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Blue502

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Posts posted by Blue502

  1. Has anyone got a pic of the Corvette pan from the side or a measurement of how deep the pan is?I like to see how it compares to my crate 502 pan.I was told mine was a truck pan.It clears everthing except the ground.;)Does the Vette pan hang this low?

     

    MCunderside018_zps5140ad98.jpg

  2. I wish I knew how to post pics.I have a shot of my 72 with huge 3 1/2" pipes coming out right under my license plate.It's hilarious.They look like flame throwers.The previous owner had them done that way.I now have the pipes exiting right out the corners at the back.A local exhaust shop got the tailpipes from a school bus and they fit almost as if they were made for the Monte.

  3. I wouldn't count on anything coming loose.Give it your best effort,no matter how long it takes.I would give each bolt a good wack with a hammer.Next I would cut the head of each bolt and remove the manifold.Use penetrating oil on the thread/head area and let it soak overnight.Heat the stud red hot and also the area around the stud at the head.Take a water soaked rag and cool the stud.This causes the stud to retract and brakes the bond with the rust.Use 2 vice grips on the stud and try a back and forth motion to get it started.

    Good luck.

  4. Hey Darren.

    Do you have a crossover pipe?

     

    Hey Ian, Unfortunatly I ended up with a standard drone from putting on the 2 1/2" exhaust on the chevelle with the American thunder mufflers, but when I did add the resonators 2 months later they didnt soften the drone or make it louder at all if that helps.... I just shouldnt have gone with the american thunder mufflers.....lol...But at idle and low rpm I now have that exact BB rumble that I had hunted for for years and finally have it and is awesome...

     

    Darren,

  5. I hear ya.Back when I was younger,I would drive around with skinnies,no sway bar and 90/10 shocks.It was very exciting on the off ramps.I have an adjustable proportioning valve which really helps.Even at the track,locking up the rears at 130+ is very exciting/dangerous.

     

    skinny's can get real squirrelly on the street eek
  6. Mickey Thompson seems to like a 4" rim.It also allows you open to almost any size front skinnie they make.

    Thanks guys.

     

    I have a 27.5" tire that I run on mine at the track and occasionally on the street. They are mounted on 15 X 5.5" wheels with 3.5" of backspacing. Never had a problem with them and car sits fairly low...don't know the exact height off hand though.

     

    How skinny of a front wheel are you gonna go...if you plan on using them on the street I would not suggest a 3.5" wheel.

     

  7. X2

    I totally agree.I don't think anyone would tell you that you waisted the extra 4 or $5.I've heard some good things from racers on these guys.I like the online oil analysis.

     

    http://www.schaefferoil.com/

     

    While I can see the point of going with a cheapo filter...I'm thinking you would want to run a top of the line filter during break-in. In theory, that is when most of the debris would be created as the parts "wear in" to each other..... or i could just be out of my mind lol
  8. X2

    If you can't screw the fitting in at least 2 revolutions by hand, then the fitting in the trans is already cross threaded or your trans line is not lined up correctly.Never start a fitting with a wrench and not your fingers.I always do the top fitting first and I check both fittings to make sure they are good,while the trans is on the ground.If the trans brass fitting is good and you can't line up the cooling line,loosen or remove the line at the other end to give you some movement.If you still can't get it lined up you can cut the line where it is more accessible,away from the transmission.Then screw the trans end in first and add a coupler were you cut the line.Of course this method is a last resort.When you pull a trans it's always a good idea to clean around the fittings with some brake cleaner and a brass tooth brush.Were some goggles.A smal piece of dirt in the trans line can cause havock to the trans and it also helps when putting everything back together.Compressed air is also a good idea to clean this area up.

    Good luck.

     

    I would definitely redo it. It will leak. Had the same issue with mine (not wanting to start). Finally I pulled the fitting from the tranny and couldn't get 'em to thread in my hands. The fitting that came on my used tranny was junk. Unscrewed the fitting from my old junk tranny and screwed it into my new junk tranny and everything was good. That's a 3/8 flare fitting. No thread sealer should be required on the flare joint. However. you will want to put some on the threads to the tranny. Use a liquid sealer and start it about 1-2 threads back, to keep any from getting inside. Also, that fitting is probably a standard plumbing hardware piece. If there's a decent plumbing supply around, they can probably hook you up. Good luck!
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