1970MonteMotion

I plan on getting a nice pair of headers, and Flow Master stage 3 exhaust. Is my current 350 tranny not really so good? I planned to add a shift kit, and a 2400 stall exactly! You're right, I would look like mike with the red car, black top, minus the wheelie! LOL. I know what you meant though!

Appreciate it as always Mike. Couldn't find a price on trick flows site, and never thought to locate a dealer to find a quick price.

Thanks Mike. Any idea or guestimate of price?

Thanks!

Nice, I was looking to keep the motor original, block, and go from there. I know of a guy who builds in my area, but was hoping to find a kit that promised the HP, so I am not over charged, yet still have a quality build.

Anyone know of a site that offers high performance rebuild kits? Heads, intake, pistons, cam, rods, etc? I am looking to get about 450 hp out of my pretty much stock 1970 350/300 HP. I'd push for a bit more, but I would like to keep my A/C, as it does work!

Thanks for the advice, and nice color monte you have there

My car is in very good, working, mechanial condition. Everything works from A/C to wiper fluid. Be honest guys. Will building my factory engine up, decrease the value of the vehicle overall? In other words, should I pull my engine and tranny, and start with a crate motor, or can I mod my current one, and keep value?

In neutral, my car looks to idle just under 1,000 rpm. Not sure of the reading, but the rpms drop when in drive. Sorry for explaining it wrong the 1st time around.

You are very good help Mike. Thank you. I don't want my wheels coming off of the ground like yours, but I would enjoy a nice set up. The wife has limited my spending on it, but I would like to juice up the engine. Do they make certain bottom end and top end hi performance kits? I like to get another 100hp out of the 350 which is already 300hp. I didn't want to bore and stroke though. I don't have the specs on my intake, so thats why I was considering chainging it. Would it be ok? Or should I upgrade for maximum results?

My current carb is a spread bore. Holley 4 barrel, double pumper, high performance GM upgrade from Qjet. The intake is also a holley, but I don't believe it's hi-rise, although it's aluminum. Not sure if single or dual plane. Pic sort of sucks,but all I have. I ran the numbers on the carb, and to keep from replacing it, wanted to go with a matching intake, unless adapters aren't that bad overall. I was told my intake looks like an old street dominator before, but who knows?

I don't know if my questions are dumb, or if people just dont know, but out of 30 views, you would figure someone knows. If my carb is spread bore, does my intake have to be spread bore as well? Sounds logical.

I was unsure of what the carb size was, until I found out, it was an upgrade comp series back in the 1970 from the old Qjet. A little of what I found: Competition replacement for all Quadra-Jet carbs. on 1965-70 327, 350, 402 C.I.D. engs. Mechanical secondaries, spread bore, double pump, 650 c.f.m., non emission, divorced choke The carb works, and operates perfectly fine, but I am wondering if there are better choices for me. I really just want a cruise around town car, that could get up and go if need be. Stock 350/300hp, cam, headers, intake, small stall, shift kit. Nothing fancy. Also, if my carb is a spread bore, does that mean it won't work on square bore intake?

Lol, won't be adding nitrous. Will reconsider the stall size. Any suggestions?

Thanks amsterdam.

Hello. I have factory 300HP 350/ and factory 350 tranny. I am going to add headers, and it currently has 650 holley double pumper carb. For now, I only plan to add headers, stall, shift kit, cam and lifters, and intake. The car idles now just above 1,000 rpm. No more than 1,200 rpm. My aluminum intake will be functional somewhere around 1200-5500 rpm. The cam will most likely be a .489/.504 lift. Duration 268/276 with a rpm range of 1800-6500. Lunati Voodoo. My question is, would a 3,000 stall be too much? Would a 26 or 2800-3000 stall work better with this set up? I plan to change my rear end gears to 3.73. Does this set-up sound logical, or ? Also, my intake will be aluminum, possibly dual plane, definately hi rise. Let me know if another setup may do me more justice. I don't race, but wouldn't mind a daily driver that is worthy of making occasional track passes...

Hello. I have factory 300HP 350/ and factory 350 tranny. I am going to add headers, and it currently has 650 holley double pumper carb. For now, I only plan to add headers, stall, shift kit, cam and lifters, and intake. The car idles now just above 1,000 rpm. No more than 1,200 rpm. My aluminum intake will be functional somewhere around 1200-5500 rpm. The cam will most likely be a .489/.504 lift. Duration 268/276 with a rpm range of 1800-6500. Lunati Voodoo. My question is, would a 3,000 stall be too much? Would a 26 or 2800-3000 stall work better with this set up? I plan to change my rear end gears to 3.73. Does this set-up sound logical, or ?

Thanks again my friend. Now... to figure out which stall converter to go with... TBC

I'll take it to a tranny specialist tomorrow. That way I'll know for sure. I have plans to add shift kit and stall converter also, so why not? Thanks for all of the tips.

My 71 was awfully close in color from the factory. Had a darker brown vynal top though. I want to paint mine this color, especially if I can find the correct top color. Thanks for clarifying.

Off topic, what color is your car? Is it the factory color, and do you have a vynal top? The car has done it since I had it. Wasn't driving it much, and planned to sell it, but had a change of heart. I think it's the cable, because I had a closely related problem on my old 71 MOnte. Just can't remember what fixed it, but I believe it was the cable. Could I install new cable w/o dropping tranny? Also, I'll be adding a stall soon, and will get the tranny freshened up some.

Thanks Frazer. That is just it. You just described it, without describing it. When I stomp it in Drive, or 3rd so to speak, it does not shift back down to 2cnd. If I'm in 2cnd, it does not downshift back to 1st. It just stays in the gear it's in, and builds speed from th same gear, although it's more practical to be at a higher RPM to accelerate faster! Bingo. That being it said, is it safe to say it's still the passing gear cable?

Tried fooling with adjusting it, and got some slop out of it, but no luck. Dad mentioned a modular valve. However I wouldn't know where to look for one at, or tell if it's bad. Another guy suggested the vacuum may be gone from the detent cable, but couldn't say what would fix this problem. Gosh I hate troubleshooting things... Can't rest until I know what it is, and when it's fixed!

No carpet or carboard I can see hendering pedal. I will try what you are asking to see help determine the problem. I want to say if I'm at 40, and shift to 2cnd, she may spin the tires...lol. The car will move when you stomp it from a stand still. I know it will boogey in 2cnd at 40mph, then WOT. However, it's a mono toned sluggish sounding roar, and you never get that High pitch howl the 350/300hp sbc is known for. It doesn't Holler. Imagine these two senarios. 2 perfectly fine automobiles, engine and tranny wise. From stand still, WOT in.. 2007 Z06 CORVETTE - tires smoking, high rev sound, take off 1977 C20 VAN- Tires may squeel, low sound on take off, more a sluggish take off. I know my car can be the the Vett

I see this should have maybe been placed in the drivetrain section, so apologies. If the "detent" cable is the same as the "passing gear", "kick down cable", or throttle cable which runs to tranny, I may know where my problem is coming from. I noticed a small leak where the cable runs into the tranny. Maybe if it has o-ring and plastic piece, replace them, and the cable. Could this leak be an indicator that the cable is bad?