

Happy New Year! It's been a while since I have been on here but you guys have never failed me in the past. I hope I am not re posting a subject that has been beaten to death in another post but my search skills on here have not turned up much (user error?) The body work on the 72 is done. Finally! All rust has been cut out and replaced with fresh steel. All panels have been massaged straight and hung properly. I have a coat of epoxy and a coat of urethane high build which has been blocked with a guide coat and finished with a bit of body putty. It's time for another coat of urethane and more blocking to follow. Unfortunately the temps have dropped down to 20-30 here in RI. Using a propane jet heater and two electric radiators I can get the temp up in the garage to about 60. Obviously I wouldn't be able to leave the jet heater on while spraying or for any reasonable time afterward. The radiators should be able to hold the room to at least 45-55 for several hours though. My question, is it too cold to prime? I have bare metal in a few spots from break through when blocking, I'd like to get these covered and get on to the next blocking. I also need to get this car out of the garage by 2/1. To do that I need at least all priming done and the jambs painted. Final painting will be done in a warmer month. I'm sure plenty of you have encountered worse situations and I hoping for some advice. Thanks!

Gas cap did nothing. Can't get the car to make the noise while I'm outside of it, even though it did it at every stop light during the drive.

It's been a few weeks but I'm just getting around to working on the car again. Replaced the diff fluid and the U joints and it is still making the sounds. I was able to take it for a long ride today to get a better idea of what I'm hearing. It is kind of a rolling groan and a squeak. I don't hear it for the first mile or so, then it does it under load and right after I get off the gas. Bumps accentuate it but it does not do it while coasting down hill bumps or not. it get worse the longer I drive. Funny though more than once today it was doing it while stopped at a light. Possible gas tank vent issue? It still has the charcoal can hooked up. I'm kind of lost but the sound has definitely gotten worse since i have put a few miles on it. Going to buy a new gas cap now.

No just the base set up. Wondering about the drive shaft being installed 180 off. I have some speed dependent vibrations. I'll post up when I get it figured out.

Brakes look and work tip top. Changed the oil in the rear and it still looks brand new in there. Same sound came back after about 5 minutes of driving. I'm thinking just a U joint is making all that racket. The good news is that I found out I have a 12 bolt! Surprising considering it's only a 350 car.

The brakes were rubbing on the drum the last time I drove it to the point were they actually started smoking. When I had replaced everything inside the drums I over tightened the star wheel. I haven't driven it again since loosening them up. Hadn't thought the sound correlated with the brakes as it made the same sound before rebuilding them. I'll take a look at the rust factor. Thanks again.

I've got a noise coming from the rear of the car that sounds like rolling an empty metal drum across a cement floor, just not as loud. It only does it while moving after about a mile or so of driving. I'm assuming it is due to a slow pinion seal leak and no fluid in the rear. I intend to replace what is left of the fluid in the morning. Pinion will have to wait until I can get the car to my house (been sitting at my parents place for 10 years). Before I crack it open is there anything else i should be looking for that might be causing this noise? Thanks!