monte0

Thanks for the link, very helpful. I'm going to have to call to get a little more info on it but I'm about a few weeks away from having the cash to get both the uppers and lowers.

I'm getting close to ordering my new front upper/lower control arms but had a question about running the tall ball joints vs. the stock height ones. I know the tall ones help with camber but is their any negative's to them? Do they work well with lower springs? Just want to get this right before hand

I've done a lot of reading on these style kits and have heard some negitives. For those who have installed these kits, is the ebrake setup hard to get right? And also I heard they tend not to wear great unless you get the caliper centered to the rotor.

Found out the rotor hat thickness is 1/4" fyi for those who have tight clearances

I've been wanting to do this for years now too. I've got a question for those who have already done this, how much thicker is the rotor flange then the drum flange? I'm worried about my rear tires not clearing my wheel wells as they only have a 1/4" till they hit.

Thanks! Next I've got to get the front end assembled so I can get the car on wheels again

Well rear axle is back in...now to tackle the front as I can afford it Don't mind the wheel wells, I haven't got to redoing them yet

In the past on troublesome systems like yours I've jabbed the pedal a few times quick and fast with the bleeder open to get things moving(and yes you will get air in the system but it sometimes makes things move again which is what you want). Then you bleed regular from their to get the air out and if not then tech 2 is the next option

Got to run a t-stat in it. Not running one will never allow the coolant to cool

looking good! I'm getting closer to doing the motor so if I have any questions mind if I pm you?

Got my axle reassembled with new gears and in the car.

I'm in the same place right now with picking out new front arms. I looked at the Ebay ones but heard to many stories about the china made arms having bad welds and cracking. What I found to be the best bang for your buck is the UMI front uppers/lowers. Their not cheap but not as bad as some others out their.

Getting the rear axle ready for the reinstall

Sent me ford 9" center section out for a quick gear swap and refresh..installed roto-joints on rear axle and touched up rear axle paint

Ordered a 3.89 gear set from Richmand for my 9" and a half rebuild kit. Dropping it off to my friend to get setup and hopefully it will be ready by monday next week

Yea if I had a lift it would have been waaaay easier then the way I did it. I did that years ago when I replaced the body mounts once.

Just trying to save a few dollars that's why I asked. One other question, I'm going to be running a ls2/4l80e when I'm done with the car. Should I go with the t350 kit or the t400 kit? I was leaning towards the t400 kit cause of the similarities to a 4l80e

If you look at the non stainless kits ^^

Yea I saw the stainless kits and regular kits. I was comparing a regular chevelle kit to a regular Monte kit of same year, trans and it was a $20 difference with the same hardware included. It's the right stuff company and I called tech and they said they had no idea why it's different. here's the links Monte Carlo http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsbcm02 Chevelle http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsbcc04

Not sure if this is the right section but I was looking at new e-brake cables at the Monte/ Chevelle ones and noticed there was a big price difference. You would think the kits are the same being Montes share a lot of stuff with them. Are the chevelle kits shorter or something?

I'm trying to get my target rpms at around 75-80mph to be no higher then 3000. And with my shorter 26" tires I'm going to need less gear then your using. As for the stall it's going to be more then likely around a 2400 with lockup.

Ok, my tire size is a 26" so I'd be a little higher on the rpm by not by much.

Plan on dropping a complete ls2/4l80e with factory pcm setup. I've got the tuning software to tune it so that's why I'm going that route.

What size height tires are you running, that makes a difference in final rpm. Around what rpm's do you see at 65mph?

Ok, I've got my mind set on exactly what motor and trans I'm going with when the cars done (ls2/4l80e). Currently I've got 3.25 gears in my ford 9" and I have 3.50's in stock I could swap out, but I'm wondering if maybe 3.70 gear would be a better choice for this combo? I'm planning on staying with a full lockup converter and the 275/50 15 tires. I'm going to be racing it some every weekend but do plan on doing some traveling with it more once it's done. My old t400 with 3.25's would run around 3000rpms at 65 which wasn't bad on the shorter tires