Guest Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 ... I've been pretty busy over the holiday season, and while waiting for my grille to come via UPS, i sat down to talk with a very good friend of mine who used to own A/FX drag cars, and a Hemi Cuda. The topic at hand was what to do with the small block in the monte after i were to get tired of it. I said eventually I'd like to shove a 454 or bigger in the engine bay, where he popped in with recommendations of a 427 Tall deck motor his friend had in his 11 sec pick up truck (the motor is a 71 vintage 4bolt main, stock bore sizes) Anywho, reason the guy is selling the motor was because he wrecked his truck, and doesn't want the motor to go to waste and also wants to see it in something cool.... $130 is the asking price for the complete long block, which i can inspect even take to a machine shop and if it has any cracks i can get my money back. I went over to speed-o-motive and saw a few stroker kits for all kinds of displacements and figured 496-510 would be killer. Has anyone built a tall deck motor out of a production block like this? I have been given lots of answers from veteran strip guys who say to grab it while its cheap and build a very angry rat on a budget, considering i was given a 9 inch ford for free, and also located a very good condition Th400 for $50 bucks out of an Impala. maybe 11s or faster are on its way to the 72' in a short year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 You can do a "512" by boring the block to the limit of 4.375" and putting a 4.25" stroke crank in it. Headers may be a problem due to the 1/2" diff in height when using factory heads. Aftermarket heads with raised ports req custom headers. Don't fall into the oval port are better trap if you build this!! Ovals are good for some app's but not on anything over 470 cubes! not enough port volume. A 6.8" center to center rod will get you back close to the original 427 rod to stroke ratio. Which makes the engine rev better! This also allows for a lighter piston and better throttle response. Personally I would use a lite weight 4.25" crank like a scat, eagle rods and some good pistons. NOT TRW OR SPEED PRO!! way to heavy! Some SRP's would be fine. Get some 990 factory castings, still availble bare from GM also can be found used. As for cams If you don't want to adjust valves then go HYD, Don't waste your time and money on a HYD roller though, The lifters are very heavy and the Hyd mech makes it so you can't run high pressure springs to keep the lifters on the cam. In other words a hyd roller cam in a BB will "float" the mech in the lifter at about 4700 rpms. WASTE OF MONEY when you consider a good flat hyd cam will spin 6000! A small agressive solid roller would make the most overall power. No more up keep than a solid flat tappet cam a little more intial cost but the result is worth it in the seat of the pants. With correct cam and pump prem unleaded I have done these deals before and gotten 685-690 hp and 670-680 ftlbs before on 92 octane under 6500 rpm's!! The torque curve is killer so a stall and low gears isn't nec!! Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 You can do a "512" by boring the block to the limit of 4.375" and putting a 4.25" stroke crank in it. Headers may be a problem due to the 1/2" diff in height when using factory heads. Aftermarket heads with raised ports req custom headers. Don't fall into the oval port are better trap if you build this!! Ovals are good for some app's but not on anything over 470 cubes! not enough port volume. A 6.8" center to center rod will get you back close to the original 427 rod to stroke ratio. Which makes the engine rev better! This also allows for a lighter piston and better throttle response. Personally I would use a lite weight 4.25" crank like a scat, eagle rods and some good pistons. NOT TRW OR SPEED PRO!! way to heavy! Some SRP's would be fine. Get some 990 factory castings, still availble bare from GM also can be found used. As for cams If you don't want to adjust valves then go HYD, Don't waste your time and money on a HYD roller though, The lifters are very heavy and the Hyd mech makes it so you can't run high pressure springs to keep the lifters on the cam. In other words a hyd roller cam in a BB will "float" the mech in the lifter at about 4700 rpms. WASTE OF MONEY when you consider a good flat hyd cam will spin 6000! A small agressive solid roller would make the most overall power. No more up keep than a solid flat tappet cam a little more intial cost but the result is worth it in the seat of the pants. With correct cam and pump prem unleaded I have done these deals before and gotten 685-690 hp and 670-680 ftlbs before on 92 octane under 6500 rpm's!! The torque curve is killer so a stall and low gears isn't nec!! Don Thanks for the input RIce, i figured I'd have a problem seeing how tall deck motors require intake manifold spaces and diff headers, well that and I NEVER built a giant BB before... always been stuck in Small Block territory.. But as my brother in law said once "You ain't lived till you pull the throttle on a Big Block Chevy". Guess he's right. As for the factory 990 casting, i was leading towards Brodix, or dart, but seeing how i live in Southern California, i can possibly score a complete pair of 990 bb castings for much less then a set of brodix or dart heads. As for the rods, the same answers i got everywhere were "Eagle or nothing". I guess the main motivation behind a BB swap, was because i am tired of seeing monster BB's in subframed cars such as camaros and novas.... why let the motion go to waste in a car that isn't full framed? People are betting on my 72 pulling wheeles with that much power ..... I'll keep everyone posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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