jacob

gas shocks here they have a good ride quality not sure on using them with my new suspension i'll probably get some better quality ones in the future.

Nice seats I'm also going to have the raised up edges and custom covered.

That looks awesome!!!! cant wait to see it installed don't let a little snow stop ya from installing it stay warm.

Nice! What company did you get the cowl from and what height cowl did you do. And again very nice work that's going to look awesome

I have flow tech headers on my 350 they fit alright I had to beat on them some because of my angled plugs. if your using a regular starter you might have to file down the corner of it I took my first starter back and got a performance mini starter great clearance.

Would removing the inner rockers and braces need additional bracing or need to be on a frame jig would like to remove the inner rockers and braces and clean them up and weld them to the new floor and then install.

What would move if you were to take out the braces and inner rockers? I was thinking it would be best to get the braces and inner rockers welded to the new floor that way it will go in as a single piece thinking that would be easier to install and weld. And while I had the inner rockers off I could clean and por 15 inside the rockers.

What do I need to do to be able to remove the inner rockers and braces the reason I ask is that the outer rocker and inner rocker sandwich the floor pan. The braces are just about ready to come lose the 4 spot welds on each end are all thats holding the first two braces on. also im wanting to be able to weld the cleaned up braces and inner rocker to the floor pan and then weld it in as one piece floor bracing and inner rockers. I have taken a few measurements nothing has moved so far do I need to do more bracing or need a frame jig to to remove the braces and inner rockers?

Yeah I've used por 15 you have to be sure to degrease and use there metal prep or that por 15 won't stick unless you get it on your skin. Could you prime the under side of the car scuff it and then use por 15 and a uv protectant? That way if the uv gets chipped off or the por 15 gets scratched or what ever it has a long way to go before it can reach bare steel and you could do body color over the por15.

What primer do you recommend using on the under body I've heard of ppg DP90 epoxy primer being a good primer for the under body any opinions.

working on cutting out all the spot welds.

What primer and paint do you guys recomend I want to paint the under body the same color as the body. witch I have decided to do bluestone metallic it's a toyota highlander color and I just fell in love with it. I want it to be tough and look great I don't want it to chip or crack and more importantly no rust.

That sounds good to me I'll just have to save up for it that's the best part about doing this restoration is you can take your time and enjoy.

So just keep the TH 350 and go with the gear vendors setup ... Does having the gear vendors with overdrive for every gear make it a six speed if you have a TH 350.

So something like a 3:31 gear ratio or maybe a little lower?

If you use the spot weld cutter drill your pilot holes out first other wise it will do the run around on ya and don't break all your drill bits like I did so far 3 total so use the lube or you could do like I did steal one of my dads drill bits you could put the drill bit case back empty and he wouldn't notice

I have been thinking about changing out my 10 bolt 2:73 ratio peg leg rear end to a 12 bolt with posi traction. Should I buy a crate rear end or use my parts car 12 bolt rear end... could you put a posi traction carrier in a non posi rear end housing. its not something im looking to do right now but it would be nice to install every thing before the body goes back down. And what gear ratio do you suggest I plan on going to the drag strip some and driving on the street and I do have a TH 350 so that will probably have to be changed. its alright though I only payed $ 350 dollars for it and I can use it at a back up for the other Monte.

I bought 3 montes for the price of one I'm using the body off the best one on my cars chassis... Pretty much switching body's the new body had some rust in the top and floor where the other body I was going to use needed new quarters new trunk floor new top the outer wheel house rusted away from the quarter panels in places. I payed 1500 for another running driving car that I traded body's with and 2 incomplete parts cars witch I will be using one car to fix the top and the other has some nice trim parts.

I'm going to be sure its done right when my new vinyl top goes down primed, painted, scuffed and glued.

I couldn't find any real info either the cam card is pretty limited on info so heres the only other info I have. I tried to put it in the same format as the cam card. lobe ctrs valve lift cam lift INT. EXH. INT. EXH. INT EXH 106 110 .480 .480 .320 .320 I also found some info on the cylinder heads 64cc chamber- 198cc. 2.020 intake/ 1.600 exhaust - angled plug. the Monte had probably 250 HP before and no problem speeding on down the road I cant wait to drive it now.

If only GM could have taken the time to paint and seal the tops before putting the vinyl tops down it would have made a big difference in how much rust they have in 40 years. And people leaving them out under trees in front of a four car garage or behind a big carport.

notice the sunroof ahhh! more work.

got some more bracing done in this California weather got a nice breeze going ... feels like spring time at the beach. still have a few things im going to do before I feel comfortable enough to start cutting away.

yeah I have only had to wear pants a couple of times... its 55 degrees right now and supposed to be in the low 70s and sunny this weekend talk about rough winter conditions.

the cam is a engine tech ES186R .480 lift the intake and exhaust are both .288 it sounds great with the super 40 series flow masters.