John S

I will check them again but I replaced them three years ago. They may very well be bad, with the way things are made today they don't last like they used to. Usually I try to figure out the only thing that changed, and that is the banjo bolts. The old ones had the 5/8 hex head and the new ones I put on are the ones with a 7/16 hex head flange bolt. Both banjo bolts are 7/16 - 20. John S

Thanks I have the square one. Good to know if I replace with the Bendix type I will need the correct actuator rod also. Having a little brake issue now. Pedal feels "different", feels hard, how's that for specific. When I rebuilt the calipers and took it on first test ride I had maybe 20% front brakes. I believe maybe the piston, or ball in the proportioning valve may have shifted. I then learned that the brake light did not work at the proportioning valve switch. By loosening some brake lines and jamming the pedal hard I believe I reset it as the front end dives and feels better but when I hit the brakes hard they will not lock up, did the Fantomworks 3,2,1 hit the brakes hard test. I pressure bled brakes and I did use a wedge to push the "button" on the metering valve in when bleeding both manually and with the pressure bleeder. The last time I manually bled them I did not use the wedge for the metering valve, and they did bleed fine except it was slow on the first pump. I am leaning toward the booster but that seems to pass the tests that I read about to test it. Check valve is OK vacuum line to booster is not collapsed. I am thinking booster, master cyl., or proportioning valve. Or maybe metering valve. Eventually I will figure it out I usually do but if anybody has any ideas I'm listening. John S

Does someone have a picture of the correct master cylinder for a 1970 monte w/ PB. I have seen a couple of types one with a single bale and one with two. Which one is correct? Or are both types correct? John S

Hey Thomas not to keep beating a dead horse but I did use a depth mic the measure the recess where the thermostat sits in the manifold. There is a lot of corrosion and pitting there and it measures .040 left side and .034 rt side. A friend has an Edelbrock manifold and his measured .070. I'm sure that also has something to do with this issue. John S

I was able to find the same part number that came out of it put it in no problems. But while I was there I had the parts guy bring out two identical thermostats and I had one that I purchased the week before all three the same part number. I took my caliper and measured the flange thickness on one was .034 on the second one .044 and on the third .051. Then I measured the flange diameter of the thermostat two of them were 2.125 and one was 2.117. I personally don't think that says much for quality control. Oh well that's enough for this problem. John S

It has been thoroughly cleaned the gasket is the flat type. The problem I have is the thermostat does not sit flush with the manifold when installed. As I stated this is a simple job but every thermostat that I buy when installed in the groove it sits higher than the manifold I do not know if it's because of poor overseas quality but the one I had in there previously said made in USA . Unfortunately the part number is no good anymore I thought I was losing my mind over this until I let a couple of car buddies compare thermostats and they could see the difference One thing for sure if I continue to do the same thing over and over again I'm going to get the same result. Far too much BS involved in a simple job. John S

The third picture is the new one on the left and the one out of the car on the right. Fourth picture is the new premium on left and the new economy on the right. the last two show caliper measurements premium and economy NAPA thermostats. The first and second pictures you can visually see the difference. As I said previously this is something you do not consider and you don,t expect something like this until you crack a couple housing and investigate why. John S

When I get home and on my computer I have pictures of both thermostats with a caliper on them that way you can see the difference between them One I believe is .044 thick the other one is .066 thick

Correct but the problem I had was that the economy thermostat would fit fine the premium thermostat was thicker and of course when you tighten down the factory water outlet housing there is a gap between the housing and the intake that the gasket cannot make up so it cracks the housing.I prefer to stay away from the chrome ones with the O-ring they are very thin and cheaply made. The only difference I noticed from a premium thermostat from an economy thermostat was the thickness they are both made for a 1970 Monte Carlo 350 but one evidently does not fit correctly. When I pulled the housing off there was no compression on the gasket and I used a felpro 35062 gasket. Now I have an aftermarket aluminum housing that seems to be working but I'm using the economy thermostat not the premium . Parts made in China evidently are not made to the same standards as those made in the USA. John S

Has anyone had this problem before. Simple job R&R thermostat. The new thermostat has a thicker outer ring at the edge of thermostat. It is .022 thicker than the old one when I tightened the housing it cracked. I got a new GM housing and that one cracked too. That is when I compared the two thermostats and discovered the difference. I was using a torque wrench and only got to 15 ft lbs. Never had that happen before never even thought about checking. Both thermostats are NAPA brand premium. Anyone ever have this issue. Using a straight edge across the thermostat you can clearly see a larger gap between straight edge and manifold. Obvious why it cracked. John S

I had trigger finger release done on three fingers 15 months ago. I was awake they did local anesthesia, good results. John S

Thank you for the pictures you can clearly see the difference. Yes that is it. My standard column looks like your first picture. Have not bought a column yet, but there are more automatic tilt columns available than 4 speeds. It may work, I don't know for sure. If not I have a wire feed and a torch I'm confident I could make it work with some mild fabrication. John S

Thanks

Is the lever on a tilt column where the backdrive rod for an automatic trans, or reverse arm on a 4 spd connect, the same for auto or manual or are they different. I think they are different but not sure. John S

I'm sure everyone who has worked on their Montes have seen the scale that builds up inside of radiator and if in the radiator I' sure it is also in the heater core. I have read that a 50/50 mix of vinegar or less and water will remove it. Some articles state to rinse with a box of baking and water to neutralize some don't. Vinegar has a low acidic content. anyone heard of this or have another suggestion? John S

In reply to MC1 of 80 I think I've seen that car before. Go to google type in 1970 monte carlo with 4 speed for sale. There is a you tube video from 2011 for a 1971 monte with 402 4spd.It has New Jersey plates at that time It looks just like your car the only difference was in the video the engine had MT valve covers. I just saw your pictures and thought I would comment on that. I think it is the same car. In fact I referenced that video to make note of the position of the shifter in neutral when I installed a console in my 70 4spd. John S

I bought both Metro Moulded and Soff Seal. I used Soff Seal because it fit better. The Metro Moulded is noticeably thicker and required force to close trunk lid. I still have the Metro seal in my closet. John S

70 402 4 spd reason why? I had that car once. I bought it on December 23 1979 got stupid and sold it May of 1982. Wish I never had. I still know where it is, stored in a garage gathering dust. John S

To my knowledge no. My tach is even off at idle.

My factory tach is off also. It reads about 350 RPM higher at 65 MPH than another Sun tach I temporarily hooked up. I guess the factory gauges are close but can't be relied on as accurate. By the way I have the setup as yours 3.31 M20 4speed only mine is a small block. The tires I have are 235/70/15 28" tire height. John S

I don't want to add to the confusion but I have had excellent results with Soffseal great fit and seal. john S

https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator I have 235/70R15s on mine the 235 is almost 1/2 inch wider (.39) to be exact and a little over 1/2 inch taller (.56)and 1.76 inch more in circumference John S

Try this website http://www.wiringharness.com/ John S

Thank you

With that type of gasket is it put on dry or with sealant. I assume the blue lines are the sealing points that do not require sealant but let me know as I am planning on replacing mine also. The problem with sealant is many believe that if enough is good more is better and too much is just right. John S