kc8oye

I didn't see that one. but the problem isn't pole vaulting.. a broken drive shaft can come thru the floor like a propeller thru a piece of paper and injure the driver.. (Same reason we have SFI Flex plates)... our local track started requiring rear loops for cars that trap faster then a certain speed cuz a guy broke a rear ujoint, and the drive shaft removed the entire rear seat floor pan for him.

i actully modified my loop a little bit too. instead of both halves of the loop bolting in, which made it hang rather low.. I cut most of the ears off the top half of the loop, and welded the top and bottom halves together. then mounted the bottom half of the loop into the top half's holes.. which pushed it right up into the floor pan so it doesn't hang low under the car this way I can still unbolt the loop and take it out if I want to... i just have to drop the driveshaft as well

I used a universal loop.. and welded it to the front floor brace (Where the front of the front bench bolts down) didn't pull the carpet and had no issues. Remember, NHRA rules require it be within 6" of the front u-joint! having my rather long 700r4 put that floor brace in exactly the right spot for me my front u-joint is 6" further back then it was when I had a TH350.. here is one pic of it http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/transmission/driveshaft_loop.jpg forgive the ugly welds... they AREN'T mine! http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/transmission/driveshaftloopmount.jpg

ahhh the fun part of the restoration!!! bolting on the toys!

let us know when you get them on.. and how it drives!

surfing the site from mulitple computers can cause all kinds of headaches with the cookies.. I've noticed when I use only one computer for a while, I dont' have any trouble. .then soon as I use a different one.. all heck breaks loose.

the problem is with the servers the site is on.. not individual connections. i've also seen a big problem with Comcast high speed cable and their DNS servers not responding... a lot of times when the site is being a pain.. I switch to using numerical i.p's (xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx) instead of wwww.yadada.com and sometimes it will clear the problem up.. sometimes not.

The problem with superchargers is the horrible parasitic losses they generate when you aren't 'on boost' they can easily trash your 'cruising' mileage by 20-30% Turbo's have negligble effect on the engine as a whole when they aren't being used.. and only require about 6hp worth of WASTED heat from the exhaust to spin when making boost.

Leo sells them reconditioned too.

you need to know ahead of time, before the turbo. because it makes a huge difference. with a VE of 92% I only need 8psi to make 600hp with a VE of 75% I need 14psi to make 600hp. a turbo that can provide 66lbs/min of air @ 8psi might not be able to do it at 14...

i have a really good book on the subject.. it's a necessity. i'm still going to be building a lot of this on a wing and a prayer because there are just too many variables I can't account for (like the actual VE of my engine)

This is the compressor map it refers too. Remember, I'm planning Twins, so you halve the air requirements.. 33lbs/min @ 1.78 pressureratio. T3/T4 Hybrid if you follow allong the bottom to about 33, and then up the left side to 1.8 (close enough to 1.78) you'll see that I'm to the right side of that large center island. that makes this turbo just a hair too small. it would work, but it would be on the ragged edge, and would leave me no room to grow, and would problaby REQUIRE an intercooler even at my low 8psi.. so we look at the next bigger turbo.. that brings us to here now I'm on the left side of the center island which says the turbo a little too big.. but that's ok. Im not against increasing the boost just a little bit to put the turbo into it's most effecient region. (ideally, you want to be right in the middle of that large center island)

I wasnt' sure if this was modifers for engine material.. so it went here As you guys know, I'm workin on a twin turbo setup for my monte.. and I just discovered my note taking skills are lacking..so I had to go back and re-do all of the math involved in selcting what turbo(s) work... so I figured I'd share the math with you just in case someone might be interested.. What you need to know: Engine Displacement: 355 cid Target HP (flywheel): 600hp Maximum Engine RPM: 6500 rpm Ambient Temp and Baro: -10F to +90F ? Baro: nfc What you need to estimate: Engine VE: No idea. on the low side I would think. Intake Manifold temp: (130F estimate) no idea right now, can be measured easily tho. BSFC: Brake specific fuel consumption Again, no clue. 1) Start by Estimating Peak compressor airflow required to achieve the h.p goal. AF = HP x AFR x BSFC/60 AF = Actual mass airflow in lbs/min HP = Target HP AFR = Air/fuel ratio BSFC = Brake specific fuel consumption/hour (divide by 60 for minutes) AF = 600 x 12 x (0.55/60) = 66lbs / min 2) Calculate required manifold pressure to meet the h.p or target airflow. MAPreq = (Wa x R x (460 + Tm))/(VE x (N/2) x Vd) MAPreq = Manifold absolute pressure (psia) required to meet the h.p target. Wa - Airflow (actual) (lbs/min) R = Gas Constant = 639.6 Tm = Intake Manifold Temp VE = Volumetric Efficiency. N = Engine Speed (rpm) Vd = Engine Displacementin Cubic Inches. (CID = Liters x 61.02) Wa = 66lbs/min (From above) Tm = 130F (from above) VE = 92% at peak power = .92 N = 6500 (from Above) Vd = 355cid (From ABove) MAPr = (66 x 639.6 X (460 + 130))/(.92 X (6500/2) x 355) = (66 X 639.6 X 590) / (.92 X 3250 X 355) = 24906024 / 1061450 = 23.46psia Boost = Mapr - 14.7psia (Sea level) = 8.76 psig 3) Correct for pressure drop between compressor and engine. P2c = Map + Ploss P2c = Compressor discharge pressure (psia) MAP = Manifold absolute pressure (psia) Ploss = pressure loss between compressor and manifold. Ploss estimated at 1psi with no intercooler p2c = 23.46 + 1 = 24.46 psia 4) Correct for Pressure drop upstream of the compressor inlet. (typical drop thru air cleaner might be 1psi) P1c = Pamb - Ploss P1c - 14.7 - 1 = 13.7psia 5) calculate required pressure ratio (IIc) thru the compressor IIc = P2c / P1c IIc = Pressure ratio P2c = ABS compressor discharge pressure (psia) p1c = Compressor inlet pressure IIC = 24.46 / 13.7psia = 1.785 6) plot the target maximum MAF and maximum pressure ratio point on cadidate compressor maps to see if the compressor can meet this "worst case" requirement.

ROMO. check the post.. i edited it.. this isn't the greatest picture, but it's one with my new 650cfm 4150 that has the holley relocation bracket on it. http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/Engine/DSC02406.JPG

There are two brackets you need.. let me look the part #'s up for you. (I use both of them on my car) this is an older picture, so I don't have the holley brand relocation bracket on the carb itself. but the bracket holding the two cables is the holley piece.. http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/Engine/aircleanerbase.jpg this is the first bracket you need, this is REALLY CRITICAL one to have.. this changes the geometry of the kickdown bracket so that it's correct for the 700r4.. http://www.holley.com/20-121.asp and this bracket is the one i have in the picture above. http://www.holley.com/20-95.asp

that switch is a pressure switch to tell something that the transmission is in 3rd gear... often used for computer controlled Torque converter clutches.

teh filler necks are different between EEC and NON-EEC tanks.. putting a vented cap on a non-vented tank could easily create a fuel leak between the cap and neck... he said it only happens with more then 1/2 tank of gas.. that leads me to think it's a filler cap problem.

jim yes you can.. but the vented and not vented caps are not interchangeable... at least not between years. when I traded leo my original 1972 EEC tank for a 1970 non-vented tank, I had to buy a new gas cap, as the 72 cap didn't fit the 70 tank....

a 3 vent with EEC tank should have a NON vented cap.. in fact the caps aren't usually interchangeable.. which might explain why you are smelling gas...

TCS works like this.. there is a Third gear pressure switch on the transmission. This is used to activate the TCS relay and solonoid on the firewall.. to disable the vacuum signal to the ditributor until you are in 3rd gear, and/or the engine is fully warmed up.

it probably would have been easier to simply buy the cable-type speed sender for the 700r4 from a vender like Spedometer World your best bet for that connector is take a stroll thru your local junk yard with a pair of wire cutters and find one on another car. You can order weatherpack connectors from MSD (www.msdignition.com) but I'm sure they're not cheap.

i've noticed sitting in Leo's bucket seat monte there is a lot less leg room in a bucket seat car then there is in a bench car! i like my bench seat

i built my own 350.. it's basicly a stock build. Summit Racing cam (214/224 @ .050 .442/.465) , forged flat top pistons (9.75ish:1), stock crank and rods, exhaust only port matched heads, edelbrock performer RPM intake with a holley 650 dual feed vac. secondary carb and 1" spacer. and another 1" spacer between the air cleaner and carb. MSD 6AL ignition box with blasater 2 coil and MSD ProBillet dist. add to that a 700r4 over drive trans and 3.55:1 axle with a fried posi. so far, 14.234 @ 95.95mph is my best on 10x26 MT ET drags anything else I can help you with? lol (sorry my engine bay is such a mess in these pics)

robyn

Same here.