monte0

Actually, this was the cheapest place I found. Most were $900 and up. Did you notice that the tanks only 17gals vs. our stock tank which is 20gal?

Any of you guys ever run this tanks from Eckler's? Thinking of going this route and do you think the stock output of the electric pump will hold up to a stock LS2 for now? I figured if I need more pump later on down the road I can just upgrade it later. http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/chevelle-efi-converted-gas-tank-with-eec-and-3-vents-1970.html

What coil springs should I use for a LS2 and either the 4L80E or 6L80E trans? (haven't decided)

I've been running the 9" myself for a while and I love it. Only downfall is they take more HP to run. Looking good though!

sold the motor and trans, no road time this year....

Yep, drive train sold. Now just waiting to find the right replacement after some research.

Will do, thanks

Thanks, I'll pop over there and see what I can find.

Hey guys, haven't been on here in a while but I'm doing a complete change over from my old 454 gen 6 /T400 setup to a late model engine/trans setup. Guess my first question would be what place offers the best relocation brackets to mount a LS2 engine into the stock location? or where would be a good place to find info on LS2 swaps?

I didn't read all the posts, but what the status with the grill?

I've been thinking of replacing the seperator plate with a stocker, but someone mentioned to me that the guy that built it might of modified the front pump assembly too. I'd like to go with a higher stall but with my current gearing it wouldn't be ideal. Right now I've got a 2000 stall but that's rated for a light vehical. The company says with my car being as heavy as it is, I would be more around 2300-2400 stall.

yea, it does. Already backed it out a good amount. If I changed the separator plate between the valve body/trans. with a stock one, would that remove the current shift kit?

ttt

I've got a mildly built short tail turbo 400, exact specs I can't remember. I'm looking to tone down the shift harshness a bit. To give you guys a example how hard it shift's, when I hit 1-2nd gear the car more then chirps (and that's not even full throttle) and 2-3rd the car chirps both rear tires hard at 90mph at the track. Now the reason why I think their too hard is just recently I posted that I had too pull my center section apart because the locker broke some retaining clips. Now that issue's going to be repaired. Well when I was under their looking around making sure thing's were ok, I stumbled upon a weld ripping apart. It's the top cross bar that the upper rear control arms bolt too, where it welds to the main section of frame. The actual weld is cracked right down the middle. Now I'm pretty much guessing the harsh shifts over the years are the culprit. So what exactly could I do to the valve body to tone it down without getting into pulling the trans out?

Called Eaton and they said don't reinstall the clips, not needed. Looks like I'm going to do a gear change while I'm in their and a freshen up too.

I was told by the guy working on it, two retaining clips for the Locker broke. Everything else is ok

Pulled it apart and everything looks to be ok. The pinion seal is toast(and I'm sure the bearing is too), the ring gears look good visually (looks like it's just broken in) besides the backlash being loss. Axle bearing feel ok. Can't find a definite place the debris in my fluid is coming from. Could it be coming from the locker setup?? Also, is their supposed to be a lip seal in the axle tub along with the O-ring seal?

I had a 9" built for my monte a few years back before the repaint I had done. Just currently started driving it the last few weeks after finally getting it done and drivable. Noticed after a few days the rear was whining only at certain rpm's, so I checked the fluid (whith was full) and found the pinion seal leaking, along with the left axle seal leaking metallic gear fluid too. This got me worried since their only 6k on this rear. Pulled the center section/ axles out to find the fluid was pretty contaminated. Inspected the gears and theirs no visible damage or heavy wear. Their was a high amount of play though, in the lash of the gears. Also the seals in the tubes were chewed up a tad (guessing the debris in the fluid caused it). Axle bearings seemed ok. My question is what should I do and where is the metallic contamination coming from? Is the locker at fault? Specs. of the housing is 9" with all GM brackets and c-clip eliminators, 3.50 gears, detroit locker, nodular iron center with aluminum bearing casing.

Behind my current 454BB (about 450 hp), I had a built 350 trans. Had it in the car for about a month and ended up cracking the front hub when I was racing the car from 1st to 2nd. So I went with the 400 at the time because the cost of doing a 350 the way I needed was way too expensive. But I'm thinking of going back to the 350 because as Jared has pointed out the trans. is lighter and I like the ratios better on them too.Just not sure if I can build it to handle more then 450 hp.

How many of you guys succsesfully run a T350 trans. behind a big block pushing some resasonable high HP? I'm kinda missing the old t350's performance vs. my T400. (plus the 400's heavy too)

If you end up going with a higher stall, make sure you put a external cooler on since the increased stall speed will increase the temps. of the trans.

I'd say 9" too. I've had both and the 9" is a great rear. (Given I did build it a little more then the 12 bolt)If I remember right, it cost me about the same to build the 9" completely new then it would have to build a 12 bolt to the same strength.

I had a T350 behind my big block for about 2 months before it went on me. Ended up striping/cracking the spline on the cluch hub were the input shaft goes in. Love the T350's but they have limitations.

Thanks!

Any other idea's to fix this?