kc8oye

4,020 street weight with my FatAss in it. full tank of gas, spare and jack in the trunk..

your stall speed can be an issue with an o.d trans my 700r4 has a 2500 stall converter, and I run 2250 locked up in 4th, and around 2500 unlocked. it's even worse below 70mph because now I'm well below stall speed. it will also generate a lot of heat. if you are running 3.55's with out an o.d you probably won't have too much of an issue with this tho.

there is no throttle linkage to an LS engine.. it's Drive-by-Wire. unless you are goin with a carb.

PArts are available online, I'm not sure if a dealer stocks that stuff or not. This is Where I bought my replacement gears.. way cheaper prices ( I think the gears were used, but came to me in like-new condition) TCI wanted $25 EACH for the gears, I bought both gears from this place for $20. PLUS I ordered the plastic housing (I have a 700r4) and have to have a special housing for certain gear combinations.

That couch may have failed to yield... but my monte demanded, and TOOK right of way.. LOL

you will need to pull that one bolt (Be ready for it to break) and see what happened.. there is a nylon gear on the output shaft, and one in the housing. either the square drive in the gear stripped out, or it ate the teeth off a gear.

lol sam

you have no idea how angry I was jake... that couch did some damage to my poor monte! front bumper, radiator grill and passenger side fender all took a beating because of it.

The owner of the couch is very lucky I didn't find him that afternoon. I would have shown him a whole new way to sit on a sofa.

that's going to depend a lot on how the 400 is built. if it doesn't make a lot of off-idle torque, it might not be a good idea to go much lower on the gears. I LOVE my 700r4 / 3.55:1 combo. awesome off the line grunt and cruises down the freeway NICELY.

lol it's ok davey :>

oh btw, I got the billet aluminum bracket that's holding the regulator from Summit racing. that's hwy I've got those goofy loops of hose on there.. the straight fittings wouldn't clear the bracket...

yeah, but the couch is the only piece I actually HIT!!!

one of the things I ran into was fuel feeding into the carb... my old holley 600 was a single feed and just wasn't up to the task (I know your 850 is dual) but if you are using one of those one-splits-into-2 lines, that _might_ be a source of trouble. I'm plannning on some major upgrades down the road, so when I put my new dual feed carb on, I used a holley pressure regulator mounted right next to the carb, the regulator has massive ports on it.. I want to say they are 1/2" NPT, but I might be wrong, I know they are HUGE This is the only pic I have of my regulator setup. look closely at the passenger side of the carb. so right now I just run the 3/8 line from the pump to the bottom fo the regulator, then then each port on the regulator feeds the two float bowls, for me right now, it's over kill, but eventually I will be feeding the reg with an-8 from the pump and then two -6's to the carb :> it's possible that your fuel lines AFTER the pump may not be up to the job.. just a thought.. gotta think about the whole system.

DavidTx: with a 700r4 and over drive 3.55 is really the lowest you want to go. any lower and you run into issues with the engine wanting to turn Too slow. I run 2250rpm @ 70mph with 3.55's and 27.01" tall rear tires. (255/60-15) (with the torque converter clutch on) (toggle switch) i can only JUST use o.d @ 55mph and definitely not locked. and i have a mild 350 that makes excellent off-idle torque.

JEEEEZE.. ya run over ONE couch in the middle of the freeway and you are branded for life......

valves are pretty easy.. do 'em like the book says. I prefer to go back after the engine has been warmed up, and re-set them with the engine running. in my own personal experience, I've had much better luck getting them 'correct' that way. I've wiped out 3 valve trains trying to set them cold with the engine off.. somehow I managed to get it right on this engine... after I over rev'd it to 7200 it was acting funny.. took it home.. re-lashed the valves with it running, and it's been purring like a kitten since (also added a 6000 rpm rev limiter) I took an old chrome valve cover and cut the center out so I can get to the rocker nuts w/o it spraying oil EVERYHWERE.. :>

Get the funnel boys.. I'm gonna go jump down his throat.. LOL

I took my basicly stock smallblock to 7200 rpm and didn't hurt anything.. i'd say you have issue..

as best I can tell mark, 3 tints levels. No tint medium tint dark tint the 4th tint is the same as one of the other 3, but made by a different manufacturer. after sorting through HUNDREDS of door glass pieces at leo's there are apparently only two o.e manufacturers for monte glass "LOF" (Libby-Owens Ford) and "PPG" LOF and PPG have two different #'s for as best I can tell by looking at them, the same tint.

if it's more of a light tapping, you may have chewed up a cam lobe and got a lifter tapping away. I'd suggest you start by re-lashing the valves and see if it goes away.

Tim, you might check with Leo.. he has a huge assortment of used door glass at VERY reasonable prices. (I *THINK* he get's $50 a piece, but don't hold me to that) and a little bit more if you want 'like new' pieces. make sure you have your window tint-codes handy when you call tho.

If you give leo a call, i'm sure he can set you up with some nice replacement qtr windows. and since they're used, they might not 'stand out' so badly that they are replacements.. make sure you have your tint codes handy tho so they do match! There will be an M-xx.x number in the PPG or LOF logo on the glass that is the tint code. could be like an M71 or M72 or an M22.5 and I can't remember the 4th one.

i've never heard of an adjustable power valve.

generally speaking, you want your powervalve to be just a little bit less then your vacuum at idle in gear (With an automatic) so if you idle at 16", you want the highest pv they make.. a 10.5