TheBMan

Check out the interesting options on this '71 on Facebook Marketplace. I think it would make a great project car. This car is about 30 minutes from me if anyone wants me to look at it for them. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2264997950512607/

I purchased an A/C kit from Classic Auto Air but I wasn't happy with the appearance of the HVAC control unit faceplate; it looked too modern. I wanted something that was more era-appropriate for my 1970 so I made some changes. First, I measured the faceplate and control slots from all directions. I then made a template in Adobe Illustrator and created the artwork that would go over top of the original CAA faceplate. I had them professionally printed and I cut the slots using an Exacto knife and straight edge. Next, I asked a buddy of mine who has a laser cutting machine to use those measurements to cut a piece of thin acrylic plastic to go over top of the new faceplate artwork. I secured it with a very thin strip of tape that will be hidden behind the dash trim when installed. I didn't like/want the black knobs that came with the CAA unit, so I bought new (reproduction) control knobs and drilled them for set screws. I pieced it all together and viola! Something that's much more appropriate for 1970. I don't think a casual observer will even notice. Attached are images of the original control unit/faceplate, the CAA unit before mods, the new artwork and clear faceplate cover and all pieced together.

Welcome! Looks like you have your work cut out for you! There is a wealth of knowledge here so feel free to light 'em up with your questions!

OPGI is awful. I try very, very hard to not buy from them whenever possible. They use shipping as a profit center, they're slow AF, and their customer service is horrible. Summit is fantastic; their customer support has never been anything short of amazing. Plus, for me, I live in Central Ohio so I can order from Summit late in the evening and still receive items the next day at no additional charge. Also, I live about 10 miles from the Jegs distribution center so that's helpful, too. I will-call stuff from Jegs regularly. They aren't quite as responsive as Summit but they do a good job.

Eh, it's plastic rather than the metal original but I suppose if you need a grill, it'll do. Finding or restoring an original metal grill will set you back at somewhere around $2k.

I would recommend testing all of your dash bulbs before you put the dash back together. You can do this by plugging in the large main connector to the cluster housing and then ground the metal case to the dash frame or some other known good ground. Turn your lights on. Look to make sure all of the bulbs are illuminated. I found that some of mine needed the connection "tweaked". The metal tangs on the back of the bulb socket often need bent a little bit to ensure a good connection the printed circuit board. Check it before to make sure or you'll be taking the dash back apart when you discover some of your lights aren't lit up.

The car looks legit and solid. https://www.facebook.com/share/Yj7fDH3PcJoCpxgu/?mibextid=79PoIi

Yes 👍 it says it has a Clifford alarm.

This car has some issues, it will be interesting to see the comments and how the auction plays out. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-chevrolet-monte-carlo-28/

Distilled water is stripped of minerals during distillation and, as a result, the metals in your engine and cooling system will be siphoned back into the water leaving your metals vulnerable and possibly weakened. This doesn't happen overnight but it definitely happens. The same is the reason why it's bad for you to drink distilled water; it sucks the minerals out of your body. I didn't read anything from anyone about using pre-mixed antifeeze. I use the pre-mixed antifreeze from NAPA.

Those houndstooth bucket seats are awesome!

I agree with @MC1of80 and @cbolt, sounds like valve stem seals or guides. Rings would smoke continuously. A wet/dry compression test will tell you a lot.

Yes, thank you for pointing out the lack of capacity. Also, I read stories about the shuttering of power plants. Shameful.

Adding on to @EVC's thought "car can't be tracked without my knowledge and approval" is this: Consider if someone is struggling financially and they are late on a payment. The car could be immobilized remotely. Or worse, if they get too far behind on their payments, the car could be made to drive itself to a repo lot. I'm not a fan of the remote access and control of the vehicle. It's great for over-the-air software updates but beyond that, it makes me nervous.

I think the transition to electric cars is inevitable but "they" are trying to make it happen too fast. Consider an infrastructure that isn't mature yet (not enough charging stations), technology that works well under ideal conditions and poorly under less-than-ideal conditions (poor charging in low temps, reduced range in cold weather, insanely poor range for electric pickup trucks that are towing, etc). There are ~250 million cars registered in the United States; it will take time to wane those people off of gas and into electric. The technology WILL get better, but it will take time - far more than the 10 or so years they are pushing.

I agree with Joe, it's not a good idea to use a larger amp fuse, it's possible that you will overload the circuit and melt wire(s). Or worse, cause a fire. I too am confused by the electric hydraulic jack comment so maybe some clarification about that would be helpful but no matter what, it sounds like something that shouldn't be tapping into that circuit. 4 amps is a very, very low amperage circuit, I'm sure it can't handle anything in addition to the instrument lamps it was designed for.

Welcome! Great Monte! Lots of big brains in this group who are more than happy to help!

I'll let you guys critique this $102k Monte Carlo. 😝 Go! https://www.racingjunk.com/chevy/184467253/1971-chevrolet-monte-carlo.html

Sold for $62,700. 💪

It makes me happy to see that this sold for $38,500. The price/value of our Monte Carlo's is rising. 💪 👍

Quick update: To satisfy my curiosity, I purchased some of the 8.75" straps found on eBay. Indeed, they are too long and also don't fit snugly into the 1/4" mounting hole. Overall low quality look and feel as well; jagged edges and whatnot.

Ha! Now I remember this car on BaT! If you look at the comments, I commented on the handwritten build sheet notes that said LS and the "6" was handwritten.

It's already been said but if you do it on your own, go slow and don't stand (or sit) in the path of the spring in case it comes out with force, which it can do even with the little bit of tension remaining once the lower control arm is lowered. I've done the job a couple of times. It's not fun but doable at home if you take your time and think it through. The guys here are great about answering questions so don't be afraid to reach out if you aren't sure about something.

Looks pretty decent but it's a big asking price for a car that needs love, even if it is an SS454. Would love to see the build sheet and body tag. Shame they changed the color.

Old school Cragar S/S are period correct and look nice. (Photo is not mine, found it online)