1970MonteMotion

The last issue with my monte sounded like my carb or my passing gear. When I stomp the gas, the car moves, but it doesn't make that big down shift rumble. It sounds or drives as if the back two barrels on the carb aren't opening up. I had a guy check, and he says they are, so scratch that. The only other thing I could think of was the passing gear cable. It looks to be functioning when you manually push throttle by carb, but it looks a lil loose. My dad tried adjusting it, but no luck. I am hoping a new cable could fix this, as I am eager to get to the motor/tranny/paint/body. My dad said it could be the modular valve, and another guy said it could be the vacuum on the down shift cable. Any pointers, tips, or help? Also, apologies if this was suppose to go in another section

Thanks. My dad and I dropped the tank, hooked up the new unit and slapped it back together. I now TRUELY know how much fuel I have! lol. Thanks to everyone.

Is it fairly easy to drop the tank and screw in the new unit? As long the tank is near empty?

^^^Thank you^^^

Does it need a new wire all together maybe? Bad ground? Common place to find ground? Trunk I suppose?

Thank you all

Thanks Murphy

Not sure if this goes here, but I'm in need of a sending unit that goes on the fuel tank. I need to know if the 70 model came with or without a return line. I want to say the 70's was pre all the new smog mumbo jumbo, so maybe it came factory w/o return. Anyone know for sure?

Do you think this model has a return on sending unit or no return?

I have a 1970 MC, factory 350/300HP, and T350 also from factory. I filled my car up and the needle went well past full. I drove it for a few days, and the needle never moved again. So now, I never know how much gas is in it and thats dangerous on these long country roads. Leads to pitch black, cold, long humps, lol. I figured it's the sending unit on the tank, but I'm just guessing. I called to order one, but I need to know if anyone with a similar model could tell me which sending unit I need? WITH RETURN, OR WITHOUT RETURN??? W/O IS CHEAPER, BUT I'M NOT SURE WHICH I HAVE. Also, should I look for something else first? Maybe the wires or a pick up? Anyone have experience with the gas needle doing this? Would appreciate all help. Thanks in advance

Thanks for the reply.

BUMP for a good question.

Ok, I was looking at the Weiand 8150 hi rise, dual plane, stealth series. The range is 1500 to 6700 RPM. Another one I spotted was the Weiand 7531 single plane, open plenum design. The range on it is 3000 - 8200 RPM, designed for 350's with rectangular port heads. Now I do plan to change the heads to Vortecs or better, and I want a stall also. My last engine was from 1971 corvette, and was an LT1. It had 327 heads, headers, big Lunati cam, and stall was 2800-3000. Not sure why it was set up that way, but seemed to work and mos def hauled butt. With my current engine, (factory 300hp) I am adding cam, headers, intake, new vacuum secondary carb, and maybe Vortec heads, but like to leave room to add, when I consider hopping up the bottom end. My stall converter will most likely be somewhere around 2200-3000, so should I get an intake that is going to be functional around these rpms? Am I suppose to know which stall to choose based on the intake, cam, vice versa? Which order? Really getting a little rattled by this...

Very good advice. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

Also, is Holley any better than Edelbrock or just really personal preference? I was looking at a an Edelbrock torquer II intake, for a fair asking price of $80 never mounted.

Thanks guys. I'm here to learn, and if a better set-up is available, I would like to upgrade. Moneyy isn't a real issue. I just want it done right. My dad said a vaccum secondary would be the way to go, so I will buy a new one this week sometime. I've been told 650 cfm is plenty of carb for my sb, so I guess that will do it on the carb. Should I replace the intake as well?

Please help i.d. this intake!!!

I'm noot sure if you can tell from the pictures, but the list numbers I grabbed from the carb read 6853-2316. I matched it up to what i think is, a model # 4165 which is the 650 CFM Four Barrel Street CarburetorPART #: 0-6210, I believe. It looks like the pic I dug up. Some features are, •Mechanical secondaries •Single feed fuel inlet •Divorced choke •Dual accelerator pumps •All emissions provisions •Designed as a emissions legal performance replacement for Q-jet on certain GM applications. I dont think the back two barrels are opening at w.o.t. The car moves, and downshifts (like my passing gear is working), but not like it should. I'm going to take to a garage where they know their carbs. Other than a rebuild kit, should I ask them to do anything else to it? I dont think it is a vaccum secondary and a guy told me to have them install a secondary metering block on your carb. He said this is a really good thing because it makes jetting the secondary carb a snap. Also, I took some pics of my aluminum Holley intake, but other than a firing order and the word "Holley" stamped on the front, I'm sure which model it is. Any suggestions, these pics may not help much, but may.

Thanks guys for all of your help, pointers, & advice. I know a few basics, but I would really like to learn this stuff. I'll pick up a few good books and slowly pick up on it. I'd like a good running sb, for Sunday cruises, yet still ready to hit the track on Saturday night. I'm starting with a factory turbo fire 350 with 300 hp. I like to end up somewhere around 375-400hp, but geared for everyday traffic.

Sounds like a sweet set-up. I would like a few more details on your set up. Like how much power (hp) do you believe you're getting? Also, what exactly is a dual plain low rise spread bore? Is your engine factory? As in, did it come in the car? I'm starting to see bigger isn't always better when it comes 350's...

Can you further explain why limited slip is a good thing? I figured 2 turning are better than 1?

The engine and tranny were overhauled in the mid 90's. Car hasn't had many miles on it since then, so I figure there would be no need to pull the engine. I would like a pair of the Vortec heads, and the headers haven't been chosen yet, so hopefully I wont have to fabricate to much if any, to get them to work together. Car currently has an aluminum Holley intake, but I'd have to pull the numbers to see which model. Are you saying my rear end being limited slip is a posi as in "good thing" or "actually positive traction"? The rear end hasn't been modified any so it's completely stock. I'll try to see if I can find out by running the numbers, or owner's manual. If I do decide to order the vortec heads, can I still get a pair of Hooker headers that would work with the new heads, without fabricating anything? I can change oil, but I'm no hot rodder....yet! lol.

Hello, I'm going to hop up my stock 350 a little bit. I was wondering if anyone had any tips, tricks, or insight, on getting more power? I just plan to get a nice carb, fat tube headers, nice cam, nothing major. Don't want to bore or stroke it, so cranks and all are out of the equation. What are some other things I should consider? It has limited slip rear, so I would like to add a posi as well. Also, I know that sswapping the heads to 327 double humps will add more compression, or was told, but what does this really do in general? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all of the insight guys. I really appreciate it.

Appreciate the reply, I'll consider the carb size, or reconsider rather.