kc8oye

Read the thread guys. It's not a double pumper. It's a 3310 vac secondary.... looks to me like he said it's a double pumper? manmann: get a SIX-fifty Vacuum secondary, that's all your engine needs.

because ert, the double pumper forces gas into the motor whether it's ready for it or not.. evertime he opens the throttle, all 4 corners are spraying fuel in.. that's fine for a hard launch in a built car, but is gonna run like CRUD on the street. Holley isn't kidding when they say not to put double pumpers on automatics (w/o a lot of stall) or heavy cars. 750 is way to big for a stock engine. (with vac. secondaries this isn't a big deal, other then hurting drivability a bit) I tried a 750 on my mild 350 and it hauled the mail awesome, but was really lacking when just cruising.. 650 vacuum secondary will MORE then cover your needs. stay away from those 600's.. they are single feed and can cause you headaches down the road.

you absoultely do NOT Want that double pumper. With a stock engine, stock converter, stock gears.. that double pumper is just gonna hose gas down in the engine and make it run awful.

they ain't called "jesus clips" for nothin' ert!!!

by spacing the converter back however, you are preventing the nose of the converter from centering on the back of the crank correctly.

correct procedure for checking it... with the engine off make sure there is fluid on the stick (don't want to idle the engine if the trans is *DRY*) it doesn't matter where.. just so long as it's reading on the stick, but generally speaking should be well past the 'full' mark with the engine off.. start the engine.. you really should let the engine and trans get up to temp.. but if you are that low on fluid that it won't move, you don't want to idle any longer then you have too.... cycle the trans thru ALL of the gears.. pausing for a couple of seconds in each gear.. so that's Park, Rerverse, Nuetral, (Over Drive if you have it) L3 or D, L2, L1.. then back up to park, one gear at a time.. pausing in each gear again.. then with the engine STILL running at idle.. check the fluid level.

the only problem with that BBP... is now the nose of the converter can't center the converter on the crank's pilot bearing.. (been down that road too)

good luck ert.. finding an adapter to put a qjet on a holley manifold is nearly impossible.. I've tried that before.

MSD distributors use STAINLESS steel screws to hold the rotor on.. you MUST use locktite!! (ask me how I know)

most TBI units are horribly restrictive on air flow.. (holley's 4bbl tbi unit is probably much better) in fact, a few years back, holley used to sell their 4bbl tbi unit with a piggy back controller to upgrade stock gm 2bbl tbi's to theirs for better air flow.. guess it wasn't that popular. If you are going to go thru the cost and effort of EFI, i'd highly recomend you spend the money and get the SfI unit with a distributor-less ignition system. (coil pack, or coil-on-plug) MSD makes a really cool stand-alone coil pack conversion kit but it's really quite expensive. last time I priced it out, it would cost well over $1,000 for everything.

it won't rock much in park ert.. the problem is when it's in gear and there is 'reverse torque' from the drive train the driveshaft tries to turn one way, and the engine is going to try and turn the other way in the cradle. trust me, it WILL hit. it's also possible it's already hitting, and the engine isn't rocking because the fuel pump is crammed up against the frame and stopping it. I would seriously advise against running it like that.

how'd you photoshop the jackstands out of the picture red!? *snicker*

unless it's a 700r4.. then it's just about suicide on your back.. LOL (or a 4l80e)

that will hit when the engine torques over in the cradle. my air cleaner moves over almost 3 inches when I nail it from a stand still and it moves towards the passenger side...

i used an O.E-spec pump from the parts store.. it has no problem support my 300hp 350. (And it fits)

i'll have to check that out. I learned the hard lesson about data backups just last week when my laptop was stolen...

n.p I kept my th350c tho... one of these days when I get the motivation.. I'll find a new front pump for it. the trans still works ok.. it just slips really bad when the engine is below 2000 rpm. i drove the 150 miles round trip to one of leo's mini-meets with it like that so as long as I was turning more then 2000 rpm it wasn't terrible. (thankfully i had my 3.55 gears then so doing more then 2k was only an issue from a stand still

i wish I could find the pics of my fuel pressure setup. I have a bracket mounted to the passenger side of my carb that holds my holley pressure regulator (dual outlet to feed my dual-feed carb) i have a steel line that comes up from the fuel pump to just behind the alternator where I switch to rubber to couple it to the inlet on the fuel filter. (going to replace the whole thing with -8 line eventually) the fuel filter is actully a 1/2" npt thread IIRC. (basicly -8) but the filter is annodized alluminum with a replaceable paper element. then I have a couple of brass pipe thread fittings to turn the 90^ into the bottom of the FPR. the filter just sorta hangs in free air next to the valve cover over the top of the intake...

i had a similar problem.. I didn't slide the converter up against the flex plate firmly, and when I tightened the converter bolts, it warped the flex plate and then when I started the engine, it was hammering the torque converter in and out.. it demolished my front pump... (which is what started the 700r4 project)

my local track never looked that close. and I had mine on the suction side not the pressure side..

allan. yah. in a commerical enviroment I can see that.. we used to do the same thing when I worked IT at the local college. we had boot disks and batch files all we had to do was bring the machine back to the lab, plug it into our 100mb switch (at the time the rest of the campus was 10mbit hubs) pop the disk in, turn it on.. and walk away.. in an hour or so, a fresh hard drive image was loaded up, and we got to go listen to the user whine about all their info they lost because they couldn't follow directions and save their files on the network drives instead of their local harddrives in the case of my computer, it was my dads, it already had the virus on it when I got it after he passed away.. and not knowing what all was on the hard drive, wiping it wasn't an option.

I disagree.. I've cleaned up several computers that have had virus infections, and all of them (including the one I'm using now) have lived long and happy lives once I re-educated the owners about proper virus protection..

is the torque converter firmly up against the flex plate?

i.c. that makes more sense then everybody having issues with them not venting correctly!!!

my 26-10-15's are M/T ET-Drag's