TheBMan

Fluidampr 6 1/4" fluid-filled harmonic balancer for small block Chevy. Part number 620101. Used for a few hundred miles before I went back to a stock balancer for restoration purposes. The line on the neck is not a groove, it's simply where the coating was worn off during use. Full description the Fluidampr website: https://fluidampr.com/chevy-small-block/ $250 including shipping in the continental U.S.

Guys, don't be afraid of Quadrajets. They're great street carbs for a variety of reasons including the small primaries which give excellent throttle response. Mine was setup by one of the masters, Ray Klemm out of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who has done this for me before. If you give him your engine specs, he'll build it so that it works great right out of the box. A knowledgeable builder like Ray is worth every penny. Even if you have a high performance application, a Quadrajet can be a great choice. Ray Klemm Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Es7646Ytf/ Also, the true Godfather of Quadrajets is a guy named Cliff Ruggles. He is also in Mount Vernon, Ohio. He has literally written a book on Quadrajets and is a walking encyclopedia. He trained Ray, in fact. Cliff doesn't do much rebuild work any longer but he sources his own parts and sells them online at his website, https://cliffshighperformance.com/. He has every jet, metering rod, float, gasket, etc and he knows what you need if you tell him your setup and carb number. Noteworthy: his accelerator pumps are made from a material that doesn't breakdown in ethanol based fuel, unlike anything else you buy in the aftermarket. DO NOT buy parts or "rebuilds" in the aftermarket. Almost all of it is junk.

Interesting setup. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-chevrolet-monte-carlo-31/

545 three speeds made in 1970. It looks like the build sheet says Strato, which I think is the swiveling bucket seats. One of the other experts around here will confirm that if it’s true.

Build sheet included. A 3-speed column shift with bucket seats isn't necessarily desirable for most, but definitely rare. https://www.facebook.com/share/15h77Nhq55/

Check any grounds that you disconnected or reconnected or possibly disturbed. These type of issues are almost always result from a poor ground someplace. Double check the ground strap from the headlight switch to the dash frame. A poor connection there will cause all sorts of gremlins.

Baltimore

My 1970 measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender/quarter trim: Rear: 25" Front: 27"

Call me crazy but when he shut it down, it sounded like the starter bendix coming to a stop. So the starter isn't disengaging?

My sister got me this calendar for Christmas. September's car is a 1970 Monte Carlo. How many issues and errors can you read/spot. Geezus.

Thanks Paul. I have the lead to the solenoid but it wasn't connected to anything because the previous owner had an Edelbrock carb on the car before I bought it. I have since put the numbers-correct Quadrajet back on the engine but I didn't bother with the solenoid because modern cars don't really need it. I didn't put one-and-one together until I figured out what the wire was for! Crappy gasoline in the 70s caused dieseling (at times) when shutting off the engine so the solenoid was used to completely close the throttle plates. Today's gasoline is much better so cars don't "run-on" like they once did. Side note... I'm about to put a solenoid back on and use it as a "idle-up" solenoid for my A/C. The solenoid will be off by default (opposite of when it's used as an idle stop) but when the A/C is turned on, I'll trigger the solenoid to bump the idle a bit.

This car is local to me. If anyone is interested, I can look at it. I'm curious about the California plates in Ohio. Maybe a flip? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1518246395560518

Thanks Joe! I found a couple of posts online from others who were trying to figure out what this wire was for in 1970 (Chevelle, which should be the same). I didn't find any definitive answer although one person suggested that it might be for the TCS, which I don't think is correct. As I mentioned, it's somewhat irrelevant because it wasn't in use on my car. But it does make sense that it would be for the idle stop solenoid because originally my car would have had one.

Just found this. If this diagram is correct, it looks like it's for the idle stop solenoid, which my car does not have (but would have had originally). There is a black/purple wire coming from the TCS relay on the firewall, which this diagram confirms. I wonder why this wire doesn't show in the factory manual. 🤷‍♂️

I'm replacing the engine harness on my '70. In the old harness and the new harness, there is a black wire with purple tracer. That wire has a push-on flat-blade connector but wasn't connected to anything. I don't see this wire in the wiring diagram. Anyone know what it's for? I'm not overly concerned about it because it was never connected on my car anyhow, but I'd like to know for general knowledge.

I agree. This is NOT a $61k car.

I second the throat punch idea.

WooHoo! Contgrats!

@jft69z Thanks for the call, Joe! Always good to talk to you. I appreciate the research and clarity on the 2bbl vs 4bbl parts difference!

1970 350ci small block. From the factory, did it use a 6" or 8" harmonic balancer? My Assembly Manual doesn't show the balancer, unless I'm missing it. I see the pulleys but not the balancer itself. I want to be sure I get the correct balancer and accompanying timing cover with timing marks tab. Does anyone know the correct size and perhaps have the part number? I would rather get an OE style cover with the timing tab welded on rather than a separate cover and tab. Thanks guys!

WooHoo! Great news!!! So happy for you!

Can't tell if it's a real 4-speed car but rare and interesting if it is. https://www.facebook.com/share/G1VBneSGf4KYUuWB/?mibextid=79PoIi

I wondered the same thing.

I think your options are pretty limited. Roll the lip of the rear quarter, raise the back with air shocks as Dennis suggested, or change your wheels to something either narrower or with more backspace. It's easy to find Chevy Rally wheels with more backspace but it will likely be more challenging to match your wheels with more backspace. I would roll the lip if you decide to go that route. If you trim it, you will end up with exposed metal, which will rust. You can buy a roller online fairly inexpensive, I believe. Or take it to a body shop. I had the same problem and changed to 5" backspace wheels to cure the issue. The wheels are still 8" wide but they sit back into the wheel well .5" further - not even noticeable to the naked eye. Good luck!

Classic vehicles in Ohio (25+ years) have a one-time "Historical Vehicle" plate registration fee of $6 (not a typo) and the registration is good forever; no renewal necessary. Also, you can legally use a year-correct license plate in place of the standard Historical Vehicle plate as long as you take the replacement plate to the Deputy Registrar so they can scan it and document it. You are required to keep your Historical plate in the car.