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Posts posted by ss454-71
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Well I hate to throw this out there but I'm considering selling the convertible body and cassis once I finish the metal work in order to further my other projects. Anyone interested send me an email at jeffemad@yahoo.com. I really don't want to let it go so better get it before I change my mind.
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Do you have an idea what it will cost to have the hardware refinished?
In your pic, I see the little bracket that was bolted to the engine mount-to-frame bolts on the passenger side. Mine is broken. Do you know where I can get one? It's for the positive battery cable, isn't it?
Dan
I was quoted $85 for 10lbs but once I gathered everything up it was 20lbs so I figure with shipping it will be $200.
The bracket is for the battery cable. I have one that is similar on a '70 chassis. If it's any good I will send it to you. I will check it when I get home tonight.
Dan- just sent you a pm.
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Originally Posted By: ss454-71
That's a good idea because a lot of the hardware kits you buy are incomplete in many ways and have hardware you can't use
Rob
I just hope I get it all back from the plater.
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What a great find and such an interesting thread to follow..
How is the LS6 coming along??
No action on the convertible but lots on the '70 SS.
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Thanks for the pics, great job. I have a '71, just swapped out both bumpers, my bumper brackets were not cut, I don't know if there is a difference between years on the brackets though.
The 70 brackets are different from the 71-72. There are a lot of subtle changes between 70 and 71-72.
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Something I noticed about the rear outter bumper brackets. They are cut a bit crudely to clear the tail light extensions. At first I thought they were cut for clearance by someone during it's life but comparing them to another set I have off the '70 convertible project and I beleave it was a factory modification. Anyone else notice this on their '70?
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Here is another common issue with A body frames due to a mechanic improperly placing and lifting the car with a floor jack where the side rail isn't reinforced. Every car I've owned had this issue.
This before shot with a strait edge up against the bottom of the frame you can see what I mean.
Here are a couple of methods of straitening that have worked for me.
First way I used on the driver side was to use C clamps and a piece of square tube. The tube helps prevent over pulling the steel.
This method works well with the transmission crossmember holes. Used some 1/2" bar stock with a hole drilled in it and bolted it to one of the crossmember holes with a heavy washer to prevent distorting the hole. Then used a 3/4" piece of bar stock to transfer the load as I pressed down on the 1/2" bar stock. It worked well.
Here is an after shot.
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Before media blasting I'm going through the frame to make sure things are spot on. I measured square and it is within tolerances. I didn't find any cracks in the engine cradle that big blocks are prone to.
Found a couple tow slots that some tow truck driver grabbed on a bit too hard. I straitened out the hole but now need to add some weld then clean it up with the grinder and reshape the hole.
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Yes. My pic shows both styles. Date codes show both were on a '70. Also, both came from Van Nuys.
Dan
Do you have a sense as to the finish on the early version. It appears to be black paint or black oxide. The more common later version always appeared to be gold cad plated. Do you agree.
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I'm going to pull the frame on my 70, should be fun
Going to have some work done to it to strengthen the rear control arm mounts and have it sandblasted/ painted while it's out. I'm going to try to do it without pulling thew nose off by building a wooden structure to hold the hose. Anyone ever do this or try this?
This is how I went about it in '07 when I freshened up the chassis on the '71 SS. I set the body down on a spare frame on dollies.
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1970 Monte Carlo SS454 - Tripe Black - Barn Find
in Restorers
Posted
The hardware showed up from the plater. It appears none was lost and for the most part look like new. Almost time to reassemble the chassis.